blueekb

I blew my LS6 with 80,000 miles at VIR a few weeks back. Bounced off rev limiter coming out of oak tree and it just shut off and puked most of its oil and coolant out the bottom. I have not pulled it apart yet but i'm thinking cracked block for sure. When I crank it more fluid pours out every time.

I think I found a new crate LS6 for $5500. Too much if its even real?

Or get a semi built long block from Texas Speed or Golen Race Engines for what looks like $6500+?

I know its cheaper to just get an LS1 short block and maybe reuse my heads. I might send my heads out if I go built long block route. But honestly i'm growing some major ***** and imtimidated just thinking about replacing the motor. I don't want to tackle actual engine building on top of that. Biggest job i've done so far is replacing my hubs so this is pushing some boundaries as is.

Any input is appreciated.

I forgot to add that I run NASA TT3. So i'm looking for stock HP numbers. I would like some more torque if I can get it. So yes stock LS1 LS6 numbers is what i'm after with at least as reliable as what I had. I would prefer not to dry sump right now due to extra cost.

Supercharged111

Why not LS2 bottom end? It'll breathe like the LS6 did and have all the updates.

andy3101

Depends on what your objective is and goal? Do you have a dry sump? Accusump? or stock oiling? What kind of horsepower you looking to achieve? Track only car, or street with the occasional track day? LS2 block you will have to get conversion parts to get it all working properly I believe. (ls1/6 computer, wire connections, etc.)

Stock LS3 conversion is popular also in the C5's but again will need conversion parts/pieces.

Best of luck, been down the same path you are on.

Supercharged111

Sounds like he's after a stock replacement that isn't inferior to what he had. Can't you just stick the LS6 reluctor and timing cover on the LS2 bottom end and call it a day?

andy3101

Sure, but oil issues on track got worse as the LS motor was developed. Why a dry sump is needed. So tracking an LS2 might create more problems than it resolves. The LS1/6 is the only motor you can track without a dry sump, but if you put sticky tires on, increase cornering ability, the LS6 will be a ticking time bomb.

Supercharged111

I was speaking strictly from a get it running standpoint as you'd mentioned conversion bits. I thought that the LS6 bits would transfer right over to the LS2 to prevent that. We've got some LS6s here on DOT R compounds that have been running for a few years and haven't given up the ghost. Most are TT though, I bet hard racing is a totally different ballgame. I know it is for the driver!

Last C5

Almost, you need an LS2 front cover and LS3/7 valley cover.
The knock sensors get moved to the block and the cam sensor moves to the front so you need adapter wiring for both those.

FASTFATBOY

Act fast, $4200

http://ls1tech.com/forums/parts-clas...-05-cts-v.html

I would take that engine, put Katech rod bolts and timing chain in it....put it in the car.

blueekb

I sent him a PM thankyou.

It won't let me post on that forum though so lets hope he gets it. 50 post minimum for classifieds...

FASTFATBOY

PM me your email and contact info, I will forward it

FASTFATBOY

Another one popped up.

http://ls1tech.com/forums/parts-clas...lock-sale.html

sperkins

Pretty sure that was a blower car.

stevensa

I'm in basically the exact same boat. Had a lifter come apart in my LS6 and make a mess of the block and rotating assembly. It looks like marbles were thrown in there at 7000rpm (still runs nicely on 7 cylinders though).

I too am considering a stock ls6 or ls1, maybe building a used lc9, or a TSP short block with my current heads. Only need about 370whp as well.

blueekb

I saw this one on these forums and I think he said he did have a blower on it.

blueekb

Is TSP Texas Speed? I called them last week. I asked for a quote from them if I shipped them my heads. They took