Aviaid dry sump tank in the rear
#1
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Aviaid dry sump tank in the rear
I have been looking at the Aviaid LSA setup and was wondering if it was possible to run the tank in the passenger side trunk cubby rather than moving the battery (which weighs much less than a giant tank of oil) back there. Would this require multiple pumps inline to keep the pressure up? Also when going to that setup, can you still use a factory Z06 oil cooler system, or does something else have to be put together?
Thanks!
Thanks!
#2
Safety Car
The pump will pull (assuming sensible routing) but it is very tough (not feasible) to run the lines without significant modifications (assuming you have a decently sized tank).
#3
Drifting
Member Since: Dec 2005
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Should work but you need to make sure that gravity is "helping" flow and I would recommend larger lines to insure no loss of volume or restriction or increase in suction pressure.
If it's a race car no problem with running lines, if it's a street car...Good Luck.
If it's a race car no problem with running lines, if it's a street car...Good Luck.
#6
Safety Car
You will want to avoid running lines through the trans tunnel (aka "oil heater") and you will also have very limited room to run lines in and out of that area. Unless you have a small and short tank (which is theoretically not ideal for road racing), that leaves running them through the frame rail, which is pretty tough. Different ball of wax on a car with side exhaust and a driveshaft, though you only have a feed line which makes things easier.
A larger line will decrease the level of vacuum.
A larger line will decrease the level of vacuum.
#7
Melting Slicks
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I would also worry about the RR cubby in the event of a crash. You may want to think about the center cubby, it gives you more room to work with and it's protected by both frame rails. That bumper "wing" doesn't take impacts well and will bend pretty easy with any kind of wall contact.
Also I would think about just putting a full size battery in the RR well, a full size battery weights over 40 lbs. 10 qts of oil only weights about 25 lbs (the rest will be in hoses, the cooler and the engine) plus the tank (< 10 lbs) the extra hoses you are going to run are going to be expensive (more expensive than battery cables). I think the extra hose and the oil in those hoses will be heavier than just putting the tank in the RF and putting a battery in the RR. You defiantly have more challenges running it back there. Just my thought.
Also I would think about just putting a full size battery in the RR well, a full size battery weights over 40 lbs. 10 qts of oil only weights about 25 lbs (the rest will be in hoses, the cooler and the engine) plus the tank (< 10 lbs) the extra hoses you are going to run are going to be expensive (more expensive than battery cables). I think the extra hose and the oil in those hoses will be heavier than just putting the tank in the RF and putting a battery in the RR. You defiantly have more challenges running it back there. Just my thought.
#8
Safety Car
Thread Starter
I would also worry about the RR cubby in the event of a crash. You may want to think about the center cubby, it gives you more room to work with and it's protected by both frame rails. That bumper "wing" doesn't take impacts well and will bend pretty easy with any kind of wall contact.
Also I would think about just putting a full size battery in the RR well, a full size battery weights over 40 lbs. 10 qts of oil only weights about 25 lbs (the rest will be in hoses, the cooler and the engine) plus the tank (< 10 lbs) the extra hoses you are going to run are going to be expensive (more expensive than battery cables). I think the extra hose and the oil in those hoses will be heavier than just putting the tank in the RF and putting a battery in the RR. You defiantly have more challenges running it back there. Just my thought.
Also I would think about just putting a full size battery in the RR well, a full size battery weights over 40 lbs. 10 qts of oil only weights about 25 lbs (the rest will be in hoses, the cooler and the engine) plus the tank (< 10 lbs) the extra hoses you are going to run are going to be expensive (more expensive than battery cables). I think the extra hose and the oil in those hoses will be heavier than just putting the tank in the RF and putting a battery in the RR. You defiantly have more challenges running it back there. Just my thought.
Ive still got the wheels tires and brakes to deal with so this is a year off, but seeing how the setup was only 1800 vs the 3grand that you usually hear drysumps go for, I had to find out about this system!
#10
FWIW, I recently made a custom mount to install my battery in the RR compartment. It's the one in my avatar. What you cannot see in the photos below is I machined some spuds and welded them on to the other side of the box to mount a 100amp fuse for the cable.
I would agree that if the battery is only 5lbs it's not worth moving it that far back and adding back some weight with the proper heavy guage cable.
If you are using the factory pump I would not recommend putting the tank that far back. It's a long ways away for such a pump to draw oil from. With oil lines, bigger is better as long as it fits. Especially on the scavenge lines and most importantly on the return to the tank. Use straght fittings whenver possible and keep angled fittings to a minimum.
I would agree that if the battery is only 5lbs it's not worth moving it that far back and adding back some weight with the proper heavy guage cable.
If you are using the factory pump I would not recommend putting the tank that far back. It's a long ways away for such a pump to draw oil from. With oil lines, bigger is better as long as it fits. Especially on the scavenge lines and most importantly on the return to the tank. Use straght fittings whenver possible and keep angled fittings to a minimum.