Help trying to get the driving position set
#1
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Help trying to get the driving position set
i like to have the steering wheel closer to me than the factory column goes (2007 c6) also I dont like the height difference between the gas and brake pedals.
I could add a spacer to the back of the gas pedal to even them out but that doesnt help the steering wheel position.
I was wondering if anyone has cut the brake pedal off and then welded in a replacement at their preferred distance?
Ive got a sheet of 1/8" aluminum and can easily make replacement pedals
Any advice or experience with this or any solutions to get the column out further? btw this car has to pass state inspection so I cant put an aftermarket wheel on
thanks!
EDIT: One last thing - Ive noticed that the pedals have a slop to them (they can move side to side) is there a fix to this?
I could add a spacer to the back of the gas pedal to even them out but that doesnt help the steering wheel position.
I was wondering if anyone has cut the brake pedal off and then welded in a replacement at their preferred distance?
Ive got a sheet of 1/8" aluminum and can easily make replacement pedals
Any advice or experience with this or any solutions to get the column out further? btw this car has to pass state inspection so I cant put an aftermarket wheel on
thanks!
EDIT: One last thing - Ive noticed that the pedals have a slop to them (they can move side to side) is there a fix to this?
Last edited by el es tu; 09-30-2012 at 08:57 AM.
#2
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Location: Shenandoah Valley Virginia
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Can't help on the column problem. The pedals can be fixed using Elite Engineering pedal exensions. You can both raise and widen the gas pedal to bring it more in line with the brake for better heal and toe. They are not expensive, bolt on, and work well.
There are plastic bushings on the pedal pivots that can be replaced or shimmed to remove the side to side motion. They are a PITA to get to, better have long arms.
There are plastic bushings on the pedal pivots that can be replaced or shimmed to remove the side to side motion. They are a PITA to get to, better have long arms.
#3
I welded a 1/4" thick piece of aluminum on top of my factory brake pedal to raise it. I have yet to find a factory brake pedal that is high. Keep in mind that when you brake really hard on the track the pedal will go down a more than it does on the street. To get an idea where you want the pedal press on it as hard as you can and take a look at it relative to your throttle. I'll bet it is slightly lower which is not what you want.
#5
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Location: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
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I welded a 1/4" thick piece of aluminum on top of my factory brake pedal to raise it. I have yet to find a factory brake pedal that is high. Keep in mind that when you brake really hard on the track the pedal will go down a more than it does on the street. To get an idea where you want the pedal press on it as hard as you can and take a look at it relative to your throttle. I'll bet it is slightly lower which is not what you want.
Bill
#6
Even level can be a problem. I have had instances in the past where my foot pressed the throttle enough to reduce stopping power quite a bit. Having a throttle pedal too close to the brake pedal makes it worse. For me, I prefer to rotate my foot a bit when blipping the throttle while braking in order to match rpms. I even had a time on one particular race car where we moved the brake too high during a race weekend and I had to brake with my heel and blip the throtte with my foot. There just wasn't enough time to get it all dialed in so I did what i had to do.
Things like pedals, shifter, steering wheel, and seat position are often overlooked. It can take many, many hours for one to get them all dialed in to where the are most comortable. It makes a difference in driving once a driver is very comfortable. I probably adusted my seat position on my hardbar rails at least a dozen times before I got it right. I actually drilled more holes to get it where I liked it best.
Making a shifter taller helps too. Don't ever be fooled by those ultra short shifter sticks. Probably one of the worst things you can do to your transmission. Of course on a street car it would be pretty silly to have the shifter way up high by the steering wheel, but even a little bit helps.
Things like pedals, shifter, steering wheel, and seat position are often overlooked. It can take many, many hours for one to get them all dialed in to where the are most comortable. It makes a difference in driving once a driver is very comfortable. I probably adusted my seat position on my hardbar rails at least a dozen times before I got it right. I actually drilled more holes to get it where I liked it best.
Making a shifter taller helps too. Don't ever be fooled by those ultra short shifter sticks. Probably one of the worst things you can do to your transmission. Of course on a street car it would be pretty silly to have the shifter way up high by the steering wheel, but even a little bit helps.
#7
Safety Car
Thread Starter
What I really want to do is to make the brake go inward and keep the gas where its at. Im very familiar with the brake pedal going to the floor - I think shortening the length will actually help in these situations, along with making it fit better (my main goal). Additionally, I think this would bring the wheel close enough (after I can move myself further forward) and give a perfect driving position.
thanks!
thanks!