rithsleeper

So if you all remember I was debating making my own hitch and what the best brake contoller is and everything. Well I think I did pretty well. taking almost all your advice on how to be as safe as possible so now I need some advice rigging. Once again I know the truck is not the ideal tow vehicle but thats all I can afford right now.

I have installed (or everything but brake lights) a P3 brake controller, got a curt class 3 reciever, and a curt WD Hitch.

Before anything, I realize I have some adjusting to do because the truck and trailer are not on level ground but that will have to wait till the weekend.

First question is about the chain setup. The previous owner for the trailer had the emergency brake cable woven in one of the chains and was hooking it onto the reciever hooks, to me that seems if the hitch breaks then the system wont activate. Shouldn't it be separated and attached to the vehicle, in my case the old bumper where it is laying in the pic?


Next, what about the trunnion chain levers. I assume this is how they are supposed to be put on, and because all the pressure is down, I don't see how they could ever come loose, however should I box this area in with a steel plate, then drill a hole for the bolt to go through to where it sits currently?



Finally, how tight should I have these suckers? Just till the truck levels out or so the truck is slightly forward, or slightly back? I'm sure I can adjust to an extent but it seems there will always be slightly angled either way. I had to put some umph unto it to get it where it is now and as close to even as I could today.





I have to hand it to curt, this was the easiest install I've ever done on a hitch (once I got the rusted bolts out). I can't believe it cleared my option bumper. (yea I know my wiring job is halfway done, it will be nice by this weekend...)



Thanks everyone for your input. and if you see anything else I need to address please tell me. (other than having an under-powered truck...)

c4cruiser

The safety chains should definitely be attached to the towing vehicle. Most receivers have holes/slots for safety chains. The chains should be crossed and if they are too long, they can be twisted up just enough to provide ground clearance.

The chains in the pics look pretty skinny. I would exchange them for some thing like a Grade 43 chain. The first link of a new shain can be welded to the trailer frame just like it shows. The hook can be just about any style; use the large quick link that you have or get a pair of sling hooks with latches. Make sure the hooks are the same weight rating as n the new chain or even a higher rating.

The breakaway cable should also hook to the tow vehicle. That connector should be OK, just find a place to attach it. You can use one of the eyes on the receiver

c4cruiser

On another note, make sure the breakaway battery on the trailer is in good shape. It should always show a voltage of 12.6 to 12.8. You didn't say how old the trailer is but it may not be a bad idea to simply replace the battery. I usually take the battery out from my trailer during the winter months when I don't use the trailer and store it inside.

The location of the harness connector is interesting! You probably should have mounted it so that the connector is horizontal and easily accessible. With it mounted vertically, there is always a chance the trailer harness can come loose and fall. And you don't want the trailer cable to hang so low that it would drag on the ground.

rithsleeper

Thanks for the advice. Ill get a heavier chain and connect to reciever instead of the wd hitch. I checked the battery out first thing when i bought the trailer and it looks good. As for the connector there isnt really a good place to mount without big modification to rear of the truck. I will make sure it doesnt drag, but it wont fall out, on the cover of the plug there is a heavy spring and the cover itself actually has a lip that goes behind the plug once it is in so it cant come out unless the cover is pulled back, and it is a really tight fit if that fails. Ill make sure the wire is secured so not to drag the ground.

Any advice on the trunnion chain levers? They seem secure but at the same time they seem like an arcaic method, but as long as it works, oh well...

Do you guys change tire pressure when towing? My side walls look a little loose when the weight goes on...

c4cruiser

On the trunnion bars and chains. the bar should be parallel to the tongue rails once the trailer is loaded. If you didn't get a install guide for the Curt WD hitch, you can get one from the Curt website for the specific model of hitch. The instructions show how to measure the height of the top of the truck wheelwells from the ground and what the measurement should be after the loaded trailer is hooked up.

Basically, there should be very little change in the ride height of the truck once the WD hitch is assembled properly and you have the car in the proper location for the right tongue weight. If there is a change in the truk height, it will be about an inch down in the rear and something like a 1/2 to 1: down in the front. The ideal setup is to have the loaded trailer level and to have the truck sitting just like it would appear when unloaded.

The bar chains themselves should be vertical when under tension. You may have to move the clamps to get the chains to be vertical. Also there should be a clip that goes into the hole in the side of the chain clamp. The pins will keep the hinged C-clamp from coming loose. Make sure the one bottom chain link where it attaches to the c-clamp on the trunnion bar is loose.

Bill Dearborn

The breakaway cable should be separate from any of the chains or cables. It should be fastened to the receiver that is solidly mounted to the truck. If the hitch pulls out of the receiver or the trailer breaks free from the hitch you want that thing fastened to a point that will pull the plug out of the safety switch.

The safety chains should also be fastened to the receiver and crossed. As somebody else said twist them to take up any slack. If the trailer breaks away from the hitch the trailer tongue will drop into the V of the chains and keep it from dragging on the ground. If that fails and the trailer comes completely free that is when the breakaway cable pulls the plug out and applies the trailer brakes.

It is a redundant system with the chains and the breakaway switch but I have seen when a receiver broke and before the tow vehicle could come to a stop the safety chains ground through as the trailer tongue pushed them into the ground. Without the breakaway switch the trailer would have been completely out of control when the chains let go.

Bill

rithsleeper

Ok, like i said ill get it on level ground and do all the measuring. Now one more question...

I have a very steep entrance to my driveway that is like a 15% grade plus the drainage runoff dip at the next to the road. Its only for about 8ft then it levels out. However thats a big dip for even my small trailer and i imagine it would put a huge stress on those trunion bars when my truck is flat on the road and the trailer tires are 3ft above it... should i leave the bars disconnected and then connect. 8 them once on flat road? If I do that, the hitch and reciever from the extra weight will scrape super bad. So bad i might even loose traction with my rear wheels and get stuck... any ideas on that? (Besides a new drive way)

JDIllon

Hook it all up and try to approach the driveway at an angle so as to reduce the grade and the angle. The bars are made to flex it won't hurt them. Also be sure that you have at least 300 to 500lbs of tongue weight on the hitch. You can do this by positioning the car. You can reduce the pressure it takes to hook up the bars by jacking up the trailer while it is hooked to the truck, this will raise the rear truck and in turn make it take less pressure to hook up the tortion chains. JD

c4cruiser

Is there a way to put the car on the trailer out in the street? That could save trying to negotiate the steep driveway and not having to risk getting stuck or damaging the hitch components. I can easily load/unload my car when the trailer is on the street.

I also have a fairly steep driveway and I can't get my 20' enclosed trailer up the driveway when it's connected with my Curt WD hitch. So I use a regular slug with a ball and that clears easily But my pickup is an '08 Silverado 4x4 so I most likely have much more ground clearance compared to your truck.

rithsleeper

Thats a good idea, dont know why id didnt think of that. Right now until i finish rebuilding my 328's engine i am keeping the car on the trailer. I can unload though then reload in the street.