Road Race LS Motor
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Road Race LS Motor
Need to build a LS version Road Race Motor;
Considerations include:
Pump gas a must
Hydraulic lifters
Dry Sump
LS1, LS3, LS3 or LS7; (Cost is a factor)
Best bore x stroke config with regards to block used
Carb of Fuel Injected
Any all inputs appreciated... Thanks!
Considering Texas Speed for build??
Considerations include:
Pump gas a must
Hydraulic lifters
Dry Sump
LS1, LS3, LS3 or LS7; (Cost is a factor)
Best bore x stroke config with regards to block used
Carb of Fuel Injected
Any all inputs appreciated... Thanks!
Considering Texas Speed for build??
#3
i just had one built by T.E.C. out of Riviera, Florida .. we build a LS2 with Dailey Dry sump, oliver rod, J&e pistons, cali crank, plus all the other top end goodies.. this motor was built for longevity 120 race hrs... and it made 550 hp with 525 lbs tq all on pup gas... Mike is a LS specialist and has Made a great reputation in the road race world ,, he builds all the Mosler race car motors
his facility are impeccable and has a great reputation in the eastern USA.
561-842-2813 Good luck..Manny
his facility are impeccable and has a great reputation in the eastern USA.
561-842-2813 Good luck..Manny
#4
Drifting
First of all...What rules are you running under?
The above LS engine builders have good reputations. Another way to go for affordablity would be to buy a GMPP CT 525 carb motor and then have a race engine shop install a 3 or 4 stage dry sump system. these motors make 525 HP and 470 torque and would likely make a bit more dry sumped. There is also an factory efi version 525. They use the ASA 525 lift cam, which is easy on the valve train yet makes for a good torquey motor for road race that need not be twisted much over 6500. You would likely have about 11000 in a dry sumped version of these motors. 7000 plus dry sump and labor.
This would be a cheap motor program as you could run it a couple years, sell used and buy anothe long block to replace. Some have used these in the Trans Am 2 cars. (Injected)
You can get an all forged dry sump road race LS3 from 15-16 K up. (way up)
I am converting an ex ASA motor to carb and full dry sump (3 stage) and freshening for a little over 5K plus the cost of the used ASA motor. (which was not much) This will be about 480 HP and 430 torque. I did install used 243 heads anda warmed over version of the ASA cam
The above LS engine builders have good reputations. Another way to go for affordablity would be to buy a GMPP CT 525 carb motor and then have a race engine shop install a 3 or 4 stage dry sump system. these motors make 525 HP and 470 torque and would likely make a bit more dry sumped. There is also an factory efi version 525. They use the ASA 525 lift cam, which is easy on the valve train yet makes for a good torquey motor for road race that need not be twisted much over 6500. You would likely have about 11000 in a dry sumped version of these motors. 7000 plus dry sump and labor.
This would be a cheap motor program as you could run it a couple years, sell used and buy anothe long block to replace. Some have used these in the Trans Am 2 cars. (Injected)
You can get an all forged dry sump road race LS3 from 15-16 K up. (way up)
I am converting an ex ASA motor to carb and full dry sump (3 stage) and freshening for a little over 5K plus the cost of the used ASA motor. (which was not much) This will be about 480 HP and 430 torque. I did install used 243 heads anda warmed over version of the ASA cam
Last edited by bosco022; 07-22-2013 at 09:12 AM.
#9
Drifting
Heres that motor, the part#19271821 for the CT525 - link below:
http://store.chevroletperformance.co...-19271821--%3E
http://store.chevroletperformance.co...-19271821--%3E
Jegs had them for sale at 7000
#12
Drifting
I am recommending a three stage dry sump system on these for road racing. No way it lasts without.
#13
LS2 blocks are actually better than LS3 blocks. The LS2 and LS3 have the same oiling issues when they are stock wet sumps, it is the same oil pan. The LS2 is the best aluminum production block there is at the moment. The bores are more stable than the LS3's are. They don't have the block strength issues the LS3 has due to increased bay to bay breathing window size. The cylinder liners are harder in the LS2's.
#14
Safety Car
LS2 blocks are actually better than LS3 blocks. The LS2 and LS3 have the same oiling issues when they are stock wet sumps, it is the same oil pan. The LS2 is the best aluminum production block there is at the moment. The bores are more stable than the LS3's are. They don't have the block strength issues the LS3 has due to increased bay to bay breathing window size. The cylinder liners are harder in the LS2's.
#16
Team Owner
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Location: Raleigh / Rolesville NC
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Yes.
and the stock LS3 heads hold so much oil that under hard hard braking, the oil does not drain back into the pan quick enough, and oil starvation happens then too.
have seen a few LS3s with extra oil drain lines in to help this issue.
and the stock LS3 heads hold so much oil that under hard hard braking, the oil does not drain back into the pan quick enough, and oil starvation happens then too.
have seen a few LS3s with extra oil drain lines in to help this issue.
#17
Safety Car
Well, that is more about the heads than the block, but it does correct that point.
I would be interested to hear where you got your info regarding block strength, bore stability and liner differences.
I would be interested to hear where you got your info regarding block strength, bore stability and liner differences.