Need shortcut to R&R P/S pump
#1
Race Director
Thread Starter
Need shortcut to R&R P/S pump - video added
There is supposed to be a way to do it by cutting up or drilling the stock pully (destroy it) in order to get to the bolts.
I know the alt comes off to give room.
The FSM says to remove the abs block. I'd like to leave that alone if I can help it.
Going back using a skeleton pully from Turn One.
Anyone who has actually done the pully destruction way?
How, what tools?
Thanks.
I know the alt comes off to give room.
The FSM says to remove the abs block. I'd like to leave that alone if I can help it.
Going back using a skeleton pully from Turn One.
Anyone who has actually done the pully destruction way?
How, what tools?
Thanks.
Last edited by froggy47; 09-11-2013 at 12:27 PM.
#2
Racer
There is supposed to be a way to do it by cutting up or drilling the stock pully (destroy it) in order to get to the bolts.
I know the alt comes off to give room.
The FSM says to remove the abs block. I'd like to leave that alone if I can help it.
Going back using a skeleton pully from Turn One.
Anyone who has actually done the pully destruction way?
How, what tools?
Thanks.
I know the alt comes off to give room.
The FSM says to remove the abs block. I'd like to leave that alone if I can help it.
Going back using a skeleton pully from Turn One.
Anyone who has actually done the pully destruction way?
How, what tools?
Thanks.
#4
Track Junky
Yes, C5 pulley is plastic. You don't need to remove the ABS block... Maybe remove mounting bracket bolts at best. There's a way to cut the reservoir bracket to make future R&R easier. A search will give you pics on how to make your life easier.
#8
Race Director
Thread Starter
I can't get a pully puller in the space between the abs & the pully.
The FSM says remove the abs & that seems to be a really complicated & unnecessary step.
Threading all those metal brake line fittings into the alum block & not crossthreading one does not look like fun, plus then I have to bleed it all.
Is there a puller that fits in tight places?
Please explain your post.
The FSM says remove the abs & that seems to be a really complicated & unnecessary step.
Threading all those metal brake line fittings into the alum block & not crossthreading one does not look like fun, plus then I have to bleed it all.
Is there a puller that fits in tight places?
Please explain your post.
#11
Drifting
Member Since: Dec 2005
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You can remove the bracket without removing the pulley but you need to use a 15mm box end or open end wrench to work the bolt(s) behind the pulley out. It is slow and a pain in the butt, but it can be done.
If you are replacing the pulley I would just break it and use the new Turn One pulley.
I would just put a wrench or big pliers on it and snap it that way as opposed to hitting it with a hammer. I imagine that would be less stress to the shaft and bearing.
If you are replacing the pulley I would just break it and use the new Turn One pulley.
I would just put a wrench or big pliers on it and snap it that way as opposed to hitting it with a hammer. I imagine that would be less stress to the shaft and bearing.
#12
Safety Car
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Easy way to get rid of stock plastic pulley is to use a large screwdriver. Wedge it between the pulley and mounting bracket and push. It will snap off fairly easily. Mine broke in half and then I rotated what's left and did it again. Makes getting to mounting bolts very easy. DO NOT move or remove the ABS unit it is not necessary. The turn one pulley has slots and you can tighten mounting bolts with pulley in place.
Be sure to flush out the entire system before starting new pump. DO NOT try to flush out by starting engine, you can not keep fluid in the reservoir fast enough to keep up ! Once you have it all back together, leave the fluid return hose loose and place in a bucket. With car up on jack stands, cycle the steering full left lock to full right lock and repeat 7-8 times or until fluid from hose comes out crystal clear. Reattach hose, fill and you are GTG.
Be sure to flush out the entire system before starting new pump. DO NOT try to flush out by starting engine, you can not keep fluid in the reservoir fast enough to keep up ! Once you have it all back together, leave the fluid return hose loose and place in a bucket. With car up on jack stands, cycle the steering full left lock to full right lock and repeat 7-8 times or until fluid from hose comes out crystal clear. Reattach hose, fill and you are GTG.
Last edited by CHJ In Virginia; 08-06-2013 at 05:22 PM.
#13
Race Director
Thread Starter
Easy way to get rid of stock plastic pulley is to use a large screwdriver. Wedge it between the pulley and mounting bracket and push. It will snap off fairly easily. Mine broke in half and then I rotated what's left and did it again. Makes getting to mounting bolts very easy. DO NOT move or remove the ABS unit it is not necessary. The turn one pulley has slots and you can tighten mounting bolts with pulley in place.
Be sure to flush out the entire system before starting new pump. DO NOT try to flush out by starting engine, you can not keep fluid in the reservoir fast enough to keep up ! Once you have it all back together, leave the fluid return hose loose and place in a bucket. With car up on jack stands, cycle the steering full left lock to full right lock and repeat 7-8 times or until fluid from hose comes out crystal clear. Reattach hose, fill and you are GTG.
Be sure to flush out the entire system before starting new pump. DO NOT try to flush out by starting engine, you can not keep fluid in the reservoir fast enough to keep up ! Once you have it all back together, leave the fluid return hose loose and place in a bucket. With car up on jack stands, cycle the steering full left lock to full right lock and repeat 7-8 times or until fluid from hose comes out crystal clear. Reattach hose, fill and you are GTG.
Fluid is pretty good now, I have been doing the suction refill on the resevoir every event (probably overkill0>
#14
Le Mans Master
Exactly, but if you plan on a T1 pump/pulley, I'd just do as Geerookie suggests..
Last edited by sperkins; 08-06-2013 at 07:37 PM.
#16
Burning Brakes
I drilled a hole in mine, about 5/8" and you can get in there to remove the bolts. It's plastic so there's nothing to it. I would remove the EBCM, it's just 3 pinch bolts and it will be out of your way. It's tight working around it.
#17
Safety Car
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Even if your fluid looks good, do a complete flush anyway. Do you want to risk any nasty particulates that might be somewhere in the system screwing up your new pump. Fluid is cheap.
#18
Race Director
Thread Starter
Absolutely. Cycling the rack via the wheel movement will move fluid through the system. It will take 7-8 complete lock to lock cycles to totally flush everything out. About a quart and 1/4 to 1/2 of fluid will be required. Best to do job with a friend to keep reservoir full, it will empty quickly.
Even if your fluid looks good, do a complete flush anyway. Do you want to risk any nasty particulates that might be somewhere in the system screwing up your new pump. Fluid is cheap.
Even if your fluid looks good, do a complete flush anyway. Do you want to risk any nasty particulates that might be somewhere in the system screwing up your new pump. Fluid is cheap.
#20
Racer
the shortest pulley remover I've found is the one Oreilly's sells/loans for the GM PS pulley, 67010 I believe is the number. It's a lot shorter than most of them