Greg00Coupe

I have done some track time and want to do more.

I have a C7 and from the race prepare section of the manual is the following exert:

Replace existing brake fluid with a qualified high performance brake fluid from a sealed container. Brake fluid with a dry boiling point >279°C (534°F) is qualified. If high performance brake fluid is used, replace it with GM approved brake fluid before driving on public roads. If high performance brake fluid is in the vehicle and the age of the brake fluid is over a month old or unknown, replace the brake fluid before track events and competitive driving. Do not use silicone or DOT-5 brake fluids.

So I know I need to go to a good DOT4 fluid.

But do I need to change it back to DOT3 after an event?

And I would think a good DOT 4 fluid would last a season..... here in Ohio maybe 6 months.

Finally what is the best way to change out the fluid? I've seen some pumps, bulb type bleeders etc. What is the easiest gizmo to buy to make the process easier??? Have someone pump up the brakes will get old I'd think.

Thanks

Greg

Supercharged111

No need to switch back to lame-o stock fluid after the event. If you're driving hard, the fluid probably won't last a season unless it's SRF. You can gravity bleed if you're patient and can't employ someone to work the brake pedal. Or you can buy a bleeder, but without a Tech II you won't get the fluid changed out in the ABS pump. Only way to kind of get around that is to find a slick surface to lock the tires on to get the ABS pump to cycle, then run home and bleed again. If you track regularly, you can get it all with a few flushes as my ABS would flutter at every track outing on small bumps and imperfections in the road. Now with the race car I just flat spot tires, but I'm getting better about it.

froggy47

I have a lot of video on brake fluid & bleeding. Click on link below & ck them out.

rfn026

Here's an article I wrote a few years back. Some minor things have changed but the basics are all the same.

Richard Newton

SouthernSon

This will be fine until you have really aggressive pads, run full sessions and threshold brake every turn at near lap records. I even run it from time to time when I run low on the really good stuff.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...ier=33408_0_0_

Bill Dearborn

I suspect there is some lawyer's language in the Owner's Manual statement. The statement says to use a qualified high performance brake fluid that is rated above 534 degrees dry boiling point. It doesn't say anything about a DOT rated fluid. Some of the best qualified high performance brake fluids are not DOT rated. However, GM would never recommend the use of a NON-DOT brake fluid on the street since that could have broad repercussions in a law suit, etc.

Bill

parsonsj

I use the Motive Power Bleeder. I'm not so sure about the ABS pump area, but I can change all the brake fluid in an hour or less (depending on my motivational level).

I drain the master reservoir (using a syringe), replace the fluid with new, then bleed the back calipers, refill the master, bleed the front two, then fill to the recommended level, test drive, double check the level, then load the car for the track.

http://www.motiveproducts.com

Painrace

Why screw around? SRF!

Jim

Adam@Amp'dAutosport.com

Full heartedly

CASTROL SRF

‘Typical’ New Dry Boiling Point = 310°C (590°F)
‘Wet’ E.R. (Equilibrium Reflux) Boiling Point = 270°C (518°F)

The ultimate racing brake fluid

Castrol SRF Brake Fluid's unique silicon ester technology absorbs less water than conventional glycol ether fluids and prevents the fluid's high temperature performance from deteriorating. Its wet boiling point of 270°C is vastly superior to the minimum requirement of 155°C demanded by the current US DOT 4 specification. Its ability to withstand temperatures in excess of 300°C and superior resistance to the effects of absorbed water have established Castrol SRF Brake Fluid as the world's premier fluid for the hydraulic brakes used in all forms of motorsport and racing.

Rob31

In a word NO . I can boils this crap in 3 laps
Best bang for the buck is Amsoil 600 . Little better than ATE Super Blue . A click under the M brand but its half the cost .
Ive tried them all
You do not have to change back to dot 3
I do a quick bleed after every one or two track days . As needed

ZedO6

What he says

ATE Amber (was ATE Blue) is the minimum for track use. Cheap and easy to come by. I would never waste the labor to put anything less in a car that sees track duty.

