moespeeds

What setup are you running, and how do you like it? I'm going to take one more shot at fixing my ABS this weekend, and if I can't, I'm going to dual m/c.

Short-Throw

I run Dual MCs in my car with a F/R bias ****. A dual MC is a great safety feature. Adjusting F/R brake bias is a nice option but you have to be careful dialing in too much rear.


Mike

moespeeds

Who's setup are you running, got any pictures? I've got Wilwood 6 pistons on the front (13" rotors) and stock rears.

Short-Throw

Moe,

What's your current setup? My Tilton application is more suited for a full blown race car.

The first two pics show the dual MC tucked drivers side inside the firewall just before the CF cowl. The third cylinder is the clutch.






Cockpit brake bias is the big red round button lower right (which controls the lever mounted on the Tilton pedal assembly).

LanceGardiner

moespeeds,

This is my setup:

http://members.shaw.ca/corvette.84/C5brakes.html#dualmc

The page has calculators for bias, pedal length, and M/C sizing.

Lance.

Cobra4B

Little to be gained, lots of tinkering to get it setup right. What's going on with your ABS? There are quite a few things that can cause issues that are easy fixed i.e. a failed EBCM, certain types of SS brake hoses causing interference with wheel speed sensors, or a bad sensor itself etc.

moespeeds

Thanks for the pics guys. The car is track only, I'm not racing, I'm just starting with DE's. Mechanically there is not much I can't do, I have a mill, a lathe, and a TIG welder so I'm not too concerned about fabrication, but does anyone sell a turnkey setup for this or is it something I'm gonna have to cobble together? I checked out Tilton and Wilwood, and couldn't find anything. I emailed Wilwood but have not heard back from them. Short Throw are those ABS fuses I see on your dash? Are you running ABS with the Dual MC?

moespeeds

I just called Wilwood and the guy told me to get this setup:

http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinde...no=260-8556-BK

A tandem MC and then use a proportioning valve on the rear which would be adjustable under hood. Looks like a simpler setup that going with the pedal but is it what I want?

moespeeds

I've got a whole 'nother thread on here somewhere about this. In a nutshell, initially it was grounded wires at the front wheel speed sensors. I fixed them and took it on track, and it lasted 2 sessions before failing again with a 1255 code. The thing is I drove a hell of a lot better without it, and it seems that plenty of really fast guys aren't using it. Like I said I'm gonna take another shot at fixing it this weekend, but there is no way I'm going to spend $600-$800 for a used EBCM that might not last a week. ABS fixer won't work on pre-2001 units and from my research there doesn't seem to be any retrofit.

Cobra4B

Ahhh... you've got a pre-2001 car. Yeah ABSFixer doesn't work on those.

trackboss

I also have an older car so I am aware of the crazy cost of the replacement ebcm.
On other cars I've done both conversions to manual brake still using stock type master cylinder(there are a variety of sizes to choose from to dial in the pedal feel/travel) that feeds both the front and rear brakes as well as complete brake hydraulic re-do using custom pedals with balance bar and dual m/c's. In your case the easiest thing to do is to build custom lines after the factory m/c going directly to the calipers. You can alternatively just make adapter lines to bypass the abs system, but that would not be the clean way to do it. Either way you will keep your booster so brake effort will remain the same for the most part, and you can still comfortably drive on the street.
If you decide you want to go further and use dual m/c's then you would need to adapt a mount for use with two m/c's and a balance bar(that will allow you to keep the booster). Going further you can replace the pedals and install an aftermarket setup that accepts the dual m/c's and has the balance bar built in. On a street car or similar going to a floor mount would be the easiest for that.