Starting out with a budget if thats possible. Thoughts?
#1
Instructor
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Starting out with a budget if thats possible. Thoughts?
OK I recentley attended one of those corporate auto X events out here by me. They had a CTSV and an M3 and a few other cars. I had a lot of fun and the bug bit me a bit. I want to start doing this with my car. I have always been following this a bit in the shadows but never really did anything about it. Seems that is about to change.
I have a 2002 Z06 that is mostly stock. I have done the cags and changed the shifter. I have a vararam and some other minor bolt on stuff. Has about 30K miles on it. Running P-Zero's on CCW505's.
I have read a lot on here. I understand all the safety pieces and the tools and other important things that need to be brought along. I also realize I do not know how to drive my car under racing conditions. Since I do have a budget that I will need to follow I have wound up with a couple questions that I would love some input on.
From what I have read changing out the brake fluid would need to be done before I take the car anywhere. I think my next step would be to get an upgraded set of brake pads. The other piece I am pretty sure about is getting some Blistein Sport shocks on the car.
The part I am struggling with right now is tires. I really dont want to trash the Pzeros. As I understand it this is going to be very hard on the tires. The few places I read about this people are saying stay with street tires. When I went and looked, pricing the racing slick tires appear to be cheaper than street tires. Why would I not want to put racing tires on my old wagon wheels? Would it not be cheaper and give me better performance to beat up the racing tires over street tires? Maybe I am looking in the wrong place and my pricing is off?
Besides the obvious of needing seat time and finding someone or someplace to learn from what else am I missing? I realize there is a bottomless pit of upgrades that can be done to my car. Right now I am just looking for what makes sense to get started.
Thank you in advance for any advice you can give.
Ted
I have a 2002 Z06 that is mostly stock. I have done the cags and changed the shifter. I have a vararam and some other minor bolt on stuff. Has about 30K miles on it. Running P-Zero's on CCW505's.
I have read a lot on here. I understand all the safety pieces and the tools and other important things that need to be brought along. I also realize I do not know how to drive my car under racing conditions. Since I do have a budget that I will need to follow I have wound up with a couple questions that I would love some input on.
From what I have read changing out the brake fluid would need to be done before I take the car anywhere. I think my next step would be to get an upgraded set of brake pads. The other piece I am pretty sure about is getting some Blistein Sport shocks on the car.
The part I am struggling with right now is tires. I really dont want to trash the Pzeros. As I understand it this is going to be very hard on the tires. The few places I read about this people are saying stay with street tires. When I went and looked, pricing the racing slick tires appear to be cheaper than street tires. Why would I not want to put racing tires on my old wagon wheels? Would it not be cheaper and give me better performance to beat up the racing tires over street tires? Maybe I am looking in the wrong place and my pricing is off?
Besides the obvious of needing seat time and finding someone or someplace to learn from what else am I missing? I realize there is a bottomless pit of upgrades that can be done to my car. Right now I am just looking for what makes sense to get started.
Thank you in advance for any advice you can give.
Ted
#2
Melting Slicks
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What are your goals?
Do you just want to do occasional track days or do you intend to compete W2W and actually race? The difference between the two are geometrical.
Track days: You can leave the car alone and have loads of fun with just minor upgrades such as brake fluid and pads. You could also spend a few thousand on a harness bar, better seat, and a dedicated set of track tires.
W2W: The only limit is the size of your bank account and the tolerance of your loved ones. This " hobby" is expensive. If you choose W2W, do yourself a big favor and buy a well sorted used race car. For about $30,000, you'll be saving yourself money and headaches.
Do you just want to do occasional track days or do you intend to compete W2W and actually race? The difference between the two are geometrical.
Track days: You can leave the car alone and have loads of fun with just minor upgrades such as brake fluid and pads. You could also spend a few thousand on a harness bar, better seat, and a dedicated set of track tires.
W2W: The only limit is the size of your bank account and the tolerance of your loved ones. This " hobby" is expensive. If you choose W2W, do yourself a big favor and buy a well sorted used race car. For about $30,000, you'll be saving yourself money and headaches.
#4
Since it appears that you have only done an autox then the best money you can spend is on seat time. Your car is very cabable as is so just spend money on the driver. Find a track near you sign up and have fun.
#5
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So you dont think the things I asked about would help with the wear and tear on the car? My point of this is not as much to improve the cars performance as make it capable. I know the car can do way more than I can handle right now. My point behind this is to save my Pzero's and not have something get screwed up.
#6
Safety Car
1. Write down all expenses on a piece of paper and sum them.
2. Double that number.
3. Then multiply by 1.25.
4. Crumple paper up.
5. Burn crumpled paper.
6. Remind yourself never to do that again.
7. Have a beer.
2. Double that number.
3. Then multiply by 1.25.
4. Crumple paper up.
5. Burn crumpled paper.
6. Remind yourself never to do that again.
7. Have a beer.
#7
Suckin' gas, haulin' ass.
