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Rear upper control arm bushing replacement?

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Old 03-06-2014, 10:22 PM
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Chris Edwards
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Default Rear upper control arm bushing replacement?

I recently installed Pfadt inverted adjustable shocks front/ rear, Pfadt "Johnny O'Connell" swaybars front/ rear with heim joint endlinks, GM T1 front upper control arms, and a Hardbar camber kit. I also lowered the car on stock bolts as far as it would go. I plan to corner weight the car and do an aggressive street/ track alignment per Pfadt's website.

The alignment shop says my rear upper control arm bushings need replacing. I bought this car as a road trip/ HPDE car, NOT to set any track records. I will be running Hoosier R6's 315/35/17 and 335/35/17 at the track. I really don't want a squeeky/ harsh ride around town. A stock Z06 is harsh enough... what are my options in terms of rear upper control arm bushings?

Can the stock bushings be replaced or does the whole control arm need to be replaced? Should I go poly or spherical (would prefer not to)?

I also need to replace me rear tie rods... again not sure if I should go GM/ Moog on these or go with the Zip kit.

Help me get this thing back together, I've had it up on the lift for several nights and would love to be able to track it!
Old 03-07-2014, 11:03 AM
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CHJ In Virginia
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Your only option to stay with stock bushings is to go with the OEM A Arm. They are not available any other way. I would not recommend doing a partial install on poly or other non OEM bushings. Do them all or stay stock. Poly will increase the NVH on the car a bit but it is not objectionable for every day use. The key is getting them properly lubricated on install then they are as quiet as stock.
Old 03-07-2014, 12:08 PM
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Chris Edwards
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Is there any way to get the rubber bushings to live on the road course on slicks or am I looking to replace them after every track event?
Old 03-07-2014, 12:28 PM
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hungryhippo
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Well, it is a 13 year old car so it is probably normal wear. Rubber should last for a few years with slicks on a HPDE car, but I don't know what your options are. It's the front uppers that don't last long.
Old 03-07-2014, 12:44 PM
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Chris Edwards
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That's great news! I was able to find a set of new T1 upper arms for the front that I've just installed. Now I just need a source for replacement rear upper arms. EBay?? My rear tie rods are also shot on the drivers side... Any tips there? I'm still confused on whether I should get the zip bump steer kit or stock replacements?
Old 03-07-2014, 01:05 PM
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sperkins
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I've worked on many super high mileage C5's and I've never seen the upper rear bushings go bad. Those should be the last ones to wear out.
Old 03-07-2014, 02:13 PM
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geerookie
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Originally Posted by sperkins
I've worked on many super high mileage C5's and I've never seen the upper rear bushings go bad. Those should be the last ones to wear out.


I would just go with the Moog tie rods. I your case there is no real benefit to using the ZIP units.
Old 03-07-2014, 02:30 PM
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Chris Edwards
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Originally Posted by geerookie


I would just go with the Moog tie rods. I your case there is no real benefit to using the ZIP units.
So the Moogs are known to last? I've heard that guys wear out their stock replacement tie rods after two track events?
Old 03-08-2014, 01:20 AM
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magracy
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just replaced my rubber bushings for poly. after 140,000 miles my rubber still looked new.
Old 03-08-2014, 12:55 PM
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Chris Edwards
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Guys just as an update, I put the car up in the air last night and inspected. Definite play coming from the passenger side outer tie rod end (can wiggle the wheel left and right about a 1/4"). I actually could not see any deterioration to the upper control arm bushings so I'm not sure what chassis shop saw there. I ordered 2 new Ecklers rear outer tie rods this morning, will keep y'all posted.
Old 03-08-2014, 03:57 PM
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sperkins
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Maybe he thought he saw a sucker?

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