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Anything to be done to get more camber in rear??

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Old 08-27-2013, 06:55 PM
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rmackintosh
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Default Anything to be done to get more camber in rear??

Just bought some Pirelli slicks scrubs to try out, and the WC team said that they ran the car at -3 camber front and rear. I have the front set to -3 now, but I think the rear is maxed at -1.5 with camber blocks.

Just looked up there and there is about 1/2" behind the upper A Arms to the frame. Has anyone slotted the upper mounts? Does that work?

Thanks
Old 08-27-2013, 07:48 PM
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Werks
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I have the Pfadt camber kit on my car (C6Z) and with Poly bushings run -3 on the front and -2 camber on the rear which is maxed out. Tire wear with Continental slicks seems to be about even on the rear and I run mostly at T-hil. My friend often runs Michelin slicks on his C6Z and he is at -3 front and -2 rear with Pfadt camber kit + spherical bearings and he is also wearing about even on the rear. He runs mostly at T-hil and Laguna. I would think that -3 might be a little excessive on the rear with slicks on our cars. I've seen your threads so I know that you are quite capable of fabbing stuff your self but I would suggest that you try about -2 first and monitor wear to see if you really need to go through the hassle of figuring out how to re-work everything to get that much negative camber in the rear. We have not found it necessary yet and I think that we are running on the same tracks that you do.
Old 08-27-2013, 10:45 PM
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trackboss
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Longer lower control arms and/or shorter uppers. Will change the camber gain (it's actually loss, but no one referrs to it that way). You can also do custom upper mounts instead, but there is quite a bit of work involved. Either method will require custom fab work.
Old 08-27-2013, 10:50 PM
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rmackintosh
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Yeah, was trying to avoid lots of fab.

Will have to look at my first alignment specs. I used max blocks and one side was -2.x and the other was -1.8 if I remember correctly.

I just picked up some 1-2 heat cycle Pirelli DHs from the World Challenge weekend here, and want to give them a shot....only have been on R100's once for a VERY short period of time...and they didn't grip much while flipping 8 times....LOL...other than that...no slick experience.
Old 08-27-2013, 10:57 PM
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trackboss
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I ran the grand am take offs a few years back. My car a street car so quite a bit less capable than yours however with well under 2* negative in the rear the car had tons of grip. I would think 3* is excessive in the rear on a car like corvette with such a big rear tire, but then again I have no data to say otherwise.
The one thing I can tell you with slicks is give them several laps to warm up. The first time I tried them I damn near wiped out exiting the hot pits and on that same lap I almost couldn't slow down enough going into t-7 at sears (using the chute). They have near zero grip when cold, but once up to temp they work well. Keep that in mind under braking on the first few laps.
Old 08-28-2013, 01:00 AM
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froggy47
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Originally Posted by rmackintosh
Just bought some Pirelli slicks scrubs to try out, and the WC team said that they ran the car at -3 camber front and rear. I have the front set to -3 now, but I think the rear is maxed at -1.5 with camber blocks.

Just looked up there and there is about 1/2" behind the upper A Arms to the frame. Has anyone slotted the upper mounts? Does that work?

Thanks
I don't think you'll have any problem with -1.5 rear. Just flip the tires good rubber outer & make sure you warm them up b4 you get on it.

Old 08-28-2013, 07:55 AM
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Hi Volts Z06
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If the car has spherical bearings, I think you would NEED to back off that -3 number a bit anyway. I'm surprised you only get -1.5 with the Pfadt kit. I'm running 1.7 to 1.8 with it.
Old 08-28-2013, 09:26 AM
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geerookie
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Originally Posted by Hi Volts Z06
If the car has spherical bearings, I think you would NEED to back off that -3 number a bit anyway. I'm surprised you only get -1.5 with the Pfadt kit. I'm running 1.7 to 1.8 with it.

The amount of camber you will get front or rear changes from car to car because of the varying ride heights. The lower the car sits the higher the camber you can get.
My car sits about 3 1/4" at the frame rails and I can get -4 Front and -3.5 rear.
I have been running various tires, A6's, Yokohama, Hoosier slicks with spherical bearings and -2.3 front and -2 rear and have perfectly even wear across all 4 tires. Car weighs about 2825lbs.