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No kidding, it's 100% true. I figured I had 12k in my car. Then I added it up with my buddy one day. I stopped writing at 25k. It's almost finished, but I'll have 30k in it before I can call it done, and that doesn't even count a new motor that I will need eventually.
Then I commenced powerhousing beers.
#8
Le Mans Master
So you dont think the things I asked about would help with the wear and tear on the car? My point of this is not as much to improve the cars performance as make it capable. I know the car can do way more than I can handle right now. My point behind this is to save my Pzero's and not have something get screwed up.
-Flush brake fluid with ATE Type 200/Super Blue or equivalent
-Stock Z06 brake pads will be ok for your first few events
-If you don't want to tear up your nice expensive street tires and wheels, get a second set of wheels and put something like Kuhmo XS or similar inexpensive summer tires on them.
-Drive to the events
-Learn all you can
-Get as much seat time as you can
-Have fun and return home with the car in the same shape it left, minus some fuel, brake pads, and tire wear
I replied to your thread in the Great Lakes section but I'll put it here too... www.3BallsRacing.com We will be at GingerMan next weekend. If you can't get the car ready in time, come out and hang out for the day. We'll even give you a ride-along so you can get a feel for a real track day before you jump in head first. (And you will. )
#10
Melting Slicks
The part I am struggling with right now is tires. I really dont want to trash the Pzeros. As I understand it this is going to be very hard on the tires. The few places I read about this people are saying stay with street tires. When I went and looked, pricing the racing slick tires appear to be cheaper than street tires. Why would I not want to put racing tires on my old wagon wheels? Would it not be cheaper and give me better performance to beat up the racing tires over street tires? Maybe I am looking in the wrong place and my pricing is off?
Ted
Ted
Track tires won't last you as long as a durable street tire would so there is no savings there. I would suggest something treaded like an RA-1 or even a cheap extreme/ultra high performance summer tire.
The reality is that once you get into this you will churn through tires. Especially when you have stock suspension settings as the outside edge on the left front tire is being asked to do most of the work when you're running at clockwise tracks.
At first I would take it just like it sits with the exception of changing the brake fluid. This is what I would do if I were you once you have been a time or two to make sure you like it
Extra set of used stock speedline wheels with and RA-1 or NT-05 or something like that on them and you can drive to the track without issue - $2000
Brake pads - $500
Spare rotors - $300 (?)
Brake fluid - $50
Get the car aligned - $150
Seats - $2000 including install
Harness bar $600
Harnesses - $300
2010 SA Helmet - $300-$2000
Hans / R3 or some type of head neck restraint $800
If you purchase these new with the exception of the wheels and a cost effective helmet instead of one that's very expensive then you're at $7,000 and you will have an awesome time and be reasonably safe while you're doing it. Realize that almost 1/2 of this is spent on consumables so you will have to replace those parts fairly regularly.
As far as upgrades are concerned all you need to do is take a look at some of the videos Gary (SF) has posted in a basically stock C6Z06 on Toyo RA-1's and realize these cars don't need all that much to be really quick in capable hands. Your development as a driver will have the most meaning.
#11
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St. Jude Donor '08
To answer your tire question. Street tires give more warning before losing their grip than do racing tires. They probably also cost less in the long run because you get more use out of them. Race tires have higher grip because they have softer rubber compounds and are only good for so many heat cycles.
Also, FWIW most HPDE sponsors don't let newbies out with race tires or R-rated compounds until they prove themselves. At least the good ones.
Also agree with what other posters have said about the cost of this addiction.
If you are going to get into this I suggest you read the following thread by Zenak (Keith), if you have not already.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/auto...e-learned.html
Also, FWIW most HPDE sponsors don't let newbies out with race tires or R-rated compounds until they prove themselves. At least the good ones.
Also agree with what other posters have said about the cost of this addiction.
If you are going to get into this I suggest you read the following thread by Zenak (Keith), if you have not already.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/auto...e-learned.html
#12
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To answer your tire question. Street tires give more warning before losing their grip than do racing tires. They probably also cost less in the long run because you get more use out of them. Race tires have higher grip because they have softer rubber compounds and are only good for so many heat cycles.
Also, FWIW most HPDE sponsors don't let newbies out with race tires or R-rated compounds until they prove themselves. At least the good ones.
Also agree with what other posters have said about the cost of this addiction.
If you are going to get into this I suggest you read the following thread by Zenak (Keith), if you have not already.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/auto...e-learned.html
Also, FWIW most HPDE sponsors don't let newbies out with race tires or R-rated compounds until they prove themselves. At least the good ones.
