383

I got some .090 sheet aluminum for all of 0 dollars and I was going to make some spindle ducts like the Quantum ones.
My question is will .090 be too thin for this?

TLGunman

We generally use .060 at the shop

383

I ended up using the .060 rather than the .090

preliminary measurements


Back side




I don't need to "strap" the caliper side around the inside of the spindle because the .060 fit in between the chamfer of the hub and the spindle.
I just had to keep filing and fitting to get a perfect fit.

Aardwolf

Good job!

brkntrxn

Nice work!

sperkins

Looks good. Are those rivets going to be strong enough to withstand the twisting forces again and again when turning?

1991Z07

I'd "personally" take them someplace and have them welded...brackets and all. It'll survive a lot longer.

You don't want one of those coming apart on track....

Solofast

I agree, or you could go to the Aircraft Spruce catalog and get a couple of adaptors for $9 each that would replace the hand made duct parts with proper aeroduct flanges and you can rivet them most of the way around and it would not only look nicer but would be a heck of a lot stronger.

Here's a link

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...uctflanges.php

Do yourself a favor, spend the $20 for the right flange adaptors. It's cheap insurance.

383

My buddy has a tig welder but that stuff is real thin, Id hope it doesn't blow a hole right through. Maybe Ill have him weld those flanges on instead, they look beefier.
Thanks for the link.
Heres what I did for NACA ducts
destroyed fog lights


Carbon cone


wet out


Rough edge before I added more carbon to even it out for flexible hose attachment

Mike.D

Make sure you shim your calipers. If not, you will have rubbing of the caliper pins on your rotor. Also, I mounted my 315/18 Hoosier slicks and they rubbed the hose.

383

The ducts don't actually mount behind the hub they just fit right into the chamfer between the two.
I never unbolted the hub to install them, just wedged them in.

yooper

Will the flex hose pull or push on the fabbed up .060?

Kubs

So they are not actually bolted to anything??? Those will come out of place for sure on track.

Other than that they look nice! A couple of those flanges would be good to add for the hose.

BrianCunningham

You need to secure it.

You don't want you hose wrapped around your tire, brake, steering...

383

HA they are bolted on the front of the spindle through the two holes already there. Guess I should've specified that
Im not that dumb, close though

383

c5?

383

Thanks for that link again Solofast they are much more rigid now.

Solofast

That looks a lot stronger....

Also, as you rivet stuff like that together, it's good practice to use stainless rivets, and put the proper stainless rivet washers on the back side of the rivets, makes them much less likely to pull out of the thin aluminum.. Or you could put the flanges on the outside and have the heavier aluminum on the back, again, less likely to pull the rivets out when the tires are turning and bouncing around.

davidfarmer

that looks great, if you could make a "template" to share (pdf etc) that would be great. A few key measurements for calibration (pdf's don't always print at the right size)

hard to tell in the photo, but does it extend downward far enough to protect the lower ball joint boot also? Nice-mult-solution design!

383

Yes they cover the ball joint but there is a section that still covers the "fire path" should I trim it off? With the X on it.

Ill see what I can do about a template but they're still not perfect.