Power Steering Fluid Leak - Need Advice!
12-23-2013, 07:18 PM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Power Steering Fluid Leak - Need Advice!
Hi guys, I started developing a power steering fluid leak and had trouble locating it by myself, so I went to a nearby Chevy dealership to have them put it on a lift to evaluate and get the ball rolling to get it fixed. They got back with me and said the pump and steering rack / gear are both leaking pretty bad.
They quoted $3340, and then dropped it to $2845 when I balked at the first price. They noted that a new pump and steering rack are life-time warrantied, and said they were OK with my base 2007 C6 the way it is for warranty repair on it going forward (racing seat, 5 pt harness, engine mods but generally stock suspension except alignment). Without it in writing, that means almost nothing - I realize that -- but still a bit reassuring that this service manager might work with me going forward.
Here's my question: are there beefier / better parts out there than the OEM pump and rack that I should be looking at given I will probably do 15 HPDE days in 2014? I'm not sure how sturdy OEM steering components are, but wasn't too happy to see a $3300 price with only 15 HPDE days and 32,000 miles so far on the life of the car.
I'm a decent weekend mechanic for small repairs and maintenance, but replacing a rack is beyond my ability / skills, so I need a shop to do the work in all scenarios.
Advice requested!
Thanks,
Dan
They quoted $3340, and then dropped it to $2845 when I balked at the first price. They noted that a new pump and steering rack are life-time warrantied, and said they were OK with my base 2007 C6 the way it is for warranty repair on it going forward (racing seat, 5 pt harness, engine mods but generally stock suspension except alignment). Without it in writing, that means almost nothing - I realize that -- but still a bit reassuring that this service manager might work with me going forward.
Here's my question: are there beefier / better parts out there than the OEM pump and rack that I should be looking at given I will probably do 15 HPDE days in 2014? I'm not sure how sturdy OEM steering components are, but wasn't too happy to see a $3300 price with only 15 HPDE days and 32,000 miles so far on the life of the car.
I'm a decent weekend mechanic for small repairs and maintenance, but replacing a rack is beyond my ability / skills, so I need a shop to do the work in all scenarios.Advice requested!
Thanks,
Dan
12-23-2013, 09:18 PM
#3
Safety Car
Member Since: Nov 2000
Location: Shenandoah Valley Virginia
Posts: 4,549
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Even the second lower price is outrageous. There is no way that both the rack and pump are defective and need to be replaced. Don't bend over for that thief dealer !!
You need to do some clean up and examination yourself before you take what the dealership says is gospel. Get yourself two cans on brakeklene at the local parts store. Jack up the front of the car and take off the left front wheel. Spray all the affected areas with the klene to remove the existing PS fluid. Work spraying from the top in the engine compartment also.
Once you have it clean and wiped down, put the wheel back on, fill up the PS pump reservoir and drive the car 20 miles or so. Bring it back into the garage, jack up again and remove wheel. Now you should be able to see where the leak is coming from.
My guess is a defective high pressure hose or maybe a leak on the pulley seal on the PS pump.
Especially if you track the car, use replacement pump or rack from Turn One. http://turnone.squarespace.com/ They sell pumps and racks that are specifically modified for track usage. BE SURE to use a good quality synthetic PS fluid like Redine or Joe Gibbs.
Don't let that damn dealer screw you on this repair.
You need to do some clean up and examination yourself before you take what the dealership says is gospel. Get yourself two cans on brakeklene at the local parts store. Jack up the front of the car and take off the left front wheel. Spray all the affected areas with the klene to remove the existing PS fluid. Work spraying from the top in the engine compartment also.
Once you have it clean and wiped down, put the wheel back on, fill up the PS pump reservoir and drive the car 20 miles or so. Bring it back into the garage, jack up again and remove wheel. Now you should be able to see where the leak is coming from.
My guess is a defective high pressure hose or maybe a leak on the pulley seal on the PS pump.
Especially if you track the car, use replacement pump or rack from Turn One. http://turnone.squarespace.com/ They sell pumps and racks that are specifically modified for track usage. BE SURE to use a good quality synthetic PS fluid like Redine or Joe Gibbs.
Don't let that damn dealer screw you on this repair.
12-24-2013, 07:49 AM
#4
Racer
Thread Starter
12-24-2013, 07:52 AM
#5
Racer
Thread Starter
Even the second lower price is outrageous. There is no way that both the rack and pump are defective and need to be replaced. Don't bend over for that thief dealer !!
You need to do some clean up and examination yourself before you take what the dealership says is gospel. Get yourself two cans on brakeklene at the local parts store. Jack up the front of the car and take off the left front wheel. Spray all the affected areas with the klene to remove the existing PS fluid. Work spraying from the top in the engine compartment also.
Once you have it clean and wiped down, put the wheel back on, fill up the PS pump reservoir and drive the car 20 miles or so. Bring it back into the garage, jack up again and remove wheel. Now you should be able to see where the leak is coming from.
My guess is a defective high pressure hose or maybe a leak on the pulley seal on the PS pump.