RMDZidane

I see no reason not to use Castrol SRF.

rfn026

If you're boiling your brake fluid in 3 laps you better check your brake temps. You're running pretty hot.

Richard Newton

Rob31

Gee ya think Mr . Newton ???
With a decent pad and good fluid I have no problem .
I was referring to the Valvoline dot3-4 that was posted . I ran a single piston caliper on my C4 for a while . I got a good feel for what fluid is track worthy.
Amsoil 580 F dry , 380wet . BTW ,I feel too much weight is put on wet . If you track it ,it should be changed out anyway , long before it gets saturated .
If you want a fluid with better numbers you have to spend almost 50% more .
Did the same lab verify those numbers ? probably not .
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...?code=BF4SN-EA

waddisme

Here is a little chart I have kept but haven't updated in a couple of years, so pricing may be off. I haven't seen any new fluid in a couple of years:

BRAKE FLUID COMPARISON CHART
Brand Wet Boiling Point Dry Boiling Point
Ferodo 1/2L 399*F 626*F $39.99
Castrol SRF L 518°F 590°F $68.95
ProSpeed 683 1/2L 439*F 683*F $39.99 MTI
Motul RBF600 1/2L 420°F 593°F $14.95
Motul RBF660 1/2L 401*F 617*F $28.95
AP-600 1/2L 410°F 572°F $19.95
ATE-Super Blue L 392°F 536°F $15.99
Valvoline 333°F 513°F
Castrol LMA 311°F 446°F
Ford HD 290°F 550°F
Wilwood 570 284°F 570°F
PFC-Z rated 284°F 550°F
AP-550 284°F 550°F
PFC 660 1/2L 383°F 617°F $39.95

c4cruiser

FWIW, ATE Super Blue is no longer available because the gubbmint in all their wisdom has decided that the blue color is not good for a brake fluid color ATE TYP200 is the same fluid with the same properties as the Super Blue, just a light golden color.

I have used both ATE fluids in my '87 as it's easy to see when the old fluid is out because of that color change. My '87 is not that fast and the local tracks aren't terribly hard on brakes. I have never boiled the ATE fluid; the car has C5 front calipers and stock C4 rear calipers.

I also use Speed Bleeders to do caliper bleeding/flushing. It's a one-person operation and I can easily bleed all 4 calipers by myself in about 15 minutes. A full flush takes longer but still it's an easy DIY operation.

The Motive bleeder is a good system, but it's best to just use it for pressurizing the M/C reservoir. The procedure that parsonsj mentions is a good way to do a fluid flush with the Motive unit.

Bleeding the ABS part of the system may take a scan tool to do if the ABS pump has to be energized to run fluid thru it.

0Todd TCE

BRAKE FLUID FOR DUMMIES

SouthernSon

In a word - BS. 3500 pounds with R6's, 440rwhp and DTC 70's. Works just fine. I use the amsoil, I use the ate blue and amber, I use motul and most everything else that has been out there. The dot 4 works fine until you really push it for several sessions. I don't use it in the endurance races but for use as stated by OP, no problem.

jaa1992

For HPDE as your learning - can't beat the price and availability!
In my TT car I've had it start to boil after 15 min - but only at Road Atl
Everywhere else - no problems.

SRF is the don't ever worry about replacing for a season.

Rob31

No B. S. Chief , A few laps at 10/10s and I can cook the fluid, same with the ATE, just takes longer .(on a over the counter pad ) Even with Hawk Blues I can cook ATE on a long run if I get greedy .
I would not recommend a marginal fluid to someone new to the sport .May 3rd I saw four people who were new and had a brake issue . C5 ,911 , two Mustangs ...
People learning there cars and the track use more brake than they need .
Cars on street tires need more brake than a guy on R comps .
Blackhawk Farms is a stop and go track compared to Putnam .
The right pad is just as important as the fluid .
My 2 cents