ASA GTA car set up info
04-22-2014, 10:24 AM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
ASA GTA car set up info
There seems to be quite a few on this forum that have gone racing in ex
ASA National Tour Stock Cars that are powered by the Lingenfelter LS1.
We have been racing these types since 2005 so I thought I would advise of where we start out (baseline) set up.
Remember: YRMV Your results may vary
Our typical starting point baseline set up for LS1 ASA cars
camber: front about -2 static, but take tire temps to fine tune
rear: have used straight up to -1.5 with no discernible diff
if you have a unconverted car it may have positive camber on the left. It is possible to flip/axle. Likely afterwards will have about -1.5. The right side will likely be about -1.5 as it came.
caster: 4
spindles: 5 degree inclination type we feel are best, often on ex ASA cars you will see 7 degree or other and you can make these work. Some un converted cars will a 7 degree on one side and a 10 on the other...not good. Change that.
sway bar front 1 3/8" splined nascar type Some unconverted cars have the type that is not splined or connected on one side and just comes up and strikes a pad. WRONG!
no rear sway bar
springs 550 front (assuming LS1)
275 rear
Iron block motors about 600/300
3rd link angle about 6-7 degrees down in front
trailing arms: flat
shocks: when we started out we used Pro shocks with a compression/rebound valving of front 5/7 rear 4/6
now we use penske's and woody @ Bemco revalves them to his specs.
We like the watts link to locate the rear end, but the full width panhard type can be made to work well.
Wheels: get rid of the 27# ASA wheels and get some Bassett Inertia Advantage 20# wheels or similar
Gear ratio's: I like 1.9 1.5 1.2 1.0 or similar, so as to use first gear in the slowest corners on the track
Service your quick change in the off season and you should be good in pretty good shape for the year (6-10 weekends)
Get a containment seat, Both Kirkey and Ultrashield make good economical containments
5.5 clutches don't last long, get the 7.25 QM or tilton
No need to twist the Lingenfelter LS1 over 6500 it ain't doing anything.
PFC 01 pads or similar, hawk DTC70, actually I think the 01 has been replaced by the 11.
At least 12.19 rotors x 1.25 in front, 11.75x1.25 in rear OK
Bosco
ASA National Tour Stock Cars that are powered by the Lingenfelter LS1.
We have been racing these types since 2005 so I thought I would advise of where we start out (baseline) set up.
Remember: YRMV Your results may vary
Our typical starting point baseline set up for LS1 ASA cars
camber: front about -2 static, but take tire temps to fine tune
rear: have used straight up to -1.5 with no discernible diff
if you have a unconverted car it may have positive camber on the left. It is possible to flip/axle. Likely afterwards will have about -1.5. The right side will likely be about -1.5 as it came.
caster: 4
spindles: 5 degree inclination type we feel are best, often on ex ASA cars you will see 7 degree or other and you can make these work. Some un converted cars will a 7 degree on one side and a 10 on the other...not good. Change that.
sway bar front 1 3/8" splined nascar type Some unconverted cars have the type that is not splined or connected on one side and just comes up and strikes a pad. WRONG!
no rear sway bar
springs 550 front (assuming LS1)
275 rear
Iron block motors about 600/300
3rd link angle about 6-7 degrees down in front
trailing arms: flat
shocks: when we started out we used Pro shocks with a compression/rebound valving of front 5/7 rear 4/6
now we use penske's and woody @ Bemco revalves them to his specs.
We like the watts link to locate the rear end, but the full width panhard type can be made to work well.
Wheels: get rid of the 27# ASA wheels and get some Bassett Inertia Advantage 20# wheels or similar
Gear ratio's: I like 1.9 1.5 1.2 1.0 or similar, so as to use first gear in the slowest corners on the track
Service your quick change in the off season and you should be good in pretty good shape for the year (6-10 weekends)
Get a containment seat, Both Kirkey and Ultrashield make good economical containments
5.5 clutches don't last long, get the 7.25 QM or tilton
No need to twist the Lingenfelter LS1 over 6500 it ain't doing anything.
