rithsleeper

Im running a 1989.... Ok, I keep upgrading and keep needing more and more from this car. I instruct for NASA and riding in a c6 z06 is depressing. The brakes were amazing and all I want to do is say "give me this car so I can show you what it really can do!" Unfortunately I don't have the dime. As the student got faster I could feel more and more how awesome those cars are. He did really well and sure he will be pushing its limits in another year.

Meanwhile I'm destroying my car and always want more. Right now I have mods that give me about 230hp to the wheels, c5 front brakes and hawk blues. I have cooling ducts too. I still toast them on continentals 275/35 18. Im still running stock rear disks (yea could be a weak point) but have the z07 spring set/sways. I have a 4pt roll with harness too. I'm still dialing in my shocks and a little suspension setup but its more than enough for my brakes to get toasted.

Problem comes is im getting really close to gathering the last parts to my 383 that will put down 430 to the wheels. My brakes will not be adequate. My fluid never boils, but after about 4 hard laps I'm starting to fade and have toasted them a few times.... I figure for $500 if I can get a set of z calipers for the front it might get me started. I have a propotioning valve already. Should I be shooting for this or upgrade the rears to a c5 setup first? Or should I just go for a c6z in rear and be ready for the c6z up front when I finish the 383?

Will I need a new mounting bracket for the z fronts? All I know is I hate when a car is unbalanced and I continually come short on the brakes. I've come a long way, but its not enough. I also don't have alot of money but then again I also can dedicate all excess funds to this since no kids and not married. Boom.

Hit me guys.

Sidney004

I'd try the Raybestos ST 47's up front and the ST 43's in back and see how that works before spending more money. The Blues are a very old compound, I never liked them all that much myself.

geerookie

Try changing to a better brake pad first!
Cobalt Friction XR1 or XR2 or CL RC5+ or RC6 or AP C300
Any of these will be MUCH better than the Hawks.

brkntrxn

Or Carbotech XP12s up front and XP10s in the rear. Support a Carolina's company!!!

Adam@Amp'dAutosport.com

I would even go XP20 front and XP10 rear. I will be happy to talk with you.

The latest iteration of the highly successful XP™ series of compounds. XP20™ is a step up from the highly successful XP16™ compound. With an extremely aggressive initial bite, the most linear torque curve to date and excellent fade resistance the XP20™ leads the highly successful XP™ series line of compounds from Carbotech™. XP20™ has a temperature range of 275°F to 2000°F+ (135°C to 1093°C+). Carbotech™ XP20™ maintains our tradition of having the outstanding release and modulation that has made all other Carbotech™ compounds so successful. The XP20™ as with other Carbotech™ compounds is very rotor friendly. Carbotech™ XP20™ is NOT recommended for use as a daily driven street pad due to possible elevated levels of dust and noise.

When Carbotech™ unleashed the XP10™ to the general public it was an instant success. XP10™ immediately gathered multiple regional, divisional, and national championships. The XP10™ has a very strong initial bite friction material with a coefficient of friction and rotor friendliness unmatched in the industry. Fade resistance is in excess of 1650°F (898°C). Due to the high level of friction and bite, this material is recommended for cars weighing around 2,900lbs or less. XP10™ still maintains the highly praised release, excellent modulation and rotor friendliness that have made all Carbotech™ compounds so successful. Carbotech™ XP10™ is not recommended as a daily-driven street pad due to possible elevated levels of dust and noise.

Black89Z51

This is what I'm running on the stock calipers on my 89 and I have ZERO fading issues. I'm also running 348 whp and 352 wtq. I've never had an issue with stopping on VIR's back or front straigts. I typically brake between the 5 and 6 boards.

I'm ducted and using DBA rotors and ATE fluid. Tires are Nitto NT01. 275 in the front and 315 in the back.

Give the Carbotechs a try.

Eventually I will be looking for bigger brakes though. I think Wilwood makes a big brake kit.

jaa1992

Thats what I run on my 92!

cwikstro

I run C5 fronts and C4 rears with ST 47's on both ends, never have any fade issues. I would like to do better calipers on mine to see the benefit. I am full race prepped at 2900lbs w/o driver and 450 rwhp. Stopping is good! Would like to brake later for sure.