I also just got a set of Pirelli scrubs. I will be trying them at The Glen the last week of Sept. Boy are they a Pain in the A$$ to mount!

Last edited by geerookie; 08-28-2013 at 09:28 AM.
Old 08-28-2013, 12:02 PM
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RX-Ben
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You need the special air blower tool. I know how to describe it - it essentially shoots a quick shot of high pressure air on demand - every tire shop I have had Pirellis mounted had it (I told them to use it ahead of time).
Old 08-28-2013, 01:02 PM
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rmackintosh
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Yeah, we have the rear a bit higher due to clearance probs...but with a bit narrower rear tire, that should be gone. Lowering the rear will help some too....
Old 08-28-2013, 02:30 PM
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geerookie
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Originally Posted by RX-Ben
You need the special air blower tool. I know how to describe it - it essentially shoots a quick shot of high pressure air on demand - every tire shop I have had Pirellis mounted had it (I told them to use it ahead of time).
I have that on my tire machine and that part isn't the problem. It's getting the bead seated all the way. We went up to about 80 - 90 psi and still couldn't get it to seat. It hangs up on the barrel of the wheel. A friend sent me some super slick tire mounting lube which is supposed to be the only thing that worked them. I have it, just need time to try it.
Old 08-28-2013, 02:32 PM
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geerookie
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Originally Posted by rmackintosh
Yeah, we have the rear a bit higher due to clearance probs...but with a bit narrower rear tire, that should be gone. Lowering the rear will help some too....
How wide of a tire are you running?
I run 315's for the A6's and 305's for the Hoosiers and Pirelli's with a 70mm offset on the wheel.
Old 08-28-2013, 03:23 PM
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sperkins
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Originally Posted by geerookie
We went up to about 80 - 90 psi and still couldn't get it to seat.
You should seriously consider picking up a tire cage.
Most Goodyear dealers would sell you one cheap since the Runflats are pretty much out of commision these days.
Old 08-28-2013, 05:07 PM
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geerookie
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Originally Posted by sperkins
You should seriously consider picking up a tire cage.
Most Goodyear dealers would sell you one cheap since the Runflats are pretty much out of commision these days.
Hoping this super slick paste makes it so they seat with "normal" pressures. Did the high pressure attempt from across the room and around the corner....not planning on trying it again
Old 08-28-2013, 05:38 PM
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rmackintosh
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Originally Posted by geerookie
How wide of a tire are you running?
I run 315's for the A6's and 305's for the Hoosiers and Pirelli's with a 70mm offset on the wheel.
So far the rear has been either a 335 Hoosier A6, R6 or Goodyear RS. It clears, but rubs just a bit. If we spent some time on it, we could have fixed it.

With the WC sizing of 305 in front and 315 in rear....should be cake. Should be able to tuck the wheel and tire up there low rider style!
Old 08-28-2013, 11:06 PM
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6SPEEDZ
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Pirelli's can take up to 150 psi to seat the bead.
Old 08-29-2013, 12:00 AM
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trackboss
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If I remember correctly the take-off slicks I had were Pirellis and the beads were steel reinforced. I'd bet that is why they are so difficult to mount.

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Old 08-29-2013, 12:33 AM
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rmackintosh
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Originally Posted by 6SPEEDZ
Pirelli's can take up to 150 psi to seat the bead.
That is why I take them to Roger Kraus Racing Tires in my home town and have them use the state of the art machines to mount those suckers up!
Old 08-29-2013, 09:37 AM
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jasonberkeley
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You will have problems getting the power down running that much negative camber at the rear. As the car squats, and the suspension travels, you will have camber gain giving you even more camber, making it harder still to put power down and get traction.
Old 08-29-2013, 10:22 AM
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rmackintosh
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Originally Posted by jasonberkeley
You will have problems getting the power down running that much negative camber at the rear. As the car squats, and the suspension travels, you will have camber gain giving you even more camber, making it harder still to put power down and get traction.
I looked at the current specs....the rear is set to -1.5 now. If I lower it, should be able to get more if needed.

I agree that amount of camber sounds counter productive in the rear...but the WC team was running that at Sears this past weekend.

Will start with what I have and take temps/pressures a lot.




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