C4 Shocks for AX/Track
11-16-2012, 06:48 PM
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
C4 Shocks for AX/Track
I've just gotten into AX and track days this year, and picked up a 92 6spd with base FX3 suspension for that purpose (haven't tracked it yet). The FX3 is hosed and giving me codes on all but one corner. I want to keep the car as stock as possible until my skills catch up with the car. However, this car will be mainly dedicated to AX/track and maybe as a commuter to keep the miles off my 2000 and better mpg than my SUV. I don't care about comfort on the street, if it's too uncomfortable because of the setup, then I select another vehicle in the mornings! Oh and for now, I plan to torture street tires. I'm not looking to dump a ton of cash on this while I'm learning, but I also don't want to cheap out; bang-for-the-buck is the way I look at it. Over the winter, I will be replacing all the bushings, upgrading to J55 front brakes, and doing something with the shocks. I don't plan to formally compete any time soon, but would like to stay in BS (not 100% firm on it though).
So, on to my suspension questions:
Should I just repair the FX3?
PROS: I could learn the car as it came from GM, if I ever sell or drive on the street, FX3 is an attractive option.
CONS: price - the cost to rebuild all 4 shocks and actuators (well 3 actuators worst case, one of them works for sure). Even with the Moracca(?) valving, how competitive would it be? I would guess upping to Z07 springs and bars would be the best but I would estimate that route to be what, $1500 give or take?
Should I scrap the FX3 and just go with some good non-FX3 adjustable shocks? Which ones would be close to the FX3 on full stiff?
What about coil-overs? Yeah I know that puts me in BSP, and I hear that they're not that much better than Z07 with moracca valving. But if I'm going that route then I can just use c5 brakes which I understand to be a little better than J55 with better pad/rotor availability and prices.
So, for you track/AX experienced c4 guys- if you were in my shoes:
1. What would be ideal if I want to stay in BS?
2. What would be ideal period?
Thanks!
So, on to my suspension questions:
Should I just repair the FX3?
PROS: I could learn the car as it came from GM, if I ever sell or drive on the street, FX3 is an attractive option.
CONS: price - the cost to rebuild all 4 shocks and actuators (well 3 actuators worst case, one of them works for sure). Even with the Moracca(?) valving, how competitive would it be? I would guess upping to Z07 springs and bars would be the best but I would estimate that route to be what, $1500 give or take?
Should I scrap the FX3 and just go with some good non-FX3 adjustable shocks? Which ones would be close to the FX3 on full stiff?
What about coil-overs? Yeah I know that puts me in BSP, and I hear that they're not that much better than Z07 with moracca valving. But if I'm going that route then I can just use c5 brakes which I understand to be a little better than J55 with better pad/rotor availability and prices.
So, for you track/AX experienced c4 guys- if you were in my shoes:
1. What would be ideal if I want to stay in BS?
2. What would be ideal period?
Thanks!
11-16-2012, 07:15 PM
#2
Team Owner
If you have just started doing autocross events, I would install a good set of Bilstein Z51 shocks, replace any worn out parts in the suspension and get lots of seat time. After a year's worth of events, you may be in a better position to understand what mods will make the car handle better and seat time makes you a better driver.
Carefully check the rule book to see if any of your suspension or brake mods will take you out of a stock class and into something like BSP. While I like the FX3 suspension, I don't think you can get the custom controller and PROM from Doug Rippie any longer. That custom chip can really enhance the Morraca valving, but you may wind up in a modified class.
Personally, I would go with the Bilstein shocks, get bigger sway bars, rebuild the suspension (maybe use poly bushing everywhere) and go with a good set of performance pads (do J55 or C5 later).
One thing you should look at is the Banski rear suspension components. I installed both the Camber Rod kit and the Tore Rod kit on my 87 htis spring and it made a huge difference in handling.
Mods like this will take you out of a stock class, but just enter whatever class you fall in and get as much seat time as you can. Then you can work up with more suspension mods and slicks.
Did I mention lots of seat time??