SunnydayDILYSI

Once you are putting down 430 to the wheels, you'll need a real BBK. I run a C5Z06 with stock calipers at HPDEs (DRM ducts, Quantum spindles, SS lines, Motul 600, titanium heat shields). First weekend in red run group, I spread the calipers even though my main track is relatively slow (MSR in Cresson TX). I also chew through pads fairly quickly; the RP2 endurance pads only last a few weekends. Stock calipers just don't cut it, even the Z06. I'm in the market for new calipers myself.

FASTFATBOY

Put the Carbotech XP20/XP10 on the car like Adam suggested, you will be pleasantly surprised.

I am 3800lbs with 385 to the wheels. My car does well, the pads get used up quickly with me but never had a fade issue.

froggy47

3800 lbs?

FASTFATBOY

Dis is mah barge.

froggy47

SunnydayDILYSI

A 3,800 pound car with 430 rwhp on the track using stock brakes designed for a 3,200 pound car with 380 rwhp on the road sounds like a bad combo to me. I'd go for an aftermarket BBK designed to meet your needs.

rithsleeper

My car is a fatty but its no 3800lbs.... a bbk is going to cost wayyyyy more than a set of z06 brakes. I'm not a big guy (160lbs) and I'm pretty sure the manufacturer doesn't care about a 200lb difference between a c5 and c4. That's just a passenger really.... I've got "18 rims all around when I'm on the track. Ill try the carbotech pads next year since I'm done with track days till 2014.... (yea it stinks I have to wait so long but this is a chance to get the car back to 100% before the next track day....)

I do agree that 430hp is way too much for c5 brakes but thats why I am looking into c6 z06 brakes. The power to weight ratio is reasonably close and with my ducting should even out (I hope). I guess for now till I actually build the engine, ill stick with a better pad. Thanks for the info all.

FASTFATBOY

I have the 3800lb barge. Now probably 3750 with the change in seats.

I disagree on putting HP/Weight limits on C6 base brakes. Mine work ok but go through pads pretty quick.

If you use ducts and the right pad they can be very effective for the money. I don't have a spreading issue even at the cars large weight. I ran the stock pistons in them for 2 years.

My buddy had the same brakes on a 460rwhp, 3300lb Fbody and they did fairly well. That car was damn fast on a NT-05 tire.

I have about $15k total in my car(new LS6, rebuilt trans and rear end etc), I run 17 inch wheels to keep tire costs down(Nt-05's are $660 a set to my door). Its a full streetcar and I use it as such.

So I can't justify a $3500 BBk for this car. I am looking at the Wilwood SL4 and SL6 kits as they fit under my wheels and are cheaper(SL4 kit on here is $1500).

Yes, I know I need a different car. But the shock and awe of "The Mullet" as my friends have named it is way more fun than having the same car everyone else has.

jaa1992

Hey - I like your mullet mobile!

For the OP - unless you have caliper spread - run on the XP12/10 combo and don't worry about the c6 brakes. Mine is 3400 - 3500 lbs at the end of a time trial session. All I have are j55 brakes and they work ok with that combo. I can haul down at the 3 marker at 130ish and make turn 10A at Road Atl. Wish I could do it from the 1 marker - but thats $3K in a BBK package. Then I'd still brake too early

Lawdogg

My C6 Z06 weighs 3408 with me in it. 555 rwhp. I'm running stock calipers with Coleman two piece front rotors and Carbotech xp20s front and xp10s in the rear. Car stops over and over again without fade and modulates perfectly on slicks. #4 brake markers are no problem and #3 markers when necessary.

rithsleeper

that sounds good. i'm going into 10a at 130 but im braking at #4 and sometimes overshooting a bit if I'm on any lap after about 3... then im braking even before that but I'm at 127 when I brake (believe it or not there is a big difference with that 3 mph or at least seems like it). hopefully I will be hitting 140+ after a bigger engine. I'm running continentals.

Adam@Amp'dAutosport.com

I will be happy to help you with your braking needs