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Old 09-12-2012, 10:25 AM
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road pilot
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Default Front brake cooling

I am getting ready to go to BB and front brake cooling.
What is the favored vendor/brand that is being used today????
Quantum seems like a good system and LG has a nice system
too but it cost twice as much.
What do you think?? Thanks.
Old 09-12-2012, 10:44 AM
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C5 or C6? Why are you looking to go with a BBK?

Personally I like the simplicity of DRM ducts with ECS spindle ducts. They mount between the hub and spindle and aren't strapped/tacked on like the Quantum ones.




Old 09-12-2012, 03:58 PM
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Thanks for the info and pictures. I read the official install sight
for DRM and then I read alot of posts from guys having trouble
with install and having to disconnect the lower control arm. I
have not read anyother posts concerning other vendors and
nothing is said about the control arm. This concerns me ( the
control arm removel).
Thanks again for your advice.
I have a 2000 vette.
Old 09-12-2012, 04:06 PM
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There is no need to disconnect the control arms for the DRM duct install. You do have to remove the hub to install the ECS spindle duct. To R&R the hub you have to separate the lower balljoint to get to the lower bolt.

If you're going to be tracking one of these cars (or any car) you'd better get familiar with servicing the suspension.

Last edited by Cobra4B; 09-12-2012 at 08:02 PM.
Old 09-12-2012, 07:33 PM
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John Shiels
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Originally Posted by Cobra4B
There is no need to disconnect the control arms for the DRM duct install. You do have to remove the hub to install the ECS spindle duct. Do R&R the hub you have to separate the lower balljoint to get to the lower bot.

If you're going to be tracking one of these cars (or any car) you'd better get familiar with servicing the suspension.
Or have a thick wallet.
Old 09-12-2012, 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Cobra4B
There is no need to disconnect the control arms for the DRM duct install. You do have to remove the hub to install the ECS spindle duct. Do R&R the hub you have to separate the lower balljoint to get to the lower bot.

If you're going to be tracking one of these cars (or any car) you'd better get familiar with servicing the suspension.
Originally Posted by John Shiels
Or have a thick wallet.
Probably both.

Removing front hub is very easy. Did it in the garage one day with basic tools just to see what average person goes through and It took no time following basic instructions.
Old 09-12-2012, 08:03 PM
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Depends on the car... some lower balljoints will separate with the tap of a hammer on a board. Others will fight you even with the Kent-Moore tool!
Old 09-12-2012, 08:06 PM
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rithsleeper
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How does tape hold up to that heat? Its right at the rotor! What tubing did you use and what is it rated. I was quoted $16 a foot from a company for high tem tubing up to 1300* intermittent. There has to be cheaper stuff. And they are asking i buy 13ft min.
Old 09-12-2012, 08:09 PM
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The hose is what came with the DRM kit. There's a metal hose clamp under the tape at each end of the hose. The tape just prevents any issues from any rubbing. On my old car when I'd run big tires they'd rub on the inner part right where the hose clamp was if I turned the wheel too far. End ended up flipping the excess clamp backwards and made it a PITA to get it flat after that. Thus, on this car I put Gorilla tape over everything. Gorilla tape is extremely strong.
Old 09-12-2012, 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by rithsleeper
How does tape hold up to that heat? Its right at the rotor! What tubing did you use and what is it rated. I was quoted $16 a foot from a company for high tem tubing up to 1300* intermittent. There has to be cheaper stuff. And they are asking i buy 13ft min.
I used aircraft ducting from aircraft spruce

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