Turning Rotors
07-26-2012, 09:29 PM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Turning Rotors
If I track my C5Z on stock rotors and see heat checking, can I pull the rotors,have them turned
($10) and put them back on for my next event. The reason I ask is because rotors almost never fail for being too thin but do fail from cracking. This would remove the surface cracks, in theory giving me the same rotor life as a new rotor for $10. Any thoughts?
($10) and put them back on for my next event. The reason I ask is because rotors almost never fail for being too thin but do fail from cracking. This would remove the surface cracks, in theory giving me the same rotor life as a new rotor for $10. Any thoughts?
07-26-2012, 11:07 PM
#2
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If I track my C5Z on stock rotors and see heat checking, can I pull the rotors,have them turned
($10) and put them back on for my next event. The reason I ask is because rotors almost never fail for being too thin but do fail from cracking. This would remove the surface cracks, in theory giving me the same rotor life as a new rotor for $10. Any thoughts?
($10) and put them back on for my next event. The reason I ask is because rotors almost never fail for being too thin but do fail from cracking. This would remove the surface cracks, in theory giving me the same rotor life as a new rotor for $10. Any thoughts?
I've had zero success in removing heat cracks by turning the rotors. You may get the APPEARANCE of removing heat cracks but all you do is remove the surface cracks.
07-26-2012, 11:18 PM
#3
Le Mans Master
If I track my C5Z on stock rotors and see heat checking, can I pull the rotors,have them turned
($10) and put them back on for my next event. The reason I ask is because rotors almost never fail for being too thin but do fail from cracking. This would remove the surface cracks, in theory giving me the same rotor life as a new rotor for $10. Any thoughts?
($10) and put them back on for my next event. The reason I ask is because rotors almost never fail for being too thin but do fail from cracking. This would remove the surface cracks, in theory giving me the same rotor life as a new rotor for $10. Any thoughts?
I have a bunch of new ones stacked in my shed if you want them for $20, but a number of them are rusted from sitting around on a shelf. The rust comes right off on the first round of braking. I don't use them any more as in 2011 my race class let us go from stock one piece rotors to the race grade two piece rotors.
The best stock rotors to use are used ones that have been seasoned from street use for some time, if you can find them.
Oli
07-26-2012, 11:46 PM
#4
Drifting
There is no reason to get rid of surface cracks, It doesn't make any difference to the performance. Fortunately the rotors always crack on the outside so you can easily see which one is cracked.
07-27-2012, 04:02 PM
#5
Safety Car
Save your money. Just run them until they crack and replace them with $40 NAPA rotors.
I have a bunch of new ones stacked in my shed if you want them for $20, but a number of them are rusted from sitting around on a shelf. The rust comes right off on the first round of braking. I don't use them any more as in 2011 my race class let us go from stock one piece rotors to the race grade two piece rotors.
Oli
I have a bunch of new ones stacked in my shed if you want them for $20, but a number of them are rusted from sitting around on a shelf. The rust comes right off on the first round of braking. I don't use them any more as in 2011 my race class let us go from stock one piece rotors to the race grade two piece rotors.
Oli
07-28-2012, 11:08 AM
#10
Track Junky
What about turning them down to get rid of smearing? I melted a set of XP-10's onto a rotor and the pedal vibration got pretty bad with them on the car. Can I turn them to get rid of the pad material and still be ok? Maybe take 0.005-0.010 off each side?
07-28-2012, 08:57 PM
#12
Track Junky
I'm assuming you mean let the brakes naturally eat the old pad material off? I will have to drive aroun town for a few weeks, but it saves the rotors I will do it. Just have to be sure to keep the pads cool enough to ensure it removes material instead of transferring it.
Thanks for the backup!
Thanks for the backup!
07-28-2012, 10:52 PM
#13
Melting Slicks
I did this with no issues, still had the pad imprint on the rotor but was true.
Did it off the car.
Instructed my buddy who owns a shop to take off the minimum to true the surface.
Be careful with Autozone or the like turning rotors, they will cut the crap out of them.
Did it off the car.
Instructed my buddy who owns a shop to take off the minimum to true the surface.
Be careful with Autozone or the like turning rotors, they will cut the crap out of them.
07-29-2012, 12:48 PM
#14
I did this with no issues, still had the pad imprint on the rotor but was true.
Did it off the car.
Instructed my buddy who owns a shop to take off the minimum to true the surface.
Be careful with Autozone or the like turning rotors, they will cut the crap out of them.
Did it off the car.
Instructed my buddy who owns a shop to take off the minimum to true the surface.
Be careful with Autozone or the like turning rotors, they will cut the crap out of them.
It is always a good idea to turn rotor still installed on car, so the turning operation will factor in bearing run out to produce the desired balance.
07-29-2012, 02:31 PM
#15
Melting Slicks
The calipers float with the rotor. I have driven on track with a wheel bearing that had a small amount of play, pads wore even in spite of this(to the eye any way).
Produce the desired balance of what??
The wheel bearing would have to be trashed to affect anything, besides if you cut a rotor on car with a bad wheel bearing the surfaces will not be true any way.
07-30-2012, 01:33 PM
#17
I don't see the need for this, who has this equipment any way?
***A reputable brake shop should have the equipment - it is to each his own when deciding on whether he needs it or not!
The calipers float with the rotor. I have driven on track with a wheel bearing that had a small amount of play, pads wore even in spite of this(to the eye any way).
***Indeed it does float, but certainly within the acceptable tolerance of the whole assembly. Bearing should not be "tight" nor should it have "play", rotation of bearing should be within tolerance. If the bearing run-out becomes excessive, that will cause eccentricity and you will feel it for sure! Visual checks are deceiving, only precision instruments could reliably tell the tale!
Produce the desired balance of what??
***The balance of operating within the tolerance, the fit of bearing and the mating parts as an assembly. One element out of tolerance/balance, the assembly as a whole will suffer.
The wheel bearing would have to be trashed to affect anything, besides if you cut a rotor on car with a bad wheel bearing the surfaces will not be true any way.
***A reputable brake shop should have the equipment - it is to each his own when deciding on whether he needs it or not!
The calipers float with the rotor. I have driven on track with a wheel bearing that had a small amount of play, pads wore even in spite of this(to the eye any way).
***Indeed it does float, but certainly within the acceptable tolerance of the whole assembly. Bearing should not be "tight" nor should it have "play", rotation of bearing should be within tolerance. If the bearing run-out becomes excessive, that will cause eccentricity and you will feel it for sure! Visual checks are deceiving, only precision instruments could reliably tell the tale!
Produce the desired balance of what??
***The balance of operating within the tolerance, the fit of bearing and the mating parts as an assembly. One element out of tolerance/balance, the assembly as a whole will suffer.
The wheel bearing would have to be trashed to affect anything, besides if you cut a rotor on car with a bad wheel bearing the surfaces will not be true any way.