C4 Rear Wheel Bearing "Tip of the Day"
07-18-2012, 04:45 PM
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
C4 Rear Wheel Bearing "Tip of the Day"
I just bought some hubs at O'reillys for $133 each with a 3 year warranty. They are sold as Precision brand but when I picked them up, they were Made in USA SKF's. With a 3 year warranty that I can actually walk into the store and return the shot bearings(instead of the worthless internet warranties) that's like half off!
07-19-2012, 08:59 AM
#5
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Oct 2007
Location: Akron Ohio
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2023 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2022 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11
I would like to know how long they last on track. I have been through Timken, AC Delco, BCA, NOS, and cheap Chinese ones. None of them last more than one weekend on soft tires.
Hoosier A + 2 day track event = 4 sloppy bearings
07-19-2012, 11:42 AM
#8
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
What I look for is a dramatic loss of tension in the spindle nut. I've always found that when the spindle nut is finger tight after an event, there is generally a large loss of grease and sometimes the outer housing literally falls apart. That's my signal to change the bearing.
07-19-2012, 12:08 PM
#9
Melting Slicks
I think it depends on your definition of "done." I run Pirelli DH slicks, so they generate reasonable lateral force as well. I've also used the different brands and there isn't that much difference,my last set were the Chinese ones. If you are comparing the tightness from a newly installed set to a used one, they all get sloppy pretty quick. I've just come to the conclusion, it's the nature of the design and come to accept it. I don't spend the money and effort to change out a bearing because it loosened up a bit.
What I look for is a dramatic loss of tension in the spindle nut. I've always found that when the spindle nut is finger tight after an event, there is generally a large loss of grease and sometimes the outer housing literally falls apart. That's my signal to change the bearing.
What I look for is a dramatic loss of tension in the spindle nut. I've always found that when the spindle nut is finger tight after an event, there is generally a large loss of grease and sometimes the outer housing literally falls apart. That's my signal to change the bearing.
The hub bearing will lossen fairly quickly, but will maintain an acceptable tolerance for a long time. I change fronts many more times the rears, but my rears are many years old and finally need changing. I run a track setup with Goodyears slicks and the car generates plenty of lateral force.
"Tension in the spindle nut" What do you mean?
07-19-2012, 12:23 PM
#10
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Oct 2007
Location: Akron Ohio
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2023 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2022 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11
I get about 1/16" of play at the tire (outermost diameter) moving the tire in the 12 o'clock-6 o'clock positions, and 3-9 o'clock. It just feels too loose to me, and I dont want to risk the bearing failing and loosing a wheel or something. I think waiting for the axle nut to loosen is already too late.
My OEM hubs were tight when I bought the car (~90K miles) and I didn't have to change them until 105K (street and track miles). All the replacements fail quickly.
My OEM hubs were tight when I bought the car (~90K miles) and I didn't have to change them until 105K (street and track miles). All the replacements fail quickly.
07-19-2012, 12:41 PM
#11
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
07-19-2012, 08:13 PM
#13
Good to know about O'reilly bearings.
The rears have lasted about 17 events with nt01's on mine. The spindle nuts have had to be retorqued about 10 times, the nut even bends over the safety tabs sometimes. They haven't loosened the last few events, I always figured it was due to the toe heel downshifting not working out so well and the spindle moving in the spline......
They're National Federal Mogal.
Haven't had that kind of luck with the front, but
AC delco or SKF seem to do pretty good.
The rears have lasted about 17 events with nt01's on mine. The spindle nuts have had to be retorqued about 10 times, the nut even bends over the safety tabs sometimes. They haven't loosened the last few events, I always figured it was due to the toe heel downshifting not working out so well and the spindle moving in the spline......
They're National Federal Mogal.Haven't had that kind of luck with the front, but
AC delco or SKF seem to do pretty good.
07-19-2012, 08:39 PM
#14
Le Mans Master
What are you guys using for initial torque on the spindle nut?
On my 92 I'm using 200ft/lb and have not had a problem with Timkin bearings and Hoosier R6.
On my 92 I'm using 200ft/lb and have not had a problem with Timkin bearings and Hoosier R6.
07-19-2012, 08:54 PM
#15
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I torque it initially to 170+ ft-lbf. With the cotter pin in place, the nut is not backing off because of vibration. The nut is stationary, its the hub assy that dimensionally changes as it wears out. I don't know why but that's what I am observing.
07-19-2012, 10:24 PM
#17
Max G’s
Great, thanks for the warning guys. I've got Timken and haven't had any issues so far. Now, after this weekend, I'll probably have the car up on jacks to replace rear bearings. 
This year has been nuts with little gremlins creeping up. And jsut when I thought I could see light at the end of the tunnel.
This year has been nuts with little gremlins creeping up. And jsut when I thought I could see light at the end of the tunnel.
07-21-2012, 08:22 PM
#20
I thought everyone knew that or I would have posted. When I bought my race car it came with reciepts and sure enough, SKF bearing bought from OReillys. It certainly was true. I haven't figured out where to get them up here yet.