Also agree with what other posters have said about the cost of this addiction.
If you are going to get into this I suggest you read the following thread by Zenak (Keith), if you have not already.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/auto...e-learned.html
Thanks again!
Ted
#13
Burning Brakes
My 2 cents:
- Do a few Auto X events first. No need to change anything, just show up and drive. It is magnitudes cheaper than track days.
- If you want to go out for an occasional track day I don't see a reason to worry about the tires at first. They will survive a few nooby track days without problems. Once you get your feet wet you can decide next step with regard to tires. If you do want a 2nd set of rims and tires, RA-1s and NT-05 are options but sort of pricey. You can get a higher treadwear, longer lasting tire that would only be ~1-2 sec per lap slower for a lot less, something like the Continental DW works pretty well
- Dot4 brake fluid is a good idea but new pads is debatable for first day or two, not strickly required if current pads have some meat on them. Up to you but there are no dual purpose pads and track pads are pricey.
- As others have stated - leave the car alone for now. After you've done several track days, then start thinking about shocks, etc.
- You'll need a helmet for sure.
- Do a few Auto X events first. No need to change anything, just show up and drive. It is magnitudes cheaper than track days.
- If you want to go out for an occasional track day I don't see a reason to worry about the tires at first. They will survive a few nooby track days without problems. Once you get your feet wet you can decide next step with regard to tires. If you do want a 2nd set of rims and tires, RA-1s and NT-05 are options but sort of pricey. You can get a higher treadwear, longer lasting tire that would only be ~1-2 sec per lap slower for a lot less, something like the Continental DW works pretty well
- Dot4 brake fluid is a good idea but new pads is debatable for first day or two, not strickly required if current pads have some meat on them. Up to you but there are no dual purpose pads and track pads are pricey.
- As others have stated - leave the car alone for now. After you've done several track days, then start thinking about shocks, etc.
- You'll need a helmet for sure.
#14
Drifting
I just started myself, and I will be up at Blackhawk Farms in South Beloit, IL on July 14th for a High Speed Autocross (Time Trials). They have instructors available at every event for new drivers, just need to contact them to let them know you are new. I can get you more info if you want.
I am staying on street tires for the moment, give good feedback and decent wear. Everybody I talk to on slicks says the transition from traction to no traction is more abrupt with slicks that street rubber.
Your first purchases should be a helmet and maintenance on the car to make sure it's in proper order to be out on the track.
I am staying on street tires for the moment, give good feedback and decent wear. Everybody I talk to on slicks says the transition from traction to no traction is more abrupt with slicks that street rubber.
Your first purchases should be a helmet and maintenance on the car to make sure it's in proper order to be out on the track.
#15
Burning Brakes
Think you are on the right path here and have had some good suggestions. I personally skipped the parking lot cone stuff - I have done it. but nothing beats a good road course!
Brake fluid, pads and summer tires on our wagon wheels sounds like a good idea. I do suggest at least get a harness bar, harness, helmet and hans device.
Also, make sure you are ok writing off your car is something happens. I've been doing this for 20 years and have been lucky, but for any of us to think, oh it won't happen to me is fooling themselves!
Welcome to the drug, it's rewarding, fun, massively addictive, but not always kind!
Brake fluid, pads and summer tires on our wagon wheels sounds like a good idea. I do suggest at least get a harness bar, harness, helmet and hans device.
Also, make sure you are ok writing off your car is something happens. I've been doing this for 20 years and have been lucky, but for any of us to think, oh it won't happen to me is fooling themselves!
Welcome to the drug, it's rewarding, fun, massively addictive, but not always kind!
#16
Team Owner
It seems most of your concern is about your tires. You could probably score a set of C6 rims for about $700. You figure TPMS for tires, $400. A set of say, Toyota R888's are about $1200 a set new or find someone selling scrubs for about $500 a set. Mounting about $100- now you have a set of tires to drive to and from events and save your street tires. You will need a TPMS tool to use the new tires- I bought the AEC unit from Tire Rack for about $100.
I work on a budget as well. You can find great deals here and Craigslist. I was able to get my CCW wheels, seats,harness bar harness, etc... From guys giving the sport up. You just have to be ready to jump when that deal comes up.
I work on a budget as well. You can find great deals here and Craigslist. I was able to get my CCW wheels, seats,harness bar harness, etc... From guys giving the sport up. You just have to be ready to jump when that deal comes up.
#17
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It seems most of your concern is about your tires. You could probably score a set of C6 rims for about $700. You figure TPMS for tires, $400. A set of say, Toyota R888's are about $1200 a set new or find someone selling scrubs for about $500 a set. Mounting about $100- now you have a set of tires to drive to and from events and save your street tires. You will need a TPMS tool to use the new tires- I bought the AEC unit from Tire Rack for about $100.
