HPDE alignment?
#1
HPDE alignment?
I have a 2008 Z51 and will be running an HPDE. I was told to add some negative camber, and add toe out to the front and toe in to the rear as follows:
Front
Camber -1.6
Caster 7.9
Toe -0.15
Rear
Camber -1.0
Toe +0.09
Any comments would be appreciated.
Front
Camber -1.6
Caster 7.9
Toe -0.15
Rear
Camber -1.0
Toe +0.09
Any comments would be appreciated.
#2
Melting Slicks
That's a good starting place.
It depends on what tires you are using and how hard you are driving. Grippier tires and harder drivers will need more negative camber (about -.4 deg more).
But I'd start where you are since if you don't do that much you will ruin your front tires in pretty short order.
Watch the wear on the outside front tire and as you progress to grippier tires and learn to drive to the max capability of the car you can add some more.
The toe out will eat tires on the street, so you should mark the tie rods and turn them equally a turn or a turn and a towards toe in for street driving and then turn them to toe out on the track.
It depends on what tires you are using and how hard you are driving. Grippier tires and harder drivers will need more negative camber (about -.4 deg more).
But I'd start where you are since if you don't do that much you will ruin your front tires in pretty short order.
Watch the wear on the outside front tire and as you progress to grippier tires and learn to drive to the max capability of the car you can add some more.
The toe out will eat tires on the street, so you should mark the tie rods and turn them equally a turn or a turn and a towards toe in for street driving and then turn them to toe out on the track.
#3
Race Director
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Take a look at these recommendations from the guys at Pfadt Racing.
http://www.pfadtracing.com/blog/wp-c...-9.12.2011.pdf
Good luck!
Bill
http://www.pfadtracing.com/blog/wp-c...-9.12.2011.pdf
Good luck!
Bill
#4
Race Director
with Bill - Pfadt's alignment data is very good!!
Just be sure to note the info at the top of their page where they say "Negative toe measurements indicate toe-in".
And, their recommendations include toe in up front, whereas many owners that track their cars (including me) will set toe out up front for turn-in.
Most alignment shops use "negative" to indicate toe out, so be sure to highlight that info if you take the Pfadt data to your shop (or note it yourself if you do DIY alignments).
Bob
Just be sure to note the info at the top of their page where they say "Negative toe measurements indicate toe-in".
And, their recommendations include toe in up front, whereas many owners that track their cars (including me) will set toe out up front for turn-in.
Most alignment shops use "negative" to indicate toe out, so be sure to highlight that info if you take the Pfadt data to your shop (or note it yourself if you do DIY alignments).
Bob
Last edited by BEZ06; 11-11-2012 at 09:30 AM.
#5
That's a good starting place.
It depends on what tires you are using and how hard you are driving. Grippier tires and harder drivers will need more negative camber (about -.4 deg more).
But I'd start where you are since if you don't do that much you will ruin your front tires in pretty short order.
Watch the wear on the outside front tire and as you progress to grippier tires and learn to drive to the max capability of the car you can add some more.
The toe out will eat tires on the street, so you should mark the tie rods and turn them equally a turn or a turn and a towards toe in for street driving and then turn them to toe out on the track.
It depends on what tires you are using and how hard you are driving. Grippier tires and harder drivers will need more negative camber (about -.4 deg more).
But I'd start where you are since if you don't do that much you will ruin your front tires in pretty short order.
Watch the wear on the outside front tire and as you progress to grippier tires and learn to drive to the max capability of the car you can add some more.
The toe out will eat tires on the street, so you should mark the tie rods and turn them equally a turn or a turn and a towards toe in for street driving and then turn them to toe out on the track.
#6
with Bill - Pfadt's alignment data is very good!!
Just be sure to note the info at the top of their page where they say "Negative toe measurements indicate toe-in".
And, their recommendations include toe in up front, whereas many owners that track their cars (including me) will set toe out up front for turn-in.
Most alignment shops use "negative" to indicate toe out, so be sure to highlight that info if you take the Pfadt data to your shop (or note it yourself if you do DIY alignments).
Bob
Just be sure to note the info at the top of their page where they say "Negative toe measurements indicate toe-in".
And, their recommendations include toe in up front, whereas many owners that track their cars (including me) will set toe out up front for turn-in.
Most alignment shops use "negative" to indicate toe out, so be sure to highlight that info if you take the Pfadt data to your shop (or note it yourself if you do DIY alignments).
Bob
#7
Melting Slicks
I set 1/8 of an inch of total toe IN for street driving and mark the tie rods with a stripe of nail polish then turn each tie rod one full turn towards toe out for track duty. The amount of toe out you want is like salt or pepper. Season to taste... If you want more toe out on the track try a bit more...
#8
Melting Slicks
#9
To add toe out you rotate the tie rod counter clockwise looking from the inside towards the outside of the car. To say it another way, the tie rod ends are both normal right hand threads. Just think about is as the tie rod end being fixed and you are unscrewing the tie rod from it with normal threads.
I set 1/8 of an inch of total toe IN for street driving and mark the tie rods with a stripe of nail polish then turn each tie rod one full turn towards toe out for track duty. The amount of toe out you want is like salt or pepper. Season to taste... If you want more toe out on the track try a bit more...
I set 1/8 of an inch of total toe IN for street driving and mark the tie rods with a stripe of nail polish then turn each tie rod one full turn towards toe out for track duty. The amount of toe out you want is like salt or pepper. Season to taste... If you want more toe out on the track try a bit more...
#10
Melting Slicks
I did go thru the geometry once and figured that it was either a half or a full turn on each side was a change that was worth about 1/4 of an inch in total toe change, or from 1/8 in to 1/8 out... I just don't remember the math, but that's what I recall. And about 1 turn seems to give you a manageable amount of toe out, but that's going by feel on A6's. Like I said, you may want more or less, depending on how you want the car to handle.
Last edited by Solofast; 11-11-2012 at 04:31 PM.
#11
#12
Drifting
I'd also reassess how many hpde's you plan to do...if only 1 or 2 per year, then the pfadt agressive street specs might make more sense than the more aggressive, hpde focused set up.