Carefully check the rule book to see if any of your suspension or brake mods will take you out of a stock class and into something like BSP. While I like the FX3 suspension, I don't think you can get the custom controller and PROM from Doug Rippie any longer. That custom chip can really enhance the Morraca valving, but you may wind up in a modified class.
Personally, I would go with the Bilstein shocks, get bigger sway bars, rebuild the suspension (maybe use poly bushing everywhere) and go with a good set of performance pads (do J55 or C5 later).
One thing you should look at is the Banski rear suspension components. I installed both the Camber Rod kit and the Tore Rod kit on my 87 htis spring and it made a huge difference in handling.
Mods like this will take you out of a stock class, but just enter whatever class you fall in and get as much seat time as you can. Then you can work up with more suspension mods and slicks.
Did I mention lots of seat time??
11-16-2012, 07:47 PM
#3
Melting Slicks
You are far better off keeping the car stock and running it in a stock class. All of the above mods put in into a SP class or beyond. If you do that, and don't follow it up with a lot of even more expensive mods you will be way outclassed and it's no fun to be uncompetitive.
I'd just get a set of Z07 springs and bars and go with a set of Koni's. Then go to the 10.5 in rims all around and you will have a good handling, competitive car right off the bat, and it will be something you can run for years that way with very little additional cost. Just fool the FX shocks and use the single adjustable Koni's and be done with it...
I'd just get a set of Z07 springs and bars and go with a set of Koni's. Then go to the 10.5 in rims all around and you will have a good handling, competitive car right off the bat, and it will be something you can run for years that way with very little additional cost. Just fool the FX shocks and use the single adjustable Koni's and be done with it...
11-16-2012, 07:58 PM
#4
Safety Car
Your not going to be able to stay in B Stock with anything than rubber bushing. FYI.
Don't worry about the J55 brakes just yet. You don't need them for auto-x. I would flush all the fluids, especially the brake fluid. USE DOT4 ONLY. I boiled FRESH DOT3 at an auto-x drivers school on the stock 12" brakes. LF caliper to be exact.
The FX3 works good, but is a tad soft in my opinion. The Morroca valving as you stated is a good upgrade as well as a controller if available. However, I was thinking of going this route as well, but you CANNOT change the shocks front to rear. You get the same all around. For this reason I will probably ditch the FX3 in the near future a year or two and go with a set of Koni Sports (excellent on C4's) or a set of single adjustable QA1's. I'll keep the FX3 stuff if I want to go back to stock.
You can change the handling traits a bit by tuning the shocks ie. stiffer front, than rear. So individual adjustable are great for this.
Coilovers would put you in BP not BSP. They are illegal for a C4 in BSP has to be stock type spring. Leafs only. Hard to run a C4 in BS unless you have a factory Z07/Z51 car. Mine will be a mild BSP when I'm done.
Z07 springs and bars I'm spending about 1000 to upgrade my car to Z07 specs. this winter with all used stuff off of salvage cars. Luckily for us the springs don't really wear out. Fiberglass rocks!!!!
FYI, they are hard to find. The FSK front spring and 30mm bar are difficult to find. NYU spring is easy, any 85-95 Z51/Z07 rear spring.
My first FULL season I ran half worn out 9 year old tires I got for cheap, did an alignment, make sure the car was reliable-new hoses, belts, fluids, etc...then I drove the snot out of it.
Your wise to drive what you have at first. Your skills will improve a lot. Mine did. I still have a ways to go, but I went from dead last to nearly running with the R-comp. tired cars. At least in my local club.
If I where you:
Make it reliable.
Put on the Bilstien Z51 shocks (will last you a long time, even with later upgrades, then upgrade shocks)
ALIGNMENT!!!! BIG TIME HELP.
Get as much camber up front with as much caster as you can get. I run my toe at zero. In rear I ran only -.5 degrees of camber, found I need more rear grip. -1.25 to -1.50 degrees was recommended to me. I'll run -1.25 and see how it is. Run the toe IN to limit of specs. for the back as well.
Then run the crap out of it.
SEAT TIME, SEAT TIME.
A couple last tips for running street tired basically stock C4.
