topmover

I have a C6z that has ZR1 areo that I HPDE/TT and W2W, the car is stock power with upgraded suspension, brakes, radiator and heat extractor hood. My water gets to upper 230's and oil upper 280's in the heat after 20 hard minutes of driving. With just the upgraded radiator I'm not all that surprised by these number.

I've now put together a full areo C6z however I have a Setab EOC mounted in front of an upgraded radiator and an upgraded ARE oil pan and tank........once again stock power and the exact same suspension and brakes etc. as the previous car. The front splitter is not blocking the grill opening. Problem is, after 2 laps my water is at 230 and oil is 270 and unless I back it down they continue to climb.

Anyone got any idea why this car would get this hot this quick?

geerookie

What weight oil are you using? What's your oil pressure at 4k - 6k RPM?

topmover

5/30 mobil 1 which is the same as I run in the other car.
50psi

geerookie

Maybe the oil cooler is plumbed the wrong way? If water temps are hanging at 230 then you have to at least have some air flow so I can't see a reason the oil with that cooler would hit those temps and keep climbing.

topmover

Both the water and oil temps climb and climb if the car is driven full out..............if I back it down it cools down(both oil and water) like you'd expect.

RX-Ben

post pics of passages to/from radiator & oil cooler.

db2xpert

What's the ambient temps?
You're not getting enough air through the EOC and radiator. Are the sides sealed to the shroud to force all the air though it?
Adding the aero pieces is great for downforce, but you may be losing
flow through that area of the car.

topmover

The car is in Virginia and Im in Florida right now so I cant send photos. The shop who installed the EOC deals with track cars on a daily basis and while anyone can make a mistake I have confidence in their instillation ability, and they're working very hard on trying to get this figured out. I've reached out here for additional ideas.

The car has been to the track twice, the first time we had a larger oil cooler but when we discovered the cooling issue(after burping the cooling system, pulling the thermostat etc) we put a smaller oil cooler on thinking that the previous one might have been too large and causing the water temps to be too high. And yes the shroud has been sealed.

When I took the car to VIR Tuesday we ran my AIM to the OBII and according to the data the car is gaining most of the heat in the straights which might suggest air flow however since C6's are front breathers it seems odd that a splitter that is 3" longer than my ZR1 spliter would disrupt that much air flow. No???

AU N EGL

Clean the radiators out. Open up the front end more.

This is a challenge with just bolting on aero products.

If the splitter is doing is purpose, and forcing air OVER the top of the splitter and not into the front or under the nose to go into the radiator opening, the car runs hotter.

Or if the air can not escape out behind the radiator, down to below the engine or better still and extractor hood, the engine will run hotter.

1st would be to clean the radiators out from grass and dirt. Then see how it runs

AU N EGL

the straights should cool the engine down a bit.

topmover

The car does have a heat extractor hood.

The radiator is new and is not clogged additionally after the first track day it was pulled and checked to make sure it was flowing.

The areo package is a fully developed proven package so it should work...........we are considering opening up gills in the front below the factory opening. I should also add that the other car has an undertray so essentially the difference is that this car has 3" more of splitter and is lower by the depth of the added material. It's just hard to figure that it by itself would make this car so much less efficient than its twin.

Yes one would think it should cool more in the straights...............particularly when the temps Tuesday morning were in the 70's to low 80's.

I raced the other car with NARRA in July 90+ degrees at VIR and was dog fighting a Viper the whole race and never had to short shift it once....yes it was hot but it never got too hot!

davenp

Are the cars doing the same thing with the same driver? Gear selection and driver input provide alot of variability in the seen temperatures on the track.

Holding the engine in gear or going to a higher gear earlier in turns or being more aggressive with the engine speed will heat up the oil. The ECT will follow suit since it is sitting behind the EOC.

Try switching drivers to see what happens? Keep the engine at as low an RPM as possible when you dont need power...

RX-Ben

Please post a pic. There are many things that could be causing this.

topmover

No doubt how I drive the car affects the temps..........if I drive like most HPDE guys its fine however this car was bought and built to be a ST2 race car. First track day at SP I made two TT laps and ran a 1.184. I then ran ST2 short shifting and ran a 1.20x inorder to keep the temps bearable................but once again this car was built to run 17's and 18's at SP low 2's at VIR in a race. Right now it isn't up to that.

RX Ben I will send you a photo of the fronts of both cars if you want to post them as I don't know how.

Falcon

A C6 Z in ST2? You've either got it throttled back a good bit or it's ballasted a bunch.

topmover

Stock power+235# driver+cage+ballest= ST/TT2 NASA

Stock power+235# driver+cage and 0 ballest=GT/TT2 NARRA

Han Solo

Could it have a clogged AC condenser in front of the radiator? If not I would go ahead and replace the thermostat just in case it is contributing.

topmover

The condenser was removed already and I've already tried it with no thermostat and with a new one, none of which made any difference.

brkntrxn

Do you have the fan shroud opened up for more air flow?

AU N EGL

thinking not enough air is getting to the radiators. and or the water pump is not quite working right.