Especially if you track the car, use replacement pump or rack from Turn One. http://turnone.squarespace.com/ They sell pumps and racks that are specifically modified for track usage. BE SURE to use a good quality synthetic PS fluid like Redine or Joe Gibbs.
Don't let that damn dealer screw you on this repair.
You need to do some clean up and examination yourself before you take what the dealership says is gospel. Get yourself two cans on brakeklene at the local parts store. Jack up the front of the car and take off the left front wheel. Spray all the affected areas with the klene to remove the existing PS fluid. Work spraying from the top in the engine compartment also.
Once you have it clean and wiped down, put the wheel back on, fill up the PS pump reservoir and drive the car 20 miles or so. Bring it back into the garage, jack up again and remove wheel. Now you should be able to see where the leak is coming from.
My guess is a defective high pressure hose or maybe a leak on the pulley seal on the PS pump.
Especially if you track the car, use replacement pump or rack from Turn One. http://turnone.squarespace.com/ They sell pumps and racks that are specifically modified for track usage. BE SURE to use a good quality synthetic PS fluid like Redine or Joe Gibbs.
Don't let that damn dealer screw you on this repair.
12-24-2013, 09:45 AM
#6
Safety Car
Member Since: Nov 2000
Location: Shenandoah Valley Virginia
Posts: 4,549
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Good Idea on going to 21CMC - they have a good reputation as far as I know. Don't purchase parts yet. Get their analysis of problem areas first. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. 21CMC can source repair parts from Turn One for what ever is defective.
12-24-2013, 12:19 PM
#7
Track Junky
I agree with the Turn One idea. They rebuild steering racks for about $250 and their pump is under $300. The pump has lower flow, but isn't too noticeable at slow engine speeds. Can't notice at all at normal driving speeds.
Plenty of DIYs out there for rack R&R, so I would recommend giving that a try before you drop that much money at a dealer.
Plenty of DIYs out there for rack R&R, so I would recommend giving that a try before you drop that much money at a dealer.
12-24-2013, 01:24 PM
#8
Race Director
This shows the rack removal. I have 4 or 5 other videos regarding ps pump and steering rack service.
You should watch these so you can see what's going on when you get it done (or maybe try diy).
I did the videos for a balancer r&r but I show pulling the rack, watch them all & you will see 100% of the job.
You should watch these so you can see what's going on when you get it done (or maybe try diy).
I did the videos for a balancer r&r but I show pulling the rack, watch them all & you will see 100% of the job.
12-24-2013, 02:37 PM
#9
Drifting
I've had the rack replaced on my track car and it didn't cost 2800 bucks. Take it to a good shop. I use the guys at Quality Motorsports for all my track car work.
How bad is it leaking? How big is the puddle over what amount of time. I had a leaky rack, had a shop (not QMS) take the rack out, put it back in and said they couldn't find the leak and charged be 1200 bucks. I was pissed I paid for labor and they just put the leaky rack back in.
Turns out the leak I had came from the little grommet where the two wires go inside the rack. Bet anything that's where you leak is. What I did was find a second rack, sent it to turn one to be rebuilt. Also replaced the pump and pulley as well, this will keep the pressures down at the continuous high RMPs on the track.
Getting the rack out is a bit of a pain, you don't need a lift but it sure as hell helps to have one. It was worth it to pay someone else to do it.
Tracking the car kills the rack with heat, mine is already starting to seep again from one of the outside seals. I have my old rack in the garage and probably need to send it back to be rebuilt.
How bad is it leaking? How big is the puddle over what amount of time. I had a leaky rack, had a shop (not QMS) take the rack out, put it back in and said they couldn't find the leak and charged be 1200 bucks. I was pissed I paid for labor and they just put the leaky rack back in.
Turns out the leak I had came from the little grommet where the two wires go inside the rack. Bet anything that's where you leak is. What I did was find a second rack, sent it to turn one to be rebuilt. Also replaced the pump and pulley as well, this will keep the pressures down at the continuous high RMPs on the track.
Getting the rack out is a bit of a pain, you don't need a lift but it sure as hell helps to have one. It was worth it to pay someone else to do it.
Tracking the car kills the rack with heat, mine is already starting to seep again from one of the outside seals. I have my old rack in the garage and probably need to send it back to be rebuilt.
12-24-2013, 09:22 PM
#10
Racer
Thread Starter
Froggy, your DIY videos have been useful in the past. I will be sure to learn from this one as well. 
This shows the rack removal. I have 4 or 5 other videos regarding ps pump and steering rack service.
You should watch these so you can see what's going on when you get it done (or maybe try diy).
I did the videos for a balancer r&r but I show pulling the rack, watch them all & you will see 100% of the job.
Corvette steering rack and balancer removal by froggy complete - YouTube
You should watch these so you can see what's going on when you get it done (or maybe try diy).
I did the videos for a balancer r&r but I show pulling the rack, watch them all & you will see 100% of the job.
Corvette steering rack and balancer removal by froggy complete - YouTube
12-24-2013, 09:32 PM
#11
Racer
Thread Starter
I've had the rack replaced on my track car and it didn't cost 2800 bucks. Take it to a good shop. I use the guys at Quality Motorsports for all my track car work.