1. Get into 2nd as quick as you can. Use the mid range torque, these cars can boogy. 1st is too short, you'll just spin.
2. Even in 2nd, squeeze the throttle, DO NOT BAT at it. The rear end comes out EASY!!!
3. If your not already run 275's at all fours.
4. Be VERY patient in the slow corners they want to push, slow down and let the car turn, you'll be faster.
5.Something I CANNOT over emphasize, SMOOTH, SMOOTH, SMOOTH. Street tires WILL NOT mask bad driving, mistakes the way R-comps. do. If you want to be fast, you have to be smooth. You cannot be TOO aggressive with these cars on street tires.
6. LOOK AHEAD my at least 2 cone elements.
7. Listen to the street tires, they talk to you. A little bit of squeal is good. Your at the limit. Anything over that your loosing time, scrubbing speed, and going slow. Listen for it in my video. No more than this.
Enjoy my bad driving....
Don't worry about the J55 brakes just yet. You don't need them for auto-x. I would flush all the fluids, especially the brake fluid. USE DOT4 ONLY. I boiled FRESH DOT3 at an auto-x drivers school on the stock 12" brakes. LF caliper to be exact.
The FX3 works good, but is a tad soft in my opinion. The Morroca valving as you stated is a good upgrade as well as a controller if available. However, I was thinking of going this route as well, but you CANNOT change the shocks front to rear. You get the same all around. For this reason I will probably ditch the FX3 in the near future a year or two and go with a set of Koni Sports (excellent on C4's) or a set of single adjustable QA1's. I'll keep the FX3 stuff if I want to go back to stock.
You can change the handling traits a bit by tuning the shocks ie. stiffer front, than rear. So individual adjustable are great for this.
Coilovers would put you in BP not BSP. They are illegal for a C4 in BSP has to be stock type spring. Leafs only. Hard to run a C4 in BS unless you have a factory Z07/Z51 car. Mine will be a mild BSP when I'm done.
Z07 springs and bars I'm spending about 1000 to upgrade my car to Z07 specs. this winter with all used stuff off of salvage cars. Luckily for us the springs don't really wear out. Fiberglass rocks!!!!
FYI, they are hard to find. The FSK front spring and 30mm bar are difficult to find. NYU spring is easy, any 85-95 Z51/Z07 rear spring.
My first FULL season I ran half worn out 9 year old tires I got for cheap, did an alignment, make sure the car was reliable-new hoses, belts, fluids, etc...then I drove the snot out of it.
Your wise to drive what you have at first. Your skills will improve a lot. Mine did. I still have a ways to go, but I went from dead last to nearly running with the R-comp. tired cars. At least in my local club.
If I where you:
Make it reliable.
Put on the Bilstien Z51 shocks (will last you a long time, even with later upgrades, then upgrade shocks)
ALIGNMENT!!!! BIG TIME HELP.
Get as much camber up front with as much caster as you can get. I run my toe at zero. In rear I ran only -.5 degrees of camber, found I need more rear grip. -1.25 to -1.50 degrees was recommended to me. I'll run -1.25 and see how it is. Run the toe IN to limit of specs. for the back as well.
Then run the crap out of it.
SEAT TIME, SEAT TIME. A couple last tips for running street tired basically stock C4.
1. Get into 2nd as quick as you can. Use the mid range torque, these cars can boogy. 1st is too short, you'll just spin.
2. Even in 2nd, squeeze the throttle, DO NOT BAT at it. The rear end comes out EASY!!!
3. If your not already run 275's at all fours.
4. Be VERY patient in the slow corners they want to push, slow down and let the car turn, you'll be faster.
5.Something I CANNOT over emphasize, SMOOTH, SMOOTH, SMOOTH. Street tires WILL NOT mask bad driving, mistakes the way R-comps. do. If you want to be fast, you have to be smooth. You cannot be TOO aggressive with these cars on street tires.
6. LOOK AHEAD my at least 2 cone elements.
7. Listen to the street tires, they talk to you. A little bit of squeal is good. Your at the limit. Anything over that your loosing time, scrubbing speed, and going slow. Listen for it in my video. No more than this.
Enjoy my bad driving....
Last edited by 93Rubie; 11-16-2012 at 08:01 PM.
