derekdj87

So I took my car (2003 Z06) in to get an alignment and I told him to do these specs;

Front Camber: -1.3
Caster: 8.5
Total Toe: 0

Rear Camber: -.9
Total Toe: 1/8"

Was this good?

Here's what I got though;

Front Camber: -.47
Caster: 7.13
Total Toe: 0

Rear Camber: -.9
Total Toe: 1/8"

He said he couldn't adjust the camber anymore and that if he did the caster would go down to 4 degrees. Tell me what you guys think.

-Derek

froggy47

Well it's not even close to the camber you wanted.

Google the Pfadt alignment chart, for some appropriate settings.

Are the toes in or out???

derekdj87

Yea I used the pfadt alignment chart. I was just wondering why wouldn't he be able to get more camber? Does Camber affect the caster settings? He said it was toe in.

3X2

Were the washers removed from the front upper control arms?

derekdj87

No he adjusted the bolts. Cause he mentioned the lack of shims on my car.

froggy47

The 2004 FSM calls for (z06)

front

-0.7 camber
+6.9 caster
+.08 toe

rear

-0.68 camber
-------- caster
-0.02 toe

all these are +/- .2 to .5

and this is without touching washers, just cam bolts & tie rod

So unless the car has been wrecked, he's way less neg camber than the fsm calls for.

Now some guys will set less neg because their customers complain about tire wear.

But since you gave him settings he should have been able IMO to get you at least -1.0 easily.

Yes camber can limit caster, but most guys, myself included, will give up a bigger caster number to get more neg camber.

3X2

There are no shims on a C5, just the eccentrics on the lower control arms. The General installed washers behind each bolt on the upper control arms. If you can't get enough negative camber, see if they are there and remove them and get it realigned. BTW, I add alittle toe out to the front, about 0.01" per side.

derekdj87

I'm getting it reaaligned next monday. It's a shame though Cause I was really looking forward to the increase in camber for this sunday's autocross. If I take the washers out will the camber increase just from that?

3X2

Depends on your definition of "camber increase". Removing the washers will give more negative camber. I would call going more negative a 'decrease'. However, it will change toe. I "think" it will give more toe out. I remove the shims as a matter of course for an alignment before I actually put the car on the alignment rack. Do you have access to toe plates?

sperkins

You really need a new alignment guy. Or just do it yourself.

ttgangsta

your guy needs a new job

derekdj87

3X2- Yea by increase I meant decrease. I don't have toe plates, I was thinking since front toe is 0 that it changing the camber wouldn't mess with it. Toe out would actually be good for autocross though and wouldn't do too much harm for one day.

Sperkins- I think this will be the last alignment for my corvette I will pay for. This has tainted my trust for mechanics.

My question is if it was you guys would you go ahead and take the washers out before sunday and try and adjust toe with a tape measure?

froggy47

I would leave it alone.

I have a video on diy alignment on my c5z. Click below.

derekdj87

Froggy- I don't see the link? Thanks again you guys.

froggy47

Did you scroll thru the Corvette videos?

Here is a direct link

Soloontario

My car has shims on the upper control arms both front and back. I am happy with the camber I have now ( about - 2.1) but would like to tuck the wheel in more. If I remove the shims and change the alignment at the lower camber (front) adjuster this should do this.

My question is, is there any downside to removing all the shims in the front upper control arms other than needing to realign the car? Noise, wear etc.?

froggy47

If I understand correctly you just want to move the whole rim in & keep the align spec the same?

I think that would work, but you are only talking a few mm change. I'm not sure you would even see the difference.

A rim with a different back space or a tire with less sectional width would give you more of what you want (I think).



You need to see where the adjuster is NOW, with -2.1 I suspect it's maxed out. But if you get more at the top, I think you would need less at the bottom, so maybe that's ok.

derekdj87

When I get my alignment redone monday, should I have the tech focus on camber and worry about caster after that?

That was a good video froggy. I'll have to invest in a string system or come up with one.

froggy47

Yes, get the max neg camber that you want & let the caster fall where it does, maybe have him even it out but +/- a couple of tenths is close enought on caster.

You can do the string alignment with cinder blocks & string or jack stands. Just has to be VERY solid so the strings don't move around. It's a bit of a painstaking job, but done right you end up with a PERFECT alignment. Most race cars do alignment changes with strings as they don't "fit" on standard racks.

derekdj87

Froggy do you do your own camber and caster as well?