dfinke23

As many of you know, you cannot fully disable tc/ah in a C6 if you are below 25psi, and its a pain to mess with it on track. To get the ideal hot temps on many of the tires we run, you need to be below that mark.
After fighting the stock TPMS system for a couple of years, and having it lock the front right caliper and pull me off the track, I decided to do something different.
The first effort was to send the BCM to WAMS and have them delete the system; this worked for a couple of other forum members but I had a horrible experience with them. The BCM didn't work, and after a month of no response, I was told to bug off.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/autocrossing-and-roadracing/2980292-tpms-delete-beware.html

I remembered reading a few threads on the pressurized cannister to fool the TPMS system, and decided to send a few PM's and get details. The response wasn't what I was looking for - more "it should work" than "this is how I did it". It seemed like more people were going to do it than had actually done it.

Well, it works...but there are a few things you need to know.

1. I made the cannister from 4" PVC and a valve stem. After letting the 3rd cannister dry overnight and having the cap pop after adding 30 psi (I am a former pipe fitter, so I know how to make the joint properly), I decided to use hose clamps in addition to and immediately after gluing the joints - one on each cap, and one long ways around the entire cannister. This will keep everything together when the car gets hot in the summer.

2. Be patient. After getting everything together and knowing the cannister was holding pressure, the DIC read 0 psi. I went for a drive, did a few brake checks to rattle the sensors and just when I thought it wasn't going to work the car picked up the signal.

3. On the track you are moving the sensors enough for them to send almost constant signal. With everyday use, especially hwy driving, you need to do an occasional hard brake check or an aggressive turn occasionally to keep them talking. If not, they will lose signal.

I will post pics later today, but overall I'm very happy with it. It's nice to be able to finally have control of the system.

db2xpert

Looking forward to pics.

Did you register the senders to the wheel locations before putting them into the cannister?

moespeeds

Why not just use threaded black pipe?

dfinke23

Yes



Because the TPMS don't fit very well in 2" screw pipe, and the valve stem doesn't like the wall and cap radius.

moespeeds

You can get much bigger than 2" diameter, I've got a piece of 4" here that I use as a die for bending sheet metal. That strap idea is pretty slick, but as you probably know, that PVC is gonna turn into a grenade if it fails, especially if it gets real cold or dries out.

db2xpert

Did you just put them in the container loose, or pack something with them to keep them from rattling around?
Approx how tight did you make the hose clamps around the caps? Guesstimated torque value?

Did you consider a removable cap on one end?
Certainly glueing them is easier and faster.

Thanks for the pics, they explain a lot.

dfinke23

I have some 4" in the shop, and a die/pipe machine that can handle it, but 4" schedule 40 with 2 caps is pretty heavy, and this was just temporary to confirm that it worked. I am getting ready to do an aluminum setup with one end tig welded on and the other threaded with an o-ring seal.


I put the sensors in loose so they would rattle around - the more they rattle, the more they broadcast. The hose clamps are approx 100 inch lbs.

froggy47

Nice, thanks (for when I get c6z). If they need to "move" more to broadcast, how about if you suspended them somehow, thinking bungee, so that average car movement is amplified by the suspension?

rbl

Certainly no point in keeping it simple if you can over complicate it.

I did this in 2005 and it has been posted a couple of times on the forum. I have put air in it precisely one time and it is still working just fine. I also wrapped the sensors in a thin foam sheet so they do not "bang around".

You just need to cut the tube to gain access. To do over again I would use one cap and a sewer clean-out on the other end.

seegeer

Just a quick question did you put all 4 in the tube or did you make 4 seperate tubes? Thanks

msracing

what happens when the tpms is not reading ,,,??? i have a set of ccw that don't have the tpms in them .... will it change something in the maps?

thanks

davidfarmer

Schedule 40 PVC should be able to handle 30psi without any clamps

JerryTX

I used 2" Schedule 40 PVC. I cut off the valve stems on all 4 TPMS units so that they would fit in the unit so to answer your question yes you can make all 4 TPMS units fit in a single 2" PVC canister, but only if you cut off the valves, unless your going for a 2" 'T'.

Other details: I mounted a tire valve meant for mag wheels so it screws on and had rubber grommets. I mounted it in the center of the cap so that I can put the whole setup in a drill chuck and spin it to wake the stupid things up. Ridiculous isn't this? Oh yeah, never ever ever use the rubber plugs that you screw and they expand.. they don't hold, nope, uh uh, don't do it, don't even try it!

rbl

Yes .. the modified maps will make the car go to California!

Anthony@ARH

How do you program all 4 sensors when they are in one atmosphere?

JerryTX

You can't. You program them outside the canister and then put them in the canister and cement it together.

JerryTX

With no TPMS sensors registered and reading safe pressures, you are not able to enter into Competitive Driving Mode, or better yet, get past that mode and be able to turn all the nannies off altogether (TPMS is required for Competitive or Nannies off mode). The car stays in Active Handling mode which applies the rear brakes and can send you off track.

rbl

"Maybe" correct; however, since each sensor has a unique address I am not sure they can not be re-programed even if they are together.

The only mod I would make to mine (if I were to do it again) is to use a clean-out plug on one end so it does not need to be cut apart to open. It will seal just fine .... or you chit will leak out!

JerryTX

If you have a standard TPMS reprogramming tool (like the $140 I have in the toolbox) the answer is still going to be no. If you have a high dollar ($500+) unit that allows you to see and verify the unique sensor ID's then yes maybe you can select and reprogram it for individual units while they are all in one space, but I'm not spending that much on one of those tools. I love the clean out plug idea, wish I saw that when I built my last canister.

mad99

I assume that since the TPMS uses a radio frequency (RF) signal, putting the sensors in a metal enclosure will block the signal. Anyone check this?