11-16-2012, 08:04 PM
#5
Le Mans Master
You are far better off keeping the car stock and running it in a stock class. All of the above mods put in into a SP class or beyond. If you do that, and don't follow it up with a lot of even more expensive mods you will be way outclassed and it's no fun to be uncompetitive.
I'd just get a set of Z07 springs and bars and go with a set of Koni's. Then go to the 10.5 in rims all around and you will have a good handling, competitive car right off the bat, and it will be something you can run for years that way with very little additional cost. Just fool the FX shocks and use the single adjustable Koni's and be done with it...
I'd just get a set of Z07 springs and bars and go with a set of Koni's. Then go to the 10.5 in rims all around and you will have a good handling, competitive car right off the bat, and it will be something you can run for years that way with very little additional cost. Just fool the FX shocks and use the single adjustable Koni's and be done with it...
My 92 handled like crap until I replaced every suspension bushing.
It was sloppy and was more of a suprise when it was in the middle of a turn
If you want 17" x 10" rims I'm your man. I've been slow in putting up what I have for sale. but I got a bunch, been switching to 18"
11-16-2012, 10:52 PM
#6
Pro
Thread Starter
If you have just started doing autocross events, I would install a good set of Bilstein Z51 shocks, replace any worn out parts in the suspension and get lots of seat time. After a year's worth of events, you may be in a better position to understand what mods will make the car handle better and seat time makes you a better driver.
Carefully check the rule book to see if any of your suspension or brake mods will take you out of a stock class and into something like BSP. While I like the FX3 suspension, I don't think you can get the custom controller and PROM from Doug Rippie any longer. That custom chip can really enhance the Morraca valving, but you may wind up in a modified class.
Personally, I would go with the Bilstein shocks, get bigger sway bars, rebuild the suspension (maybe use poly bushing everywhere) and go with a good set of performance pads (do J55 or C5 later).
One thing you should look at is the Banski rear suspension components. I installed both the Camber Rod kit and the Tore Rod kit on my 87 htis spring and it made a huge difference in handling.
Mods like this will take you out of a stock class, but just enter whatever class you fall in and get as much seat time as you can. Then you can work up with more suspension mods and slicks.
Did I mention lots of seat time??
Carefully check the rule book to see if any of your suspension or brake mods will take you out of a stock class and into something like BSP. While I like the FX3 suspension, I don't think you can get the custom controller and PROM from Doug Rippie any longer. That custom chip can really enhance the Morraca valving, but you may wind up in a modified class.
Personally, I would go with the Bilstein shocks, get bigger sway bars, rebuild the suspension (maybe use poly bushing everywhere) and go with a good set of performance pads (do J55 or C5 later).
One thing you should look at is the Banski rear suspension components. I installed both the Camber Rod kit and the Tore Rod kit on my 87 htis spring and it made a huge difference in handling.
Mods like this will take you out of a stock class, but just enter whatever class you fall in and get as much seat time as you can. Then you can work up with more suspension mods and slicks.
Did I mention lots of seat time??
11-16-2012, 10:54 PM
#7
Pro
Thread Starter
My 92 handled like crap until I replaced every suspension bushing.
It was sloppy and was more of a suprise when it was in the middle of a turn
If you want 17" x 10" rims I'm your man. I've been slow in putting up what I have for sale. but I got a bunch, been switching to 18"
11-16-2012, 10:57 PM
#8
Pro
Thread Starter
You are far better off keeping the car stock and running it in a stock class. All of the above mods put in into a SP class or beyond. If you do that, and don't follow it up with a lot of even more expensive mods you will be way outclassed and it's no fun to be uncompetitive.
I'd just get a set of Z07 springs and bars and go with a set of Koni's. Then go to the 10.5 in rims all around and you will have a good handling, competitive car right off the bat, and it will be something you can run for years that way with very little additional cost. Just fool the FX shocks and use the single adjustable Koni's and be done with it...
I'd just get a set of Z07 springs and bars and go with a set of Koni's. Then go to the 10.5 in rims all around and you will have a good handling, competitive car right off the bat, and it will be something you can run for years that way with very little additional cost. Just fool the FX shocks and use the single adjustable Koni's and be done with it...
