GKennedy

Hi !
I did myself poly bushing, T1 sway bar and shock , then I drove the car to a shop for a alignment.( 2003 Z06)
I asked -3 for camber ( recommendation of PDAFT ) they call me later and told me that they could do max of -2.6 with the stock arm and bolt.

How did you guys go up to -3 or I have read -3.5 on this forum?

Thanks for your advise.

mgarfias

toss the stock eccentrics and put in hard bar's camber plates

Lawdogg

Remove the washers where the upper control arms are bolted to the frame. With the concentrics maxed and the washers removed from the upper control arm, -3 degrees will be easy.

Bill Dearborn

It varies quite a bit from car to car. Even when removing the spacers behind the upper control arms I could never get over -2.5 degrees on my 97 or 03Z. With Camber Plates I could just get close to -3.

With my C6Z I could get -3 with the cams but can only reach -2.5 degrees with Pfadt camber plates.

Bill

Hi Volts Z06

I had the exact same experience with my 2002 C5Z. The number of washers varies from car to car and is due to slight tolerances in the manufacturing process. The factory is only concerned that the stock settings can be met. I'd go with the camber plates from Hard Bar (I have the Pfadt but that's obviously not an option anymore!)

froggy47

You need camber plates. The Pfadt kit was a really nice bit of hardware I installed. Hardbar should work well too.



It would be really ez to make your own. All you really need is the one plate that kicks the bottom arm out over 3 deg. then shim the upper at the frame to get it where you want. Set toe. Voila.

GKennedy

EH Froggy BTW I watch a lot of your video and they are useful thanks !

Does it wrth to buy tool and do alignment yourself ???

If yes, without a car lift that means that you have to raise the car with a floor jack, play with the adjustment then put the car back on is weight, read the camber with the tool, and realize that you gave .3 degree to much, so you restart again the process.....until you got it
It can take for ever....or there is a way that I donot know?

froggy47

You need to have the time, money for the alignment tools, basic knowledge of what you are trying to do.

It was worth it for me, I could not find a local shop at a fair price that knew the principles of alignment.

They knew how to put the car on a rack and turn stuff until the light went green and it was "in spec" which actually means "close enough".

Then there was the shop that did not torque the eccentric bolts (back when I first had them) and I ruined 4 710's at an event when they came loose (f#$%ing idiot).

If my alignment is already close to good, I can usually just add/subtract the correct thickness shim (Pfadt kit comes with 3 sizes) that has already been calculated to .5 degree of camber.

So it's more of a calculation than a measurement. One try.

If I'm starting from scratch it could take 2 tries. Maybe 3 if you don't quite know what to do. So yes it can be a few hours when you first learn it.

For toe I use smart strings which hang off the car. My driveway slopes a lot so I do the rear with the car on the ground, I can reach the adjusters, the front I drive up on ramps to reach the tie rod ends. Once should do it.

vette6aut0x

I have what you need. PM me.

David