Trailer advice needed
02-04-2013, 01:24 PM
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Trailer advice needed
I'm thinking about getting a trailer to haul the Vette for track weekends as well as when I move and wanted some advice. I'll be hauling it with my Cayenne (V6, 7200# tow rating) so I'm looking for a basic open car hauler, about 18 feet nothing too fancy. I just wanted to see what others recommend as must have items vs. waste of money options.
An aluminum one would probably be best, but I'm not sure I really want to spend that kind of money so I'm looking more at the steel and wood deck trailers. I've never had a trailer before so any advice you can provide is appreciated, thanks.
An aluminum one would probably be best, but I'm not sure I really want to spend that kind of money so I'm looking more at the steel and wood deck trailers. I've never had a trailer before so any advice you can provide is appreciated, thanks.
02-04-2013, 01:45 PM
#2
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jun 2002
Location: Charleston South Carolina
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http://www.kwikload.com/
Kwikload has worked for me. If you want to reduce weight they use to have an aluminium deck and fender option. No ramps to worry about. About 1900lbs without the aluminium options.
Kwikload has worked for me. If you want to reduce weight they use to have an aluminium deck and fender option. No ramps to worry about. About 1900lbs without the aluminium options.
02-04-2013, 01:57 PM
#3
Safety Car
I found a local guy who builds trlrs. Spec'd one out with exactly what I needed - slight dovetail, extended ramps, removable d/s fender, dual brakes, complete steel flooring all for $2200. Used ones were not much cheaper, if you could find them. I use mine about 10 times a year so al was not that big of a deal for me. Good luck with choice.
02-04-2013, 07:07 PM
#4
Burning Brakes
I found a local guy who builds trlrs. Spec'd one out with exactly what I needed - slight dovetail, extended ramps, removable d/s fender, dual brakes, complete steel flooring all for $2200. Used ones were not much cheaper, if you could find them. I use mine about 10 times a year so al was not that big of a deal for me. Good luck with choice.
I have a customer that pulls his 911 in an alum. enclosed Vnose with a Cayanne
02-04-2013, 07:14 PM
#5
Team Owner
brakes on both axles for sure Dexter if possible because you can get parts for them easy. Tires should say ST for trailer and get bigger option if possible. Check that you car loads on what you buy easy also before you buy it.
Last edited by John Shiels; 02-04-2013 at 07:17 PM.
02-04-2013, 08:50 PM
#8
Pro
the kwik-load is the easiest to work with, and works great with lowered cars. I tore up the front of my car with a a featherlite alum trailer. it is nice that they dont rust, but the road salt will ruin them too
02-05-2013, 12:15 AM
#9
Drifting
02-05-2013, 09:48 AM
#10
Team Owner
I would suggest looking for an aluminum trailer over a steel-framed trailer. The reason being that you mentioned that your Porsche has only a 7200 lb. towing capacity. I have read on a number of forums where people say you should limit the towed weight to be 80-85% of the maximum trailer weight as shown in the owner's manual
So add up the weight of the car (including a full tank of gas, anything else that will be loaded on the trailer and the weight of the trailer. Given the percentage figure, that would be a maximum of 5800 lbs gross trailer weight.
You also have to factor in all cargo weight that will go into the Cayenne plus the trailer tongue weight (10-15% of the loaded trailer weight). That weight plus the towed weight can't exceed the "gross combination weight rating" or similar description in your owner's manual.
The Cayenne will need a suitable Class III hitch and you will need to use a weight distribution hitch to help spread the tongue weight out over the chassis. You will need a trailer brake controller and a wiring harness for a 7-pin connector. You should check with Porsche to see if the Cayenne can be outfitted with the necessary wiring and brake controller.
So add up the weight of the car (including a full tank of gas, anything else that will be loaded on the trailer and the weight of the trailer. Given the percentage figure, that would be a maximum of 5800 lbs gross trailer weight.
You also have to factor in all cargo weight that will go into the Cayenne plus the trailer tongue weight (10-15% of the loaded trailer weight). That weight plus the towed weight can't exceed the "gross combination weight rating" or similar description in your owner's manual.
The Cayenne will need a suitable Class III hitch and you will need to use a weight distribution hitch to help spread the tongue weight out over the chassis. You will need a trailer brake controller and a wiring harness for a 7-pin connector. You should check with Porsche to see if the Cayenne can be outfitted with the necessary wiring and brake controller.
02-08-2013, 05:31 PM
#11
Burning Brakes
Aluminum is preferable over steel due to reduced weight and ease of hauling - particularly if you are planning on pulling it with that V6. I would be concerned about the capacity of the transmission that is coupled with the V6. You may not be exceeding the tow weight rating of the vehicle but as pointed out with a full load plus the rig - you will likely significantly reduce the life of the transmission.
