LS6 Piston failure Cylinder #7 ST 2 Race car
#1
Racer
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LS6 Piston failure Cylinder #7 ST 2 Race car
Hey guys,
Was at the track heard what I thought was a bad lifter later to find that I did have a lifter go bad but also found a huge chunk out of my pistion when i pulled the head. All in cylinder #7. I have a Stock powered LS6 and want to purchase a new shortblock. The car is a race car and will see 8-10 events per year. I want to stick to the stock power ratings.
What type of short block should I purchase and from who? What are your recomendations.
Was at the track heard what I thought was a bad lifter later to find that I did have a lifter go bad but also found a huge chunk out of my pistion when i pulled the head. All in cylinder #7. I have a Stock powered LS6 and want to purchase a new shortblock. The car is a race car and will see 8-10 events per year. I want to stick to the stock power ratings.
What type of short block should I purchase and from who? What are your recomendations.
#2
Safety Car
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I would contact DRM Motorsports and can see what they can offer. They have always done well for me with their products. You might also look at Texas Speed - they build a wide variety of engines on the LS platform.
#5
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That is the same piston that was eaten in mine at VIR. Was only able to salvage the camshaft. Had only a little over 2 hrs on brand new AFR heads. Some folks put a little richer injector in that hole. Conservative AFR is the order of the day. Just make it better next time around.
#6
Drifting
well I had same problem on my LS6 I went with a shortblock from http://www.schwankeshortblocks.com/ They seemed to have quite a bit of knowledge on the LS motors for racing applications.
#9
Safety Car
Not sure if anyone has gotton the bottom of the #7 ills, this post HERE is the closest I've seen to any insight.
As mentioned, another guess is crud due to the rail design, either in the rail or in the injector.
Another idea floating around is the intake manifold design, but Kurt's testing seems to disprove that.
Would be great if we had cylinder-specific tuning ability, but you'll need to dish out for an aftermarket piece for that, or at least a piggy-back injector controller.
As mentioned, another guess is crud due to the rail design, either in the rail or in the injector.
Another idea floating around is the intake manifold design, but Kurt's testing seems to disprove that.
Would be great if we had cylinder-specific tuning ability, but you'll need to dish out for an aftermarket piece for that, or at least a piggy-back injector controller.
#10
Melting Slicks
Not sure if anyone has gotton the bottom of the #7 ills, this post HERE is the closest I've seen to any insight.
As mentioned, another guess is crud due to the rail design, either in the rail or in the injector.
Another idea floating around is the intake manifold design, but Kurt's testing seems to disprove that.
Would be great if we had cylinder-specific tuning ability, but you'll need to dish out for an aftermarket piece for that, or at least a piggy-back injector controller.
As mentioned, another guess is crud due to the rail design, either in the rail or in the injector.
Another idea floating around is the intake manifold design, but Kurt's testing seems to disprove that.
Would be great if we had cylinder-specific tuning ability, but you'll need to dish out for an aftermarket piece for that, or at least a piggy-back injector controller.
These two tied together will for sure do it.
#12
Safety Car
Generally, yes. But this is a specific (localized) problem. My guess is that the World Challenge cars that had the issue were running wetter (or the cheaper drop of dish soap) and still had the problem.
#14
Melting Slicks
#16
Melting Slicks
#17
Drifting
The heads are tapped already. just have to pull out the block and replace with something else. I did that a few years back using something like this: http://www.kurturbanperformance.com/...-adapters.html
#19
Former Vendor
#20
Seems like someone dropped the ball. Typical of engineers to change something to solve a problem without looking at the reasons WHY it was there in the first place.
I would know because I've worked with those kind of engineers and I try to remember the lessons I've taken from the past so I do not make the same mistakes.
With that said, some seem to be going overkill on the vent sizes. I've seen an3- an4 lines coming off the 4 corners. This to me is marketing.
Do most people run a lower thermostat to combat the issue?
I would know because I've worked with those kind of engineers and I try to remember the lessons I've taken from the past so I do not make the same mistakes.
With that said, some seem to be going overkill on the vent sizes. I've seen an3- an4 lines coming off the 4 corners. This to me is marketing.
Do most people run a lower thermostat to combat the issue?