Shaun R

Picked up a used z07 spring and the pads had already been trimmed down by the previous owner. Spring is installed and happy with the height, just under 26" to top of fender on 275/40-17. Is the rubber pad not necessary, or should I be picking up an aftermarket option? Not worried about the ride, it's pretty much a track only car at this point.

Kubs

I dont think they are really necessary. Maybe a thin piece of teflon under the end to protect the fiberglass from the control arm would be a good idea.

froggy47

There should be somethng roundish and sort of slippery so movement can happen, maybe a big flat washer "thing" made of delrin/nylon/etc.

I would epoxy it to the bottom of the spring.

This can be a source of squeek/creak but you said it's a track car so...

If the spring were to wear a groove or ridge in the arm it could be a sticking point for suspension movement or maybe it would wear a smooth spot, not sure.

NASCAR314

I was told by Tommy Morrison Racing (a long time ago) that nothing was needed between the composite spring and the A-arm seat, except some synthetic grease.

I've run mine that way since about 2002 on my C4. I do drop the A-arm and clean the spring seat area of any rocks / sand etc..., and regrease with the same syn. grease I use on my poly bushings. Just don't over-do the grease as it attracts dirt. Just a thin film.

froggy47

It just occured to me, how do you guys corner balance & adj ride height without the adjusters?

Solofast

There are no adjusters on the front of a C4, the only adjustment is in the back with the rear bolts.

Shaun R

Thanks! I'll leave it as is for now and keep an eye on it. Happy with the heigth and ready to get back on the rack. Occasional arm drop shouldn't have any effect on my allignment.

Kubs

I made mine adjustable:

rfn026

Interesting

Richard Newton

eogel

I made mine adjustable also. The difference from Kubs is mine adjusts between the A arm and spring. Mine pushes the spring up off of the A arm. It requires you to drill a hole in the spring, as does Kubs. There is not enough adjustment to justify the effort, but I did it as an experiment. Have no pictures.

NASCAR314

Seems to me that coil-overs would be an easier solution if you absolutely needed that much adjustment. Otherwise you adjust corner weight from the back corners.

Black89Z51

I ordered the VB&P Sport suspension and it came with adjustable pads on the ends of the spring that allow me to adjust ride height and corner weight.

Really happy with the setup though. Only thing i'm going to be doing in the forseeable future is Banski setup in the rear.

rfn026

The reason we're talking about adjustability is really all about the corner weights. Here's an article I did last year about corner weights.

I'm interested in how close you can get with the adjustable front springs?

Richard Newton

Solofast

With my stock C4's I could get pretty close with the rear screws only, but usually one was maxed out one way and one was maxed out the other. IIRC the RR was unscrewed until it was hitting the cotter key and the LR was screwed up as tight as it could go..

Kubs

I have not had mine on scales yet to see how close I can get it. For the rear I have longer bolts and spacers/shims. I have plenty of adjustment on either end if needed.

The VBP spring others have mentioned does come with adjustable ends, but I have no money so I made my own.

Black89Z51

The place that did my corner weighting were able to get within about 30 lbs of the other side. I'm sitting at 51% F and 49% rear as well. But that will change to probably 50/50 once the fuel cell is installed.