DRM Trans and Diff Cooler Install
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
DRM Trans and Diff Cooler Install
I found a couple good threads on the install process (pasted below). However, my electrical skills are minimal. I'm not sure how best to tap the battery power, ground the pumps, and insert a switch. Any hardware recommendations would be greatly appreciated. I'm planning to use 12 gauge wire.
Thanks,
Chris
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/auto...questions.html
Thanks,
Chris
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/auto...questions.html
#2
Find out how many amps each pump draws. If each is well under 15 get a common 30amp relay with dual 87 outputs. Using a base with it is nice so you can install the wires in the base and replace the relay by just plugging it in. 12 guage wire for the 30 and 87 is fine, but 14 is plenty. For 85 and 86 18 guage is more than enough. The 30 pole goes to battery hot. You can either go directly to the battery positive terminal or to the lug on the engine compartment fuse panel where the battery wire attaches to. A fuse on that wire is not necessary, but a good idea. The 87 goes to the accessory. In your case each 87 will have a separate wire to each pump. 85 goes to ground tapping into the frame is fine, but there are ground studs already in place that you can use. 86 goes to a switch. Install a switch tapping into a hot source in your car.
Pump ground can go to an existing ground stud or tap into frame.
This is the basics of installing a 12v relay. There are variations of this, but they all boil down to what is described above.
Pump ground can go to an existing ground stud or tap into frame.
This is the basics of installing a 12v relay. There are variations of this, but they all boil down to what is described above.
#3
Safety Car
Here you go - http://www.the12volt.com/relays/relays.asp
Those pumps should pull around 8 amps each. Even 16ga should be fine and a mfg might run 18ga (check out the fuel pump wiring).
Depending on the switch you use (many are rated to 20 amps), you won't need a relay.
Those pumps should pull around 8 amps each. Even 16ga should be fine and a mfg might run 18ga (check out the fuel pump wiring).
Depending on the switch you use (many are rated to 20 amps), you won't need a relay.
#4
Safety Car
I need to put the wheel well liner back in tomorrow and I'm finished with my DRM tranny cooler install.
By the time you get the cooler and the pump mounted you will have created several places to ground to. I used rivetnuts to mount the cooler and pump and double grounded the pump to two of the cooler mount locations. I did use a relay and a lighted switch in the car. You can get the ground and the power for the switch from the unused accessory wires in the passenger foot well. (Orange hot all the time, Yellow is switched with the ignition, and the Black is the ground). I used the rocker panel to get a #10 wire from the pump to the front of the car.
Also, since I didn't want to be undoing the AN fitting on the tranny drain all the time, I installed a 1" stainless nipple and a stainless T off the tranny drain hole. Now I just undo the plug in the T to drain the tranny. In my book if you get the AN fitting on and they aren't leaking - don't touch them again.
I can send you some pictures if you want to PM me an e-mail address.
Good luck with the installs.
By the time you get the cooler and the pump mounted you will have created several places to ground to. I used rivetnuts to mount the cooler and pump and double grounded the pump to two of the cooler mount locations. I did use a relay and a lighted switch in the car. You can get the ground and the power for the switch from the unused accessory wires in the passenger foot well. (Orange hot all the time, Yellow is switched with the ignition, and the Black is the ground). I used the rocker panel to get a #10 wire from the pump to the front of the car.
Also, since I didn't want to be undoing the AN fitting on the tranny drain all the time, I installed a 1" stainless nipple and a stainless T off the tranny drain hole. Now I just undo the plug in the T to drain the tranny. In my book if you get the AN fitting on and they aren't leaking - don't touch them again.
I can send you some pictures if you want to PM me an e-mail address.
Good luck with the installs.
#5
Pro
Thread Starter
Thanks guys. I mounted the tranny cooler today and will go for the diff tomorrow. I have all of the wiring parts and put together a temporary rig to make sure it all works (it does!). However, I can't figure out how to route the wire from the battery to the coolers for my long-term solution. Does anyone have pictures of how they routed and secured the wires?
Thanks,
Chris
Thanks,
Chris
#6
Safety Car
Member Since: Nov 2000
Location: Shenandoah Valley Virginia
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No pics but this is how I ran my wires. From battery through firewall via one of the rubber grommets. It is a PITA to find the wire inside the dash. Through and behind the dash to the toggle switch mounted in console. From there under console to back end and then under carpet. Branch off to each side and run under carpet over the hump and down the other side. Drill hole in fibergalss tub and run wire through to pump location sealing hole with silicone caulk. Not elegant but it works and is hidden.