Dirk Miller

When my C6 and three quart Accusump are cold I can successfully dump oil from the sump with a flip of my toggle. But once warm, my Accusump does not discharge consistently as it should. When the car has sat in the heat of the sun it takes anywhere from 1 to 10 seconds to discharge the oil before I start my car. I put this in mainly to protect the engine on hard g corners at the track and I believe it has not been functioning properly.
I positioned the Accusump behind my seat in the rear compartment and this location gives me a chance to see the pressure gauge. Glad I put it here since I can keep my eye on how well it works. But being in this position, the sun can shine on the canister through the back window. Up to now, I’ve replaced the solenoid twice, the pressure switch twice and the pressure gauge. When I put an insulated blanket over the canister and it seems to help but not constantly. When I originally put this in, I made sure I did not over tighten the rings that hold the canister and also made sure I positioned them over the orange tape. In addition, I also checked the O.D. of the canister with a straight edge and it looks good. Doesn’t this sound like the o-ring inside the canister isn’t sliding properly?
Other than suggesting I go to a dry sump, are there any ideas out there?

TJM

If it is after the motor running, it is probably resistance in the clearances?

Not sure how it flows in LS?

Crank surely gets flow first before it climbs to a gauge [sender]?

Dirk Miller

What I see happening or not happening is before the engine is running.

GS023

I am going to install one on my 96 and am undecided on what type of valve to buy. I don't think I want the one with the pressure switch since I have heard of issues with them. I will likely go with the cable or toggle switch operated electric.
Could the additional heat be causing the pressure to increase to where it is out of range of the pressure switch or putting enough pressure on the valve to where it won't operate?
I'm thinking the cable operated ball valve may be the most reliable. I plan to mount mine under the back of the car behind the diff and run a remote air pressure gauge in the car.
Have you called Canton?

SouthernSon

There are a few threads about the problem. Flip the switch - engine on or engine off or pressure in can or pressure not in can, so on and so on. I had an electrical solenoid valve leak. I replaced it and the above crazy things started happening. I finally installed a manual cable switch from accusump (which they recommend for a track car) and now the problems are all resolved. For those of you wanting to install the electrical switch, you may have no problems for the first couple of years but you will eventually. The manual is positive, cable can be installed along the inside of the door sill out of the way and I believe it exchanges the oil quicker from canister to engine and vice versus.

TJM

Mounted ours in the door, behind the panel. Lever is right there. No cables.

Now windows are a challenge [ track only car ].