PFC 01 pads or similar, hawk DTC70, actually I think the 01 has been replaced by the 11.
At least 12.19 rotors x 1.25 in front, 11.75x1.25 in rear OK
Bosco
Last edited by bosco022; 04-22-2014 at 10:41 AM.
04-22-2014, 10:39 AM
#2
Drifting
Thread Starter
Tires: The Hoosier 3035 is fast but goes away pretty quickly...about 5 laps it starts getting pretty greasy.
The 3045 as used in Trans Am 2 is almost as quick initially but hangs in much longer.
Shifters: If your shifter is worn out either the LONG or the Hurst Billett Speedway shifter are excellent. The Hurst is quite a bit cheaper.
Oil: We have used Mobil 1 5-30 without issue but now use Joe Gibbs.
Tranny and rear end lube: Mobil 1
When you go to freshen the motor, I would advise to go to a full three stage dry sump. The Moroso pan can be modified to work.
Fire system: I have added the ten pound automatic type over the fuel cell as used in Nascar. They are available from the used Nascar parts suppliers at decent prices.
The 3045 as used in Trans Am 2 is almost as quick initially but hangs in much longer.
Shifters: If your shifter is worn out either the LONG or the Hurst Billett Speedway shifter are excellent. The Hurst is quite a bit cheaper.
Oil: We have used Mobil 1 5-30 without issue but now use Joe Gibbs.
Tranny and rear end lube: Mobil 1
When you go to freshen the motor, I would advise to go to a full three stage dry sump. The Moroso pan can be modified to work.
Fire system: I have added the ten pound automatic type over the fuel cell as used in Nascar. They are available from the used Nascar parts suppliers at decent prices.
Last edited by bosco022; 04-22-2014 at 10:47 AM.
04-27-2014, 10:09 PM
#9
Heel & Toe
Member Since: Apr 2012
Location: moorestown nj
Posts: 23
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tires will last 2-3 weekends or more, brakes even longer, bought my car used, don't know how many hours are on the motor & trans, both are holding up well to 1.5 seasons of greenhorn abuse, rear diff was replaced this winter, hours unknown
with proper prep, these cars are very dependable
Andy
04-28-2014, 11:43 AM
#10
Race Director
Bosco... you know these things as well as anybody. In my repairs I came across something that the guys at Howe didn't recognize. I saw your pictures have the "tube" setup for the front sway. Mine does not. Mine has this:
The bearing was already out in this pic. I just set it back together to get a pic to Howe.
The threaded rod was straight before it met Porsche. It is essentially a big eye bolt with a bearing race in it and the bearing itself around the sway bar. I see something that looks like that style bolt from Keyser/Port City but nothing with the race in it and nothing with the correct ID. They also sell the sway bar bearings that look identical so I think I'm on the right track.
Howe said that their best guess was that somebody combined a few parts to make it. It was nothing that they had ever seen before and certainly wasn't theirs. Have you seen this setup before?
I had a buddy of mine who is a genius with a welder use the old "eye" on a new threaded rod to build a new one. It will work, but I would love to know what it actually is in case I ever need to fix it again.
The bearing was already out in this pic. I just set it back together to get a pic to Howe.
The threaded rod was straight before it met Porsche. It is essentially a big eye bolt with a bearing race in it and the bearing itself around the sway bar. I see something that looks like that style bolt from Keyser/Port City but nothing with the race in it and nothing with the correct ID. They also sell the sway bar bearings that look identical so I think I'm on the right track.
Howe said that their best guess was that somebody combined a few parts to make it. It was nothing that they had ever seen before and certainly wasn't theirs. Have you seen this setup before?
I had a buddy of mine who is a genius with a welder use the old "eye" on a new threaded rod to build a new one. It will work, but I would love to know what it actually is in case I ever need to fix it again.
Last edited by RedLS1GTO; 04-28-2014 at 11:48 AM.
04-28-2014, 01:09 PM
#12
Race Director
As reference, it is this style:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RACING-STEEL...-/370670741591
Last edited by RedLS1GTO; 04-28-2014 at 01:11 PM.