I work on a budget as well. You can find great deals here and Craigslist. I was able to get my CCW wheels, seats,harness bar harness, etc... From guys giving the sport up. You just have to be ready to jump when that deal comes up.
I work on a budget as well. You can find great deals here and Craigslist. I was able to get my CCW wheels, seats,harness bar harness, etc... From guys giving the sport up. You just have to be ready to jump when that deal comes up.
#18
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Think you are on the right path here and have had some good suggestions. I personally skipped the parking lot cone stuff - I have done it. but nothing beats a good road course!
Brake fluid, pads and summer tires on our wagon wheels sounds like a good idea. I do suggest at least get a harness bar, harness, helmet and hans device.
Also, make sure you are ok writing off your car is something happens. I've been doing this for 20 years and have been lucky, but for any of us to think, oh it won't happen to me is fooling themselves!
Welcome to the drug, it's rewarding, fun, massively addictive, but not always kind!
Brake fluid, pads and summer tires on our wagon wheels sounds like a good idea. I do suggest at least get a harness bar, harness, helmet and hans device.
Also, make sure you are ok writing off your car is something happens. I've been doing this for 20 years and have been lucky, but for any of us to think, oh it won't happen to me is fooling themselves!
Welcome to the drug, it's rewarding, fun, massively addictive, but not always kind!
That was my thought too. The AutoX was fun but I think a road course fits a corvette better.
#19
Drifting
down the path
I'm down the same path as you, just a couple years ahead. Seat time is number 1A and you are better off with a bone stock car. When an instructor asks what you have done and you say, the car is bone stock except for brake fluid and pads, they will always say "Great".
Here's what I did:
1. spare set of rotors and some pads for better braking (I did Hawk HP+) I change them just before an event. All the other posters are 100% correct about brake fluid. a power bleeder is a good investment. After your 2nd or 3rd DE you are going to need BRAKES. Belts and hoses if your car has some miles, but belts for sure and keep the onld one for a spare (learn how to change one)
2. If you are patient and watch Craigslist you will find all the street tires and wheels you will need for a year or two. I bought three sets a year ago, kept the tires and sold the wheels one at a time, selling the good ones and keeping the ones with road rash for track wheels. I ended up with plenty of rubber and wheels and a little more cash in my pocket than I started. Remember Z06 wheels and tires are just a bit bigger than a base C5. Be careful about how old the tires are and if they are several years old, sell them to someone else for street use. There is always someone looking for burnout tires.
3. If you decide you like this, then this winter, watch this forum and the NASA classified for used stuff. If patient, you will find a harness bar for a coulple hundered bucks, a set of used seats. etc. You can piece these things together as time goes on and you get better.
4. A remote clutch bleeder will be a good idea as well. If you have the tools and desire, you can DIY this one and you will learn a bunch about Corvette drivetrain and suspension.
Here's what I did:
1. spare set of rotors and some pads for better braking (I did Hawk HP+) I change them just before an event. All the other posters are 100% correct about brake fluid. a power bleeder is a good investment. After your 2nd or 3rd DE you are going to need BRAKES. Belts and hoses if your car has some miles, but belts for sure and keep the onld one for a spare (learn how to change one)
2. If you are patient and watch Craigslist you will find all the street tires and wheels you will need for a year or two. I bought three sets a year ago, kept the tires and sold the wheels one at a time, selling the good ones and keeping the ones with road rash for track wheels. I ended up with plenty of rubber and wheels and a little more cash in my pocket than I started. Remember Z06 wheels and tires are just a bit bigger than a base C5. Be careful about how old the tires are and if they are several years old, sell them to someone else for street use. There is always someone looking for burnout tires.
3. If you decide you like this, then this winter, watch this forum and the NASA classified for used stuff. If patient, you will find a harness bar for a coulple hundered bucks, a set of used seats. etc. You can piece these things together as time goes on and you get better.
4. A remote clutch bleeder will be a good idea as well. If you have the tools and desire, you can DIY this one and you will learn a bunch about Corvette drivetrain and suspension.
#20
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I just started myself, and I will be up at Blackhawk Farms in South Beloit, IL on July 14th for a High Speed Autocross (Time Trials). They have instructors available at every event for new drivers, just need to contact them to let them know you are new. I can get you more info if you want.
I am staying on street tires for the moment, give good feedback and decent wear. Everybody I talk to on slicks says the transition from traction to no traction is more abrupt with slicks that street rubber.
Your first purchases should be a helmet and maintenance on the car to make sure it's in proper order to be out on the track.
I am staying on street tires for the moment, give good feedback and decent wear. Everybody I talk to on slicks says the transition from traction to no traction is more abrupt with slicks that street rubber.
Your first purchases should be a helmet and maintenance on the car to make sure it's in proper order to be out on the track.