Soma07

Anyone have a picture of how the endlinks are supposed to be oriented on a Addco 32mm swaybar?

A have a used one a friend gave me. It came with some heim jointed endlinks but due to the weird angle of the swaybar end and the mounting tab on the control arm there doesn't appear to be any orientation in which they will work without binding. The joints appear to not have enough articulation to work and adding washers as spacers just makes it worse.

Already tried the stock endlinks and they won't work either due to the werid angle.

I've installed lots of swaybars but never run into this before.

Any suggestions before I chuck this thing and get something else?

RX-Ben

post pics

froggy47

You use different sized sleeves to orient them, not washers.



Watch my video about spring replacement, may help.

Soma07

Thanks Froggy!

Unfortauntely the "sleeves" are pressed into the ball of the heim joints I have. They may actually be part of the ball itself.

Either way there's no way to adjust or reorient them.

RX-Ben

Those are high misalignment rod ends. You can get "regular" ones and shim, if that helps, but it would be helpful to see a pic of what the situation looks like.

69autoXr

I think my 32 mm bar is an Addco. I bought it used on the forum from alextz and I think he got it from Strano parts.

When I put it on I had to support the control arms to bring them up relative to the frame, I couldn't get the links in otherwise. Stock links here.

froggy47

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ha...FexcMgodK0kAjQ

See above, what I use.

I would not use those, they are what is called mohawk style (like the stylized "Indian" haircut.

They are cheaper to make, not close tolerance, loosen up quicker (think one track session).

I tried 3 or 4 heim joints (threads all over this forum) and settled on qa1 x series. Aurora is another very good brand but more $$.

The qa1 i pictured is called a 3 piece heim, tight tolerances, stays tight (mine over 2.5 years hard use) uses adjustable (size) sleeves to orient.

el es tu

That endlink assembly looks fine.

It seems obvious, but the car should be on a level platform when installing/ adjusting the sway bar setup.

Adjusting the length of the endlink, as well as using longer bolts and adding/removing spacers to the bolts will allow adjustment to where you can get the bar neutral.

The more length you add in terms of spacers between the ball joint and attachment point (swaybar or control arm tab), the longer the link needs to be.

froggy47

If you try to adjust them again, BEFORE you start with any connections feel by hand the tightness or looseness of the ball in the socket end. If there is ANY movement at all it is worn out, it will make noise (click/clunk) and will add less than optimum performance to the sway bar. You should feel some resistance to the movement of the ball in the socket. Compare to a NEW one, preferably a 3 piece like the one in the link I posted.

If it has no resistance or noticable loose fit toss it, it's done. My guess is you'll find them loose.

Like spinning a new wheel bearing you should NOT be able to spin it, it should resist, a loose fit/spinning means it's shot.

el es tu

btw if you need to use spacers, use "steel spacers" cut to whatever length you need. Theyre typically a couple bucks a piece and you can find them in the hardware aisle in Lowes (for some reason their website isnt pulling up the 1/2" ID ones but they should have two different lengths to choose from - I usedthe larger ones to cut more spacers out). Avoid brass spacers because they typically have thicker walls and will lose you a few more degrees of movement.

Like froggy said, you dont want to use washers as spacers right up against the balljoint, or youll limit the articulation of the part and have the sway bar load up much earlier.