starkynuke

I have a 2005 z51 C6. Currently the car is performance stock and takes no points for anything other than tires.

As a TTA car I was (Base), +7 (asterisk), +10 (Conti Grand Am scrubs), +1 (305/660r18's in rear).
As a TTS car I was 3430lbs/339hp (10.11 ratio), -.75 (Conti Grand Am scrubs) giving me a 9.36:1 adjusted ratio.

I have a complete set of Z51 shocks and Z06 shocks as well as Z51 and Z06 rear leaf spring I can interchange.

I have run 2 events in TT now and am looking ahead to the 2013 rules. I do not plan on running any aero or doing anything other than minimal bolt-ons (one of those guys who races on a tight budget).

If I add an intake and tune I could bump up to 350 rwhp (?), at 3430lbs, and run my 305 G.A.C's I'd be at 9.05:1 for TT3 and could install all my Z06 shocks/spring (it does feel better than the z51)

Is there a better way to approach this? I'm open to tire size suggestions, mod recommendations, really anything. I'm a relative rookie to classing and it's maneuvering. TTA currently has 6-8 cars depending on weekend and TTS only has 3-4.

JRL

That would work, but I think you would be better off on Hoosier A6's. Great tire for TT, almost as quick as slicks w/o the hit and great Hoosier contingency and then lose weight and/or add power.


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John

RX-Ben

Run 275 A6s to get the extra .4 bump.

starkynuke

I know tire longevity is entirely based on driving style, alignment, specific track, etc HOWEVER what sort of sessions are people getting out of a set of Hoosiers?

My GT-O Conti Grand Ams are lasting me 4 events (25-28 sessions/heat cycles). That means I have to buy 3 sets of scrubs a year because I only do one event a month with NASA. That's within the budget.

starkynuke

I thought the "VRL" Hoosiers and G.A.C's took the same -.75 penalty on weight/hp adjustment?

JRL

A6's are considered DOT R Comps, VRL's are slicks


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John

crimlwC6

Hoosiers are significantly better than the grandams. I dont know how you get that many cycles out of them. Maybe I got a bad patch but I hated the last set I ran. Ideally you'd have two sets of wheels and run your best set once or twice a day. Ask around the club to find some cheap wheels. Use all available points for tires, if you have any left over drop weight or get a tune that focuses on torque.
Most importantly, concede positions to short dudes on red c5s.

crimlwC6

Oh, and does the install of z06 suspension cost you points? Run it if it makes the car feel better. If you can swing a tune that's free power that can be tailored to not exceed your hp limit but free up torque under the curve.

geerookie

Not correct when talking about race tires! Heat cycles period!

If you are getting 25 - 28 heat cycles out of a tire with low (less than 1second/lap) drop off in times then you need to learn to drive faster! Slicks will fall off at least 4 seconds a lap after 3 - 5 heat cycles.

clubracer6

Yes, there is a better way to approach this! Buy my ST2 car and win ST3 or ST2 Championships next year! I'd take your car on partial trade!

Jason

This is the cheapest, most competitive choice.

crimlwC6

I dont think slicks fall off that much. The tracks are I run typically are less than 2 miles so maybe that is the difference from geerookie's comment. 2 cents.

geerookie

Agreed. On shorter tracks you won't see as big a time difference but what really matters is the percentage of time lost.
So if I run a 3.6 mile track at 2:02.xx with new tires and 2:07.xx with old then that is a 4% loss of time.

If I run a 1.35 mile track at 00:57.5 with new and 1:.00.xx with old that is a 4.2% loss so even though it is only half the time of drop off it's actually a greater loss. At shorter tracks the mechanical grip is more important.
And just for the record those are actual times from real tracks.

starkynuke

As for the tires getting slower, that's not really a huge issue just yet. I gain and lose more time because of experimenting with my line and learning than anything. I still have tons of learning to do before I'm going to be consistent enough to measure quite a few of the car's variables.

I couldn't agree with you more! Seeing as my track car is my ride home and being only 17 months into this, I'm still more cautious that I have to be.

You have no idea how much I like that idea. Problem being I'm still paying on my C6 and like the dual-function of it.

Any recommendations on where to get tuned?

starkynuke

So, if I'm gathering this correctly, the general direction is:
- DOT Hoosiers
- Trim weight and add hp to get my ratio maxed out.

If I had to choose just one bolt-on what should I go with? I feel like an intake would get me 10-15 rwhp (or at least that's what Halltech is claiming for their Venom product) and get my car pretty close to that 9:1 mark.

Jason

Clutch and flywheel.

sperkins

"UN" bolt-on weight instead.

heavychevy

Disagree.

Buy some scrub hoosier R6's with a couple of HC from a DE driver and then buy some from a T1 racer with qualy and a race on them. I will bet you go faster on the DE tires. Or better yet even auto-x tires with 10 passes on them can be better than the T1 tires.

geerookie

geerookie

Removing weight until you get to the minimum is ALWAYS better than adding HP.