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Is this valley cover overkill for excess crankcase pressure?

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Old 05-09-2013, 09:52 AM
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waddisme
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Default Is this valley cover overkill for excess crankcase pressure?

Valley cover with 1" port: http://www.aeicnc.com/gen-iv-chevrol...ley-cover.html

After 4 1/2 yrs of fighting motor puking oil at the track, I am trying to come up with the once and for all fix. Motor is LS2 with LS6 valve covers. Currently, I have just a breather on the p/s valve cover port, stock oil cap, and valley cover port run through pcv to catch can to breather. TB and intake port are capped. I did run one session Friday with catch can connected to intake port in case maybe that would make a difference, but it doesn't.

I am replacing my LS6 valve covers with LS1s so I can use the 3 ports for venting and oil cap breather for inlet. If it is not too hard, I may try to expand the outlets to something bigger than 3/8".

The valley cover with the 1" port seems like a good option seeing that is where GMs engineers decided it was best to vent the crankcase to start with.

Thoughts?
Old 05-09-2013, 12:28 PM
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Last C5
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I've got thoughts, just no answers. I have the same problem and I'm running a large catch can with a breather on the PS valve cover as well as a valley catch can set up like yours. If I over fill the engine it will puke about 16 oz into the valve cover catch can in a 20 minute session. If I don't watch it carefully pretty soon it's puking oil out the breather of that catch can and all over the car. The C6Z run their valve cover ports back to the sump. Is there any place for us to do the same or do we have to tap into the pan and add a port there (and would that even work)?
Old 05-09-2013, 01:16 PM
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waddisme
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I have this saved from a previous thread about how to plumb into oil dipstick tube:

Originally Posted by 96CollectorSport
Since the dipstick tube is pretty thin I took some round tube stock I had laying around that was just a little bigger ID than the dipstick tube OD. I cut it in half drilled a hole in it and tapped it for a 90 degree pipe fitting something like this.

Once I screwed the pipe fitting into the tube stock I used a die grinder to make it smooth so I could mount it against the side of the dipstick tube. I found the spot on the dipstick tube where I wanted to mount it and drilled a hole in the dipstick tube, tacked the tube stock/fitting in place (a little more than a tack but not a bead all the way around) and then used JB weld to seal around it. After that I used 5/16 brake line and bent up lines to go to the two catch cans.
Old 05-09-2013, 02:08 PM
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Mmmm. Well, it sounds like it will work then.
Old 05-09-2013, 03:25 PM
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I know there is a small amount of us chasing the oiling issue... I started out the season last week doing the same thing. I finally said enough. Dry sump is going in next week. I know its not the most affordable option out there, but All I want is worry free driving.

I did have a catch can that had drain back via the dipstick and I'm sure it may have helped for draining but I still was dealing with oil in the intake or building up pressure and blowing out the rear main.

Did a leakdown test as well to make sure the rings looked good. Motor is strong as an ox but the oiling has just never been right. I feel your pain.

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