11-16-2012, 11:10 PM
#9
Pro
Thread Starter
Your not going to be able to stay in B Stock with anything than rubber bushing.
Don't worry about the J55 brakes just yet.
The FX3 works good, but is a tad soft in my opinion. The Morroca valving as you stated is a good upgrade as well as a controller if available. However, I was thinking of going this route as well, but you CANNOT change the shocks front to rear. You get the same all around. For this reason I will probably ditch the FX3 in the near future a year or two and go with a set of Koni Sports (excellent on C4's) or a set of single adjustable QA1's.
My first FULL season I ran half worn out 9 year old tires I got for cheap, did an alignment, make sure the car was reliable-new hoses, belts, fluids, etc...then I drove the snot out of it.
If I where you:
Make it reliable.
Put on the Bilstien Z51 shocks (will last you a long time, even with later upgrades, then upgrade shocks)
ALIGNMENT!!!! BIG TIME HELP.
Get as much camber up front with as much caster as you can get. I run my toe at zero. In rear I ran only -.5 degrees of camber, found I need more rear grip. -1.25 to -1.50 degrees was recommended to me. I'll run -1.25 and see how it is. Run the toe IN to limit of specs. for the back as well.
Then run the crap out of it. SEAT TIME, SEAT TIME.
A couple last tips for running street tired basically stock C4.
1. Get into 2nd as quick as you can. Use the mid range torque, these cars can boogy. 1st is too short, you'll just spin.
2. Even in 2nd, squeeze the throttle, DO NOT BAT at it. The rear end comes out EASY!!!
3. If your not already run 275's at all fours.
4. Be VERY patient in the slow corners they want to push, slow down and let the car turn, you'll be faster.
5.Something I CANNOT over emphasize, SMOOTH, SMOOTH, SMOOTH. Street tires WILL NOT mask bad driving, mistakes the way R-comps. do. If you want to be fast, you have to be smooth. You cannot be TOO aggressive with these cars on street tires.
6. LOOK AHEAD my at least 2 cone elements.
7. Listen to the street tires, they talk to you. A little bit of squeal is good. Your at the limit. Anything over that your loosing time, scrubbing speed, and going slow. Listen for it in my video. No more than this.
Enjoy my bad driving....
Don't worry about the J55 brakes just yet.
The FX3 works good, but is a tad soft in my opinion. The Morroca valving as you stated is a good upgrade as well as a controller if available. However, I was thinking of going this route as well, but you CANNOT change the shocks front to rear. You get the same all around. For this reason I will probably ditch the FX3 in the near future a year or two and go with a set of Koni Sports (excellent on C4's) or a set of single adjustable QA1's.
My first FULL season I ran half worn out 9 year old tires I got for cheap, did an alignment, make sure the car was reliable-new hoses, belts, fluids, etc...then I drove the snot out of it.
If I where you:
Make it reliable.
Put on the Bilstien Z51 shocks (will last you a long time, even with later upgrades, then upgrade shocks)
ALIGNMENT!!!! BIG TIME HELP.
Get as much camber up front with as much caster as you can get. I run my toe at zero. In rear I ran only -.5 degrees of camber, found I need more rear grip. -1.25 to -1.50 degrees was recommended to me. I'll run -1.25 and see how it is. Run the toe IN to limit of specs. for the back as well.
Then run the crap out of it.
SEAT TIME, SEAT TIME. A couple last tips for running street tired basically stock C4.
1. Get into 2nd as quick as you can. Use the mid range torque, these cars can boogy. 1st is too short, you'll just spin.
2. Even in 2nd, squeeze the throttle, DO NOT BAT at it. The rear end comes out EASY!!!
3. If your not already run 275's at all fours.
4. Be VERY patient in the slow corners they want to push, slow down and let the car turn, you'll be faster.
5.Something I CANNOT over emphasize, SMOOTH, SMOOTH, SMOOTH. Street tires WILL NOT mask bad driving, mistakes the way R-comps. do. If you want to be fast, you have to be smooth. You cannot be TOO aggressive with these cars on street tires.
