RX-Ben

Anyone ever used crapola wheels with truck tires (~32" diameter tires) to deal with loading?
I have a trailer that was used by a circle track racer, and when in the trailer, the car sits on storage bins, which from what I can gather is a pretty hot ticket for that crowd since they like to completely rebuild their cars at the track and switch out large parts (and carry like 5-10 complete sets of shocks, a few rear ends and various other stuff with them at all times).

In any case, I have grown attached to the bins, as they can also function as something of a lift in case I need to work under the car and they allows me to store even more tires and wheels under the car while in transport.

But they pose some loading issues due to my cars stubby ride height and long beak -- and so my fabricator (with a circle track background) suggested a loading wheel/tire setup to give some extra clearance.

Anyone done this? Even if not, any suggestions (like an OEM application) for a set of dirt cheap wheels (ideally stamped steelies) that would fit the bill? I am planning to use 18s with wheel spacers (to clear the brakes) and truck tires.

Thanks.

heavychevy

Took me a minute to figure out what you were talking about, but that's a GREAT idea. If you can find tires that fit. Most cars that need it have very little clearance to begin with.

sperkins

You're far more imaginative than I am. I have no idea what he's talking about.

Bill32

We use wheels like that on the open wheel cars (ground clearance to the bellypan is around 25mm).

On the storage containers, what do the circle track car weigh vs your Corvette? Kinda scary crawling under a Corvette sitting on those.

c4cruiser

The only problem with swapping wheels with large diameter tires is that you may not be able to turn the front wheels or you could see some binding in the wheelwells.

How long are the ramps? Longer ramps should decrease the loading angle. Maybe just some extensions?

Have you tried using the trailer tongue jack to raise the front of the trailer? Leave the trailer hooked up to the tow rig and place a 4x6 under the jack pad and raise the trailer with the jack. That will decrease the loading angle. Or do both; raise the front of the trailer and some 2x8's for ramp extensions.

I would think it would be a PITA to deal with the extra weight of a tire/wheel set along with space for them and that you have to swap tires at the end of a day.

mrc24x

I hear these are pretty light and you may just want to keep them on for the weekend:

RX-Ben

In case this helps, it is a 42' trailer. Enclosed. The bins that the car sits on are incredibly solid.
I'm still considering the ramp route, but keeping a ~4deg ramp angle requires a lot of ramp.

I was looking for a set of cheap OEM wheels...I will probably just try to hunt down a set of beat up wagon wheels or reproductions.

As mentioned, this concept for formula cars:
http://www.rsport.us/Rsport_For_Sale.html

Bill32

Those are what we use.

Before they came out, we fabed a set from junkyard motorcycle wheels.

Black89Z51

Kill it. With fire.

Bill Dearborn

The ramps will need to be long but you don't necessarily need to make the ramp as long as you might think. When you first start onto the ramp it needs to be about your 4 degree angle but as the front tires hit the ramp the front of the car swings upward in an arc that continues until the rear tires are on the ramp. So make two piece ramps with a short lower section at 4 degrees but the longer section that bridges from the short ramp can be at a steeper angle based on how far the nose of your car raises as you come onto the ramps.

Bill