rbeckham

I just installed the DRM ducts. (BTW - Don't believe DRMs "one hour install" guidance).

Exactly what should I point the ducting to? Without the flexible ducts in place, it seems that the plastic pieces are pretty well positioned to direct air to the front half of the rotor without worrying about the flex tubing. If I install the flex tubing, I should be able to get more of the air rearward toward the caliper itself. Anyone know what the optimal setup would be?

HittinD.Apex

I couldn't help but notice all the mods you have listed for your car. I was unaware that changing your heads and cam still kept you legal for A Street Prepared. I know porting and polishing the intake, as well as port matching the heads only to 1in. in is allowed. Or perhaps you are of the "run it until someone says something" persuasion. I just know if someone from my region was freely advertising his mods, I'd call him on it. :nono:

no cure

gawd, autoxers are LOL

install the flextubing. point is as close as practical to the caliper.

David

I don't do cones

rbeckham

Apex - Though I have not done a lot of autocrossing (this is my second season) my understanding is that any C5 may use the ZO6 engine or parts in ASP (they certainly can in T-1). The logic is, of course, is that you are competing with the ZO6s in the same class and in basically the same car, though with a small weight penalty.

I have the GCR but not the SOLO rules, so basically I am going by the GCR. Let me know in more detail if you think this is not legal. I would hope that someone tries to make sure the rules are somewhat consistent between the two. (I installed the DRM ducts because they were just approved by the SCCA for T-1; assume they are also for ASP).

FYI - I am actually running in SM2 this year for other reasons, but I would still like to know (if it is true) why ASP ZO6s can use the ZO6 engine but other ASP C5s in the same class cannot. Perhaps an SCCA person can explain.

Richin Chicago

Just point the flexible ducts straight ahead and close to the rotors as possible. Don't worry about the calipers as the rotors act like a giant heat sink. I got to see the C5R's up real close and saw that they have nearly the identical set up. I wonder if that is where DRM got the design?

Oh BTW make sure you turn the steering wheel from lock to lock several times to make sure you have the hoses tight enough so they don't pull off. Make sure you get the hose clamps real tight as they expand with heat.

rbeckham

(Ritchin) - Thanks. It's just that the rotors of course are 13" in diameter, and wondered if there might be a particular point (such as the caliper area) where the cold air might serve best.

(For Apex): Someone just loaned me the SCCA SOLO rules, and I quote regarding Street Prepared:

"Equipment may be exchanged between different years and models of a vehicle if (a) the item was standard on the year/model from which it was taken and (b) the years/models are listed on the same line in appendix A" (which FYI lists simply 'C5, 97+'). So this covers the ZO6 engine.

It also says: "Wheels of any diameter, width, or offset may be used."

And: "Any shock absorbers may be used, providing they attach to the original mounting points."

And: "Any sway bar is permitted."

And: "Springs must be of the same type as the original and...must use the original mounting points."

And: "Air ducts may be fitted to the brakes."

So I guess I am still looking for what got your feathers aflutter. Please let me know and I will do everything I can do be as legal as possible. Regards, Robert

no cure

once the DRM front brake ducts are installed, you will no longer be able to go lock to lock with out hitting the ducts. a small (& worthwhile) trade off for the cooling. some put "brake ducts" stickers on their steering wheel (for a while) to remind them. you have to change your street driving 'style' to accommodate the ducts else you will ruin them. they are thin, an when the wheels are turning, scraping against the plastic ducts will (relatively) quickly eat thru them. no more lock to lock K turns or full lock parking lot maneuvers. she's a wide beast captain.

Very Important Note - one CAN NOT tell if there is proper clearance (tween the front wheels & the brake ducts) with the front wheels unweighted. IE, it will appear that there is an interference issue when the car is up on stands and you turn the wheel. put her on the ground before trying to evaluate this.

for some pictures (& discussion) see http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=198827

no cure

No, I was TOTALLY WRONG!

was thinking of something else.

the flexhoses go nowhere near the calipers. just point them at the rotors, as close as possible.

SOrry!

au contraire, David

so sue me :)

Richin Chicago

Are you running extra width tires? Wheels? I've checked mine to the point of going full lock both ways and putting my hand in and also listening. I hear no noise and there is no marks.. Must be dfiiferent tolerances on the inner fender well?

no cure

no, it's too much wine with dinner. day-um, I'm a space cadet today. I run 9.5 front wheels, one inch wider than stock. though I could SWEAR (really) that it was hitting with the stock wheels..

rbeckham

Ritchin & No Cure - Thanks again. Yes, I already figured out that with the car on stands, it is impossible to check for clearance. With the suspension compressed, you still can't be sure about transient conditions, but they seem to work fine with my street wheels (9.5/18s).

However, I have not driven the car with my race wheels (10/17s w/275-17 Kumhos). I'll bolt these on this weekend and find out for sure.

(Edited to add: I have 11/18 CCW fronts (and 12/17 rears) on order from John at Racewheel for autocross only. This may be a different story. But now I have installed the ducts once, I can probably switch them on and off pretty easily if necessary for the track).


[Modified by rbeckham, 9:57 PM 7/11/2002]