6. LOOK AHEAD my at least 2 cone elements.
7. Listen to the street tires, they talk to you. A little bit of squeal is good. Your at the limit. Anything over that your loosing time, scrubbing speed, and going slow. Listen for it in my video. No more than this.
Enjoy my bad driving....
J55: I have deemed it necessary cause I plan to do pdx/hpde with it; my c5 has all the fancy 2piece drilled slotted baer rotors and I still felt some fade on road ATL. I imagine the little 12" stockers would simply melt.
Bushings: so poly bushings bump me out of BS; well I've scoured everywhere to find rubber bushings, but the only place I can find them is at best off a 17yr old c4. If you know where a set can be found please let me know!!!
11-17-2012, 12:00 AM
#10
Race Director
Lot of info on this thread, here's my 2c.
I assume you are talking scca.
It will cost a fortune to replace the control arms IF you can even get them. The rubber is not sold separate from the control arm in any Corvette, ever.
Thanks GM.
So you are stuck with a class that allows poly/delrin/monoball bushings, that's good and bad.
Good in that they are all improvements over rubber, bad in that if there is a truly prepped car in your region that you run against he will be seconds ahead of you, not fun.
Shocks are FREE means any shock you like will be ok (maybe not 3 way adj but let's talk real world here).
I would get some KONI non adj shocks and leave the rest alone (unless the bushings are broken totally).
Get as much "seat time" as you can and talk to all the guys who have Vettes and who have been running for more than 3 or 4 years, we all love talking Vettes.
Then all the answers will be known.
On this forum you have guys from MANY different regions and many different levels of experience.
Mostly HAVE FUN!
It's hard not to, driving a Vette.
I forgot one thing, get an autox alignment, not stock, search it, there are MANY threads.
I assume you are talking scca.
It will cost a fortune to replace the control arms IF you can even get them. The rubber is not sold separate from the control arm in any Corvette, ever.
Thanks GM.
So you are stuck with a class that allows poly/delrin/monoball bushings, that's good and bad.
Good in that they are all improvements over rubber, bad in that if there is a truly prepped car in your region that you run against he will be seconds ahead of you, not fun.
Shocks are FREE means any shock you like will be ok (maybe not 3 way adj but let's talk real world here).
I would get some KONI non adj shocks and leave the rest alone (unless the bushings are broken totally).
Get as much "seat time" as you can and talk to all the guys who have Vettes and who have been running for more than 3 or 4 years, we all love talking Vettes.
Then all the answers will be known.
On this forum you have guys from MANY different regions and many different levels of experience.
Mostly HAVE FUN!
It's hard not to, driving a Vette.
I forgot one thing, get an autox alignment, not stock, search it, there are MANY threads.
Last edited by froggy47; 11-17-2012 at 12:08 AM.
11-17-2012, 08:24 AM
#11
Instructor
If you go with the J55 brakes, contact Doug Rippie Motorsports and order a set of the stainless steel pistons for the front calipers. They don't transfer as much heat to the fluid as the stock aluminum pistons. They don't show up on the DRM website so you have to call them.
11-17-2012, 08:30 AM
#12
Burning Brakes
If the op has a 1992 it should aleady have the 13 " rotors ,which are the same as the J55 .
I forgot what year they stopped useing 12 inch rotors and single piston calipers , 87 ?
I forgot what year they stopped useing 12 inch rotors and single piston calipers , 87 ?
11-17-2012, 08:38 AM
#13
Pro
Thread Starter
Thx for the tip on the pistons; but would I still need to do that if I buy new J55 calipers @ Napa?
My 92 does not have RPO J55. I haven't measured them but they look like the 12" rotors (same size my 85 had)
My 92 does not have RPO J55. I haven't measured them but they look like the 12" rotors (same size my 85 had)
11-17-2012, 09:10 AM
#14
Team Owner
As far as the J55 brake calipers, you will also need the rotors and the caliper abutment brackets for the J55 brake option. I would not spend the money on a big brake upgrade just yet. There are a variety of really good aftermarket pads available from companies like Hawk or CarboTech that will work fine for the first year or two. Replace the rotors with stock ones, do a complete flush of the old fluid and you will be OK.