02-08-2013, 06:15 PM
#12
Safety Car
Member Since: Nov 2000
Location: Shenandoah Valley Virginia
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Features you need on trailer - either steel or aluminum.
1) Slight dovetail for easier loading.
2) Ramps that hide under bed of trailer
3) Removable left fender - Vettes are low makes it easy to get in car.
4) At least 4 D ring tiedowns - 2 ft and 2 rear
5) Dual axles WITH electric brakes on both.
6) Screw jack on front tongue to ease loading
7) Spare tire and wheel
8) "E" rated tires for carrying capacity, safety and long life
Nice to have but not absolutely necessary
1) Tire rack for street tires and spare
2) Tool box
3) Carrier for extra fuel bottles
Based on the towing capacity of your tow vehicle, you really need to look at an aluminum trailer. By the time you attach the trailer, car and load the tow vehicle with all your miscellaneous junk, you are going to be very near it's max load capacity Add all the weight up, be safe and not sorry !!
1) Slight dovetail for easier loading.
2) Ramps that hide under bed of trailer
3) Removable left fender - Vettes are low makes it easy to get in car.
4) At least 4 D ring tiedowns - 2 ft and 2 rear
5) Dual axles WITH electric brakes on both.
6) Screw jack on front tongue to ease loading
7) Spare tire and wheel
8) "E" rated tires for carrying capacity, safety and long life
Nice to have but not absolutely necessary
1) Tire rack for street tires and spare
2) Tool box
3) Carrier for extra fuel bottles
Based on the towing capacity of your tow vehicle, you really need to look at an aluminum trailer. By the time you attach the trailer, car and load the tow vehicle with all your miscellaneous junk, you are going to be very near it's max load capacity Add all the weight up, be safe and not sorry !!
Last edited by CHJ In Virginia; 02-08-2013 at 06:22 PM.
02-08-2013, 07:43 PM
#13
Melting Slicks
An Aluminum open trailer is not that much lighter than it's steel counter part! In order to get the same strength as a steel trailer they have to use heavier aluminum framing. In most cases the aluminum open trailer is only 200 to 300 LBS lighter than a open steel trailer of the same size and the cost can be 2 to 3 times as much. This is not true in the case of a enclosed trailer where the weight savings can be substantial. And I am not saying that the are not very nice trailers, they are! But if you are buying them for the weight savings? They are not always the best value for the money. Just my .02 JD
02-08-2013, 11:32 PM
#14
Drifting
Aluminum is the only trailer you will ever need to buy.
1. Lighter.
2. Will never rust like steel. Steel will need re-painting.
3. If you ever sell, aluminum will hold 80% or more of its value.
Aluminum is more expensive, but it is worth the cost.
I have owned both open and enclosed, aluminum and steel. I will never buy anything but aluminum.
1. Lighter.
2. Will never rust like steel. Steel will need re-painting.
3. If you ever sell, aluminum will hold 80% or more of its value.
Aluminum is more expensive, but it is worth the cost.
I have owned both open and enclosed, aluminum and steel. I will never buy anything but aluminum.
02-09-2013, 08:39 AM
#15
Advanced
02-09-2013, 10:18 PM
#16
Aluminum is preferable over steel due to reduced weight and ease of hauling - particularly if you are planning on pulling it with that V6. I would be concerned about the capacity of the transmission that is coupled with the V6. You may not be exceeding the tow weight rating of the vehicle but as pointed out with a full load plus the rig - you will likely significantly reduce the life of the transmission.
Features you need on trailer - either steel or aluminum.
1) Slight dovetail for easier loading.
2) Ramps that hide under bed of trailer
3) Removable left fender - Vettes are low makes it easy to get in car.
4) At least 4 D ring tiedowns - 2 ft and 2 rear
5) Dual axles WITH electric brakes on both.
6) Screw jack on front tongue to ease loading
7) Spare tire and wheel
8) "E" rated tires for carrying capacity, safety and long life
Nice to have but not absolutely necessary
1) Tire rack for street tires and spare
2) Tool box
3) Carrier for extra fuel bottles
Based on the towing capacity of your tow vehicle, you really need to look at an aluminum trailer. By the time you attach the trailer, car and load the tow vehicle with all your miscellaneous junk, you are going to be very near it's max load capacity Add all the weight up, be safe and not sorry !!
1) Slight dovetail for easier loading.
2) Ramps that hide under bed of trailer
3) Removable left fender - Vettes are low makes it easy to get in car.