How bad is it leaking? How big is the puddle over what amount of time. I had a leaky rack, had a shop (not QMS) take the rack out, put it back in and said they couldn't find the leak and charged be 1200 bucks. I was pissed I paid for labor and they just put the leaky rack back in.
Turns out the leak I had came from the little grommet where the two wires go inside the rack. Bet anything that's where you leak is. What I did was find a second rack, sent it to turn one to be rebuilt. Also replaced the pump and pulley as well, this will keep the pressures down at the continuous high RMPs on the track.
Getting the rack out is a bit of a pain, you don't need a lift but it sure as hell helps to have one. It was worth it to pay someone else to do it.
Tracking the car kills the rack with heat, mine is already starting to seep again from one of the outside seals. I have my old rack in the garage and probably need to send it back to be rebuilt.
How bad is it leaking? How big is the puddle over what amount of time. I had a leaky rack, had a shop (not QMS) take the rack out, put it back in and said they couldn't find the leak and charged be 1200 bucks. I was pissed I paid for labor and they just put the leaky rack back in.
Turns out the leak I had came from the little grommet where the two wires go inside the rack. Bet anything that's where you leak is. What I did was find a second rack, sent it to turn one to be rebuilt. Also replaced the pump and pulley as well, this will keep the pressures down at the continuous high RMPs on the track.
Getting the rack out is a bit of a pain, you don't need a lift but it sure as hell helps to have one. It was worth it to pay someone else to do it.
Tracking the car kills the rack with heat, mine is already starting to seep again from one of the outside seals. I have my old rack in the garage and probably need to send it back to be rebuilt.
12-24-2013, 09:34 PM
#12
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Oct 1999
Location: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
Posts: 40,089
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5,333 Posts
If the pump seal is leaking it may blow out the next time you go to the track. I have lost a bunch of C5 and C6 of pumps and racks over the years. Luckily, warranty or GMPP paid for all of them. A lot of times if one goes the other isn't far behind.
As others have said check out the Turn 1 option. The stock pump can't take the continuous high rpms that you see on a road course. Basically, it burns itself out. If you have sufficient PS cooling stock pumps and racks will survive but you will have to add a fairly large cooler to do that.
Bill
As others have said check out the Turn 1 option. The stock pump can't take the continuous high rpms that you see on a road course. Basically, it burns itself out. If you have sufficient PS cooling stock pumps and racks will survive but you will have to add a fairly large cooler to do that.
Bill
12-24-2013, 11:21 PM
#13
Race Director
If the pump seal is leaking it may blow out the next time you go to the track. I have lost a bunch of C5 and C6 of pumps and racks over the years. Luckily, warranty or GMPP paid for all of them. A lot of times if one goes the other isn't far behind.
As others have said check out the Turn 1 option. The stock pump can't take the continuous high rpms that you see on a road course. Basically, it burns itself out. If you have sufficient PS cooling stock pumps and racks will survive but you will have to add a fairly large cooler to do that.
Bill
As others have said check out the Turn 1 option. The stock pump can't take the continuous high rpms that you see on a road course. Basically, it burns itself out. If you have sufficient PS cooling stock pumps and racks will survive but you will have to add a fairly large cooler to do that.
Bill
If you go with a Turn One pump & high quality syn fluid I think the rack will survive a long time. Bigger cooler is a really good thing if you are doing as many as Bill, if you do 3 -5 a year the stock is probably ok. I spent some time on the phone with Turn One tech line & they said the racks last pretty well, IF they don't get too hot. Heat kills the seals.
Last edited by froggy47; 12-24-2013 at 11:24 PM.
12-25-2013, 09:28 AM
#14
Racer
Thread Starter
If the pump seal is leaking it may blow out the next time you go to the track. I have lost a bunch of C5 and C6 of pumps and racks over the years. Luckily, warranty or GMPP paid for all of them. A lot of times if one goes the other isn't far behind.
As others have said check out the Turn 1 option. The stock pump can't take the continuous high rpms that you see on a road course. Basically, it burns itself out. If you have sufficient PS cooling stock pumps and racks will survive but you will have to add a fairly large cooler to do that.
Bill
As others have said check out the Turn 1 option. The stock pump can't take the continuous high rpms that you see on a road course. Basically, it burns itself out. If you have sufficient PS cooling stock pumps and racks will survive but you will have to add a fairly large cooler to do that.
Bill
Dan
12-31-2013, 07:02 AM
#15
Racer
I did the turn 1 pump after mine went out also. Fluid would make it to the pulley and cover everything from being slug all over the place. I had to degrease and pressure wash the engine bay twice before I was 100% sure it was the pump. I also recall removing my rack with the car on jack stands in the garage when I pinned the crankshaft. It was a PITA but did come out.
12-31-2013, 01:15 PM
#16
Race Director
I did the turn 1 pump after mine went out also. Fluid would make it to the pulley and cover everything from being slug all over the place. I had to degrease and pressure wash the engine bay twice before I was 100% sure it was the pump. I also recall removing my rack with the car on jack stands in the garage when I pinned the crankshaft. It was a PITA but did come out.
12-31-2013, 05:51 PM
#18
Racer