I use ATE SUper Blue (DOT4) in my '87 brake system and have never boiled this fluid. I bleed the brakes prior to each track day and do a complete flush after every 3 track days. ATE is not terribly expensive ($14 per liter). Another good fluid is Motul 600.
The Bilstein shock is every bit as stiff as the FX3 at the Perf setting and at high speeds. I currently have them on my 87. I also have poly bushings in the sway bars and a fairly aggressive autocross alignment. Look at some C4 alignment specs here
11-17-2012, 10:00 AM
#15
Instructor
All the stock calipers have aluminum pistons. Depending on the track and how much you use the brakes, boiling the fluid is possible. The folks at DRM raced the C4 in showroom stock and are well aware of the shortcomings of the J55 brakes and what bandaids are available.
Here is the video that sold me on the pistons.
Here is the video that sold me on the pistons.
Thx for the tip on the pistons; but would I still need to do that if I buy new J55 calipers @ Napa?
My 92 does not have RPO J55. I haven't measured them but they look like the 12" rotors (same size my 85 had)
My 92 does not have RPO J55. I haven't measured them but they look like the 12" rotors (same size my 85 had)
Last edited by Gas Junkie; 11-17-2012 at 10:12 AM.
11-17-2012, 10:03 AM
#16
Melting Slicks
The stock rims are 9.5", so that is where you want to stay..
The reason the Koni's are great is that they work super on the car (countless SS and now BS championships with them since they were developed in 1989). While I'm sure the Bilsteins are good, having the ability to get the front to hook up just that bit better buy adjusting the front shocks between runs is priceless. Set the rears at almost full soft, put them in and leave them alone. Then adjust the fronts to fine tune your balance. If it's pushing a bit back of a quarter of a turn or if it's loose tighten the front a bit. The car will be so tunable that you will very quickly get the hang of it. If at first you are uncomfortable with tuning them, just leave them about half hard at first and as you lean and progress you will find that you can dial the car in by just looking at the course and the surface...
While seat time is important, having that extra bit of grip in the front on these cars is worth it...
The reason the Koni's are great is that they work super on the car (countless SS and now BS championships with them since they were developed in 1989). While I'm sure the Bilsteins are good, having the ability to get the front to hook up just that bit better buy adjusting the front shocks between runs is priceless. Set the rears at almost full soft, put them in and leave them alone. Then adjust the fronts to fine tune your balance. If it's pushing a bit back of a quarter of a turn or if it's loose tighten the front a bit. The car will be so tunable that you will very quickly get the hang of it. If at first you are uncomfortable with tuning them, just leave them about half hard at first and as you lean and progress you will find that you can dial the car in by just looking at the course and the surface...
While seat time is important, having that extra bit of grip in the front on these cars is worth it...
11-17-2012, 11:10 AM
#18
Racer
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Location: Cincinnati Ohio
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Some stuff that might help you out...
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-p...7470501-a.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-p...ons-lines.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-p...7470501-a.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-p...ons-lines.html
11-17-2012, 11:38 AM
#19
Pro
Thread Starter
Won't the GS calipers take me out of stock class (dual piston vs. single on 92 j55)?
Which model konis and qa1s would I need? I see a few different numbers for each in regards to a 92. I just found a full set of fx3 shocks moracca valved fresh from bilstein for $750, but still would need actuators rebuilt- so around 1200 total. Sounds like koni/qa1 is better bang for buck.
Thanks for all the insight!
Which model konis and qa1s would I need? I see a few different numbers for each in regards to a 92. I just found a full set of fx3 shocks moracca valved fresh from bilstein for $750, but still would need actuators rebuilt- so around 1200 total. Sounds like koni/qa1 is better bang for buck.
Thanks for all the insight!
Last edited by c4_4ya; 11-17-2012 at 11:40 AM.
11-17-2012, 11:41 AM
#20
Racer
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I realized that the second link I sent was a bad one. Something else you might consider that would most definitely NOT change your class...
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1582...-post2864.html