waddisme

I have 6 weeks until my next track day (work and anniversary commitments). Here is what my left front ca bushing looks like:



I did VIR last Friday with it and it was virtually unchanged afterwards. I am thinking now is a good time to change as I have one track day left in Nov (VIR or RD ATL) and a 2 day at Daytona in Dec. I found bags $10 Home Depot install set up, so will that work to remove? I think I have access to a press but not sure how big. Also, is the Pfadt poly the only real option for 12 days/yr hpde car? So will I need to do all at once or just fronts now and rears over the winter? Would it be better to just take off and ship to someone and have them do them? I am not really comfortable shaving ca diameters or trimming bushings. Thanks in advance for help.

Aardwolf

I changed them on my C4 was it was pretty easy. I used my vice and still do not have a press. I have had bushings a bit to long before and just trim them by holding them on the belt sander. The flat side of the bench grinder wheel also works well.

Pfadt Racing

Our control arm bushings aren't the only option out there, but we definitely feel that they are the best option available. If you can handle removing the factory rubber bushings from the control arms you can definitely handle trimming the front upper bushings to your particular control arms. It's really not as tricky as it sounds and the newly trimmed edge doesn't need to be absolutely perfect for it to function properly. You just need to remove enough material so there is a gap between the two bushings on the front uppers. Other than that there is no other trimming or special work involved. If you're comfortable pushing out the factory bushings you should be just fine completing the rest of the install.

CHJ In Virginia

I agree, you can do it yourself if you are reasonable proficient with tools and can read instructions. The worst part is getting the old bushing out of the A arm. You can always remove The A arms and take to a local shop that has a press and have the shop push the bushings out. There have been several recent threads on various methods to remove the bushings.

VGLNTE1

My bushings look the same. Was wondering what the best way was to get those out.

Solofast

Stick the rear most ear of the rear bushing in a vise and clamp it so you can spin the A arm. Twist around. In about one turn the bushing will be off.

Take the rear bushing out and flip it over and put it in from the front pointing toward the back. A press is the easiest way.

Put it back on the car.

Reallign it

Done

sperkins

It's a very time consuming job - especially if you've never done it before.

I have a set of arms (off the car) that already have Pfadt poly bushings installed. I'll swap for yours plus cash if you're interested.

RX-Ben

I always say this on this topic, so I will say it again, my mom installed Pfadt polys on my prior set of control arms a few years ago. I cut some of the bushings in half and yanked the dog bone bushings out (on a vice). She did the rest.

taken19

As others have said it's not too bad, just time consuming. Plan on spending the better part of a day on this. I needed machine shop help on two of the bushings (on the rear LCA's I think) since I have the most basic tools. Used a vise to install new ones.

sperkins

If you don't have them already, it would be smart to add locking camber blocks when you do the bushings.

waddisme

YES - very interested. Do you have both front uppers, as the passenger one is headed that way also. Are you talking about the Pfadt Camber adj kit? If I need to do that, I wouldn't mind doing it while I am at it.

Thanks.

JDIllon

The easiest way to get the old bushings out, is to cut off the end with a serrated knife. Then push them straight out with a vise. And the easiest way to install the new ones is with a 12" 5/8" threded rod and some nuts and washers. As shown in one the threads on the forum. Once I use these methods, it took less than an hour to do all of them. JD

sperkins

I have 7 of the 8 control arms ready to go at the moment. I'll have the other one done soon. I make my own camber blocks, but they're made with maximum offset to the max camber that the cradle will allow. Many of the local SE drivers use them. I have two sets available.

The Pfadt kit includes several blocks with varying offsets that allow some adjustment. Of all the vendor supplied camber kits, I think the Pfadt one is the best.

dvandentop

get the cheap press from harbor freight fro $120 it is worth it's weight in gold!!

i did my 1st set in a garage with no power and only a vice mounted on a 6x6 piece of wood and a torch, that was a fun mess!

thankfully my 2nd set i did for a friend was alot easier in my house with full power and good tools

waddisme

After calling my Mom yesterday (it was her birthday) and even though she can't come help, I think I am going to give it a shot. Do I need to do all at once or just do them as they need it?,

Also, do I really need the camber blocks? I track my car in advanced hpde 2 days a month and dd drive the rest of the time. I may pm David Farmer as he does my alignment.

froggy47

Here is a vid of my doing the rear upper install with hand tools, they are all about the same. You do not need to do them all at once.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j3K94lODO00&feature=plcp

waddisme

Already watched . Definitely getting the ball joint separator tool, buy or rent. Friend has a press to get old ones out, and will make the Home Depot tool to install. I am sure I will be back for more help.

sperkins

The really is no need to buy a ball joint tool. The uppers come apart with very little effort from a pry bar. Use a hammer (strike the nut) for the lowers. Been doing it this way for years. Quick and easy.

froggy47

If you use the ball joint tool from HF another forum member and I found that the "throat" needs to be opened up about 1/4 inch with a die grinder to fit around the tapered part of the BJ to get it seated all the way on to pop it.


The upper DOES separate easily, on the lower I prefer not to "beat it off", it'll work but the alloy gets all dented up, I know because I've done it. It's just cosmetic, but still leaves the arm looking like you wrapped the car around a pole or something.

sperkins

You're not supposed to hit the alloy (the arm). Unscrew the nut to the top of the ball joint stud so you don't mess up the threads and hit that.