moespeeds

For the guys running track only C5's, what are you running for rotors? I started out running the cheapo centrics, but they weren't lasting long. I switched to the centric cryo's, and I was getting about 3 days out of them in the front. Cracked a set at Summit yesterday, so I threw on a new set of centrics, and cracked them in 3 sessions. Using Wilwood H pads, and I have DRM cooling ducts. Using all the tricks as far as cooling the brakes, rolling the car around in the pits, etc. Looks like I'm gonna have to bite the bullet and start buying real rotors. I'm running Wilwood SL6 calipers up front on 13" rotors. Prefer the feel of the H compound pads they seem to be working well for me. Any suggestions?

Bill Dearborn

I doubt you will do any better than 3 to 4 days. I tried the Coleman AFX two piece rotors on my C6Z and the fronts don't last any longer than the stock rotors do. With Wilwood H pads I get about the same rotor life as I did running the cheapo NAPA rotors on my C5Z.

Bill

moespeeds

Someone at the track told me to try DBA's? I don't mind throwing some money at it as long as they last a bit longer. So 3 days on the cryo centrics ain't bad, I was wondering if maybe I was doing something wrong.

J.R.

When I had Wilwoods with H pads I got the best results with Coleman slotted rotors (heat treated).

moespeeds

I was looking at the Coleman setup, it uses hats? How do I know what hats to buy?

stevensa

I run the Coleman rotors setup from Performance AFX. My first set of rotors lasted me 13 track days before they cracked. I use Carbotech XP10 front pads. The slots in the rotors were literally worn away before they finally died. I now have 4 track days on my second set of rotors from them and they look great. I also have the DRM brake duct setup.

CHJ In Virginia

I am also running the Wilwood SL6 Calipers and "H" pads on the front of the Z06 with proper cooling ducts. Tried all the various types of solid rotors and got a max of 3-4 days out of them. I recently switched to a set of DBA 5000 two piece rotors from a forum vendor.
They are pricey and I can purchase 4 sets NAPA front rotors for what a set of front replacement rings cost, much less the cost of the entire rotor. The racers seem to love them, but for me the jury is still out. I have three days on them and they are already starting to visibly heat check. To break even with the cheapo rotors, I need to get at least 16 days on them, don't think that is going to happen. The next few events will tell.
Another downside is that it would be very difficult to swap rings at the track as a special tri-wing bit and an inch pound torque wrench is required. With about 15 bolts, it is an involved process. You need to take a set of solid cheapo spares just in case.

J.R.

A good resource for Coleman's is Todd Cook at TCE Performance in Tempe,AZ 480-967-7901

Very knowledgeable and will give you good info whether he sells you anything or not. Also, a forum contributor.

sothpaw2

You haven't tried all the tricks. The main trick is to have lots of miles on the new rotors before you track them. Your spares should be partially cracked track/street rotors that have also seen lots of miles...I learned this just as you did last year with a brand new rear that lasted 1 day. It was the way it cracked out...only in ONE spot. NO heat checks.

Also--and this is especially true if you do run virgin rotors on the track--I think moving the car in the paddock is very, very important. You should do it several times, not just once. Don't wait to long to do it after you get it out. Also--if there's one bad crack spot and you see it, make sure that when you are in the paddock, you don't let the caliper ever sit over that bad spot...not even for 1 minute.

Assume you do a good cool down lap on track (absolutely no brakes after checker) and then go out the access road and back in the paddock.

Per above I get 4 days+ out of Centric Premiums. Never tried cryo but an instructor got less time out of them than I did on premiums. Currently trying DBA 4000. I did not have a chance to put enough miles on them before first use so they heat checked soon. But they are still alive w/ 3.5 day so I think they will beat the premiums...not sure by how much yet. Wilwood H pad, C5Z stock caliper. ss pistons and Ti shields + brake cooling ducts.

It takes a lot to get these rotors to last!

UncleRobb

I also have 13" front rotors in my C6 with stock calipers that I use on the Northloop as well as in trafic, including the autobahn. I had some rather bad experiences with the stock rotors that not only cracked beginning at the holes but also warped at the regions between the holes which I could readily detect with my finger tips.

I recently switched to the two piece slotted DBA 5000 rotors. I believe that when using new rotors it is important to properly brake them in by using the usual procedure of 60 to 30 mph deceleration with medium brake pressure until there is fading, then driving without using the brakes until they are essentialy cold, and finally letting them rest, preferably over night, before going to the track. This not only puts a layer from the brake pad material onto the rotor's surface but it also hardens the rotor. I think today rotors are usually not hardened by the factory, leaving this to the user. A rotor that has never gone through such a complete heat cycle will likely wear prematurely.

I hope that helps, Robert

moespeeds

The car is track only, it's not street legal, so finding used rotors isn't really an option. For break in, I'm going on the road in the industrial complex I keep the car at, and using the brakes to fade, then driving the loop without brakes to cool them. It's a process I'm very familiar with, as we did the same with the race bikes. When I say I tried all the tricks yesterday, I tried everything, the guys in the pits thought I was nuts rolling the car around every min or so after I got in, and I was giving it a full cool down lap. I really tried my best to get the centrics to last the day as I wanted 4 full sessions. I def saw better results with the cryo, but 3 days is pretty much the best I got. TCE is where I currently buy my brake pads, Todd is a great guy and last week he did me a huge favor in getting a set of pads out last min so I could run this weekend. I'll call him about the Coleman setup, I guess I'd have to buy 2 sets of hats so I can have a spare built and ready to go.

argonaut

Summit Point main is a bitch on brakes...so no surprise you are cracking rotors there.

I have the AP Racing J-hook rotors with Hardbar hats. Got 38 sessions out of my first set. Some of the racers on this board are getting more than that. I have a new set of rings that I am 'seasoning' on the street now. They are very simple to change rings on, a child could do it. All you need is an inch-lb torque wrench and standard metric socket.

In the past I had a set of 2-piece PFC rotors. Best rotors I've ever seen. Over 80 sessions on them before they cracked.

JeremyGSU

When you say 13" rotors are you referring to the oem C5 rotor sizing?

I got 6 track days out of DBA4000's with DRM brake duct kit and XP12's before I changed them and they still hadn't cracked all the way through.

jimtway

I run DBA 5000 rotors with C6 Z51 calipers and Cobalt XR-1 pads. I can get 10+ track days out of rotors. They wear out before cracking (worn to slots).

Last C5

I'm running the Stoptech Aero two piece 13" rotors. They are a factory fit replacement and I usually get between 15 and 17 days on them running at tracks that are hard on brakes. (Thunderhill & Portland)

Lasco001

I`m running Brembo Race 380x35 (15 ")
20mm Pads Pagid RS15 and Carbotech XP12

SouthernSon

AP T1 rotor 2pc. from Gary at Hardbar. This is my second year running the set and have now decided to relegate the rings to back up and am putting a new set on before next event. Can't complain. I brake 'em hard with 3400#'s using DTC 70's. Great floating 2pc.