rithsleeper

The rear of the trailer is 20", the ramps are going to be 10' long once i build them (its about all the metal i can afford), my wheel base is very close to 8', however my lowest point in mid of my car is 3 inches...

If my math is correct the angle of aproach will be over 9* but the max it can be is only 3.57*... i bet gt cars are as low as this, so i guess they would scrape...

Can someone check my math?

0Fred@ReverseLogic

Your 3.57 degree calculation needs to be doubled. You calculated that angle using an "opposite side" of 3" and and "adjacent side" of 48" (half the wheelbase).

A 10 foot ramp will give you an incline of almost 10 degrees. So you need to pick up about 3 degrees by either extending the ramp, or using a "humper" ramp. If your 10 foot ramps are not ladder style and have a flat surface you can put the humper ramps on the ramps. Otherwise you would have to put them on the trailer bed.

I have some Race Ramps humper ramps that are 14" wide by 18" long by 2" high. They are also available in 24" length. The 18" ramps run about $50/pair. You won't find these at many resellers. I don't have them listed on my website but I have a couple of pairs in stock.

rithsleeper

Ok, i got it. I was calculating where the middle of my car, not entire base, i see now. Thought something was fishy. Ok, i will try looking for the "humper" ramps, i think i know what you mean and have seen others using them.

Im going to have to look and see how my front would react to a humper ramp. Do c4s have problems with clearance? Could you quote me for a pair sent to 29150?

crease-guard

Funny to see someone else with this problem. I bought an enclosed trailer but didn't check the width between the wheel wells and found out it was about 3 inches too narrow so I couldn't get the car in. I decided to have some ramps built and wanted to make sure the car would go up the ramps without hanging on them. Had to pull out the Trig and Geometry books to make the calculations.

For a 4" ride height, I needed about 8.5* of angle. Ended up making two sections of about 4.25* so it would gradually roll up. Worked out great and makes tying the car down a snap since I can now get under the car.

Jay

0Fred@ReverseLogic

PM sent

AU N EGL

buy some 2"x12"x 48" pressure treated lumber. lay those boards on top of the ramps you have.

those will lift the nose of your car up 2" more when starting to drive up the ramp.

0Fred@ReverseLogic

Just make sure no one is standing within 50 feet of the trailer so that the boards have a chance to slow down when they go flying across the parking lot.

Bill Dearborn

I have 10 ft ramps to get on my trailer. They are made in two sections a 6 ft section and a 4 ft section. The 6 ft ramp bridges between the trailer and the 4 ft. ramp. The 4 ft section is a lower slope than the 6 ft section so the front bumper clears the ramp and starts to lift away from it as the tire comes up on the lower section. If you look at it from the side the front bumper travels in an upward arc as the wheel proceeds up the ramp.

Bill

0Fred@ReverseLogic

How high is your trailer bed? The OP has a relatively high trailer with a 20" bed height.

Doing the two stage incline you describe is usually the most economical set up. My experience is that the incline on the first section has to be at least 2/3 of the incline on the second section. So a 7 degree plus a 10 degree will probably work. Whereas, a 5 degree plus 10 degree will probably have the car plowing into the second part of the ramp.

C&M Racing

Jacking the front of the trailer will reduce angle. I leave mine connected to the truck and just go up a few inches. Another option is to place wood under trucks rear tires.

AU N EGL

guess you have never done it.

Works just fine.

Corvee

What is the distance from the inside front wheel to the front of the car? If you have 3.0" of clearance in front of the wheels, you probably do not need 10' ramps if you use a transition ramp to the steel ramps.

0Fred@ReverseLogic

The approach angle is only one of the issues facing the OP. The transition angle for the two-stage incline ramp you suggest is a separate issue. And the breakover angle getting onto the trailer bed is yet another obstacle. The departure angle can also be a problem in some cases.

The OP's initial concern is the breakover angle because of the low hanging exhaust system between the front and rear axles. The 10 foot ramp is already too steep for a useable breakover angle.

The thing that makes this case particularly difficult is the high trailer bed height.

2 GTOs

So at the risk of hijacking here, lowered c5, 22 inch deck height, any chance of getting the car on with an 11 ft ramp? If not, how long extensions would I need? I appeciate I can't have an exact answer because I don't have exact height measurements.

0Fred@ReverseLogic

An 11 foot ramp with a 22" high deck translates into a 9 to 10 degree incline depending upon how close to the ground the top surface of the ramp is at the beginning of the ramp.

9 to 10 degrees is not going to work with a lowered C5. The RR-TR-7 or RR-TR-8XL ramps would probably work in conjunction with your 11 foot ramps.

You need to tell us the approach angle on the lowered C5 for a more precise response.

2 GTOs

PM sent so I don't continue to hijack.

AU N EGL

I just put 4 more PSI into the front tires, that is about 1/4" more clearance from the splitter to the door ramp.

Let the air out and adjust as needed.

rear door and ramps about 11'




the splitter has normally 3" of ground clearance. and about 1/4" of clearance when coming off the ramps to the door.

0Fred@ReverseLogic

How high is your trailer bed at the rear door? It looks like your trailer might have an integrated beaver tail which also helps. My guess is that your trailer is at least 4" lower than the OP's trailer and your ramps are longer too.

AU N EGL

Normal Auto trailer deck height with beaver tail

have 4" rubber bumper/blocks on the outside top of door/ramp, then the 60" ramp extensions
which fold onto the door/ramp