Need help from electrical gurus please.
#1
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Need help from electrical gurus please.
My accusump has quit working again. I have the coil off to test it as it was the culprit last time. I have 12v to the pressure switch both sides but zero at positive of coil. How would I test coil with multimeter - from positive to negative? What do I set mm on and what should it read to OK or not OK?
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
#2
Drifting
Place the MM on ohms and just measure the resistance across the coil. If you don't get a reading then the coil is bad and likely a broken connection some where in the coil which is why the valve is not opening.
If you get an Ohm reading (other than 0), then apply 12v to one lead, then manually ground the other and listen for a click. If it click, the coil is activating and the valve should open. If it does, you coil/valve is probably ok.
If by some chance you get a reading of 0 Ohms, then you have a short in the coil and if that coil was on a fused power line (which it should be) that fuse is probably blown.
If you get an Ohm reading (other than 0), then apply 12v to one lead, then manually ground the other and listen for a click. If it click, the coil is activating and the valve should open. If it does, you coil/valve is probably ok.
If by some chance you get a reading of 0 Ohms, then you have a short in the coil and if that coil was on a fused power line (which it should be) that fuse is probably blown.
#3
Burning Brakes
here is what worked for me
My accusump has quit working again. I have the coil off to test it as it was the culprit last time. I have 12v to the pressure switch both sides but zero at positive of coil. How would I test coil with multimeter - from positive to negative? What do I set mm on and what should it read to OK or not OK?
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
Now for people who generally locate their accusump in the fender well or in front of the radiator isn’t it possible that the canister may be close to a heat source that may heat and expand one side of their canister unevenly?
Just my thoughts on what I found on my car.
Photo can be seen by going to:
http://s1111.photobucket.com/albums/...with%20hithch/
#4
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Place the MM on ohms and just measure the resistance across the coil. If you don't get a reading then the coil is bad and likely a broken connection some where in the coil which is why the valve is not opening.
If you get an Ohm reading (other than 0), then apply 12v to one lead, then manually ground the other and listen for a click. If it click, the coil is activating and the valve should open. If it does, you coil/valve is probably ok.
If by some chance you get a reading of 0 Ohms, then you have a short in the coil and if that coil was on a fused power line (which it should be) that fuse is probably blown.
If you get an Ohm reading (other than 0), then apply 12v to one lead, then manually ground the other and listen for a click. If it click, the coil is activating and the valve should open. If it does, you coil/valve is probably ok.
If by some chance you get a reading of 0 Ohms, then you have a short in the coil and if that coil was on a fused power line (which it should be) that fuse is probably blown.
#5
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Well, I run 12v straight to coil, and then grounded to frame and nothing happened. Seems like the circuit was made as the ground was arcing as I was touching the frame. I am going with bad coil. Unfortunately, Canton does not use this coil anymore, they use another that is similar, but not exactly the same housing size, but I think it will work. Unfortunately, they are on back order. So I guess I will be doing my VIR track day Monday without the accusump.
Thanks for the help though.
Thanks for the help though.