4) At least 4 D ring tiedowns - 2 ft and 2 rear
5) Dual axles WITH electric brakes on both.
6) Screw jack on front tongue to ease loading
7) Spare tire and wheel
8) "E" rated tires for carrying capacity, safety and long life
Nice to have but not absolutely necessary
1) Tire rack for street tires and spare
2) Tool box
3) Carrier for extra fuel bottles
Based on the towing capacity of your tow vehicle, you really need to look at an aluminum trailer. By the time you attach the trailer, car and load the tow vehicle with all your miscellaneous junk, you are going to be very near it's max load capacity Add all the weight up, be safe and not sorry !!
An Aluminum open trailer is not that much lighter than it's steel counter part! In order to get the same strength as a steel trailer they have to use heavier aluminum framing. In most cases the aluminum open trailer is only 200 to 300 LBS lighter than a open steel trailer of the same size and the cost can be 2 to 3 times as much. This is not true in the case of a enclosed trailer where the weight savings can be substantial. And I am not saying that the are not very nice trailers, they are! But if you are buying them for the weight savings? They are not always the best value for the money. Just my .02 JD
the cost of an open steel vs. aluminum trailer is hugeAluminum is the only trailer you will ever need to buy.
1. Lighter.
2. Will never rust like steel. Steel will need re-painting.
3. If you ever sell, aluminum will hold 80% or more of its value.
Aluminum is more expensive, but it is worth the cost.
I have owned both open and enclosed, aluminum and steel. I will never buy anything but aluminum.
1. Lighter.
2. Will never rust like steel. Steel will need re-painting.
3. If you ever sell, aluminum will hold 80% or more of its value.
Aluminum is more expensive, but it is worth the cost.
I have owned both open and enclosed, aluminum and steel. I will never buy anything but aluminum.
if double to3/4 increase in price is OK.I tow a 22' V nose enclose trailer but before I got that I had an open steel trailer...I just don't see the advantage of aluminum over steel when cost is considered...if cost is not a factor then get the aluminum.
02-10-2013, 01:05 AM
#17
Burning Brakes
Open Trailer
You dont really need removeable fenders since all you do is pull three pins, lock the trailer brakes by the hand lever and back up lowering the trailer in the ramp position.
This allows access to the car.
This is just like the tow truck flatbeds in the down position.
Two companys Sloan Kwick load & Texas Rollback.
Last edited by steponc; 02-10-2013 at 01:08 AM. Reason: typo
02-11-2013, 01:36 PM
#18
c4cruiser was more correct than I thought...and it looks like I was wrong.
"# are always conservative...manufacturer's are not going to over state capacity as they would have tons of warranty issues"
I just read in Automotive News that there was a standard SAE test (J2807) agreed to by the automakers in 2009 to take affect for MY 2013 but it looks like only Toyota is sticking to their words.
Actual capacities may be lower than they claim...at least until they start comparing apples to apples.
"# are always conservative...manufacturer's are not going to over state capacity as they would have tons of warranty issues"
I just read in Automotive News that there was a standard SAE test (J2807) agreed to by the automakers in 2009 to take affect for MY 2013 but it looks like only Toyota is sticking to their words.
Actual capacities may be lower than they claim...at least until they start comparing apples to apples.
02-11-2013, 05:12 PM
#20
Safety Car
I don't have a picture of mine...but there are a few extra items for your list...
1) Mine has an open center section...it's more like a drive-on lift. There are just a few "I" beams connecting the 2 sides together. This lightens the trailer up tremendously.
It also gives you a good place to work on the car when at the track if you need to get under it. I've let people use it to change starters, power steering pumps, steering racks, etc. and check for damage under their cars.
2) Install a pair of stabilizer jacks on the back! This way it keeps the trailer from attempting to pop off the hitch when driving on...and you can load/unload the car on the trailer without having it hooked up to the tow vehicle.
Stabilizer jacks are cheap...and these work very well...you won't regret it.
1) Mine has an open center section...it's more like a drive-on lift. There are just a few "I" beams connecting the 2 sides together. This lightens the trailer up tremendously.
It also gives you a good place to work on the car when at the track if you need to get under it. I've let people use it to change starters, power steering pumps, steering racks, etc. and check for damage under their cars.
2) Install a pair of stabilizer jacks on the back! This way it keeps the trailer from attempting to pop off the hitch when driving on...and you can load/unload the car on the trailer without having it hooked up to the tow vehicle.
Stabilizer jacks are cheap...and these work very well...you won't regret it.
Last edited by 1991Z07; 02-11-2013 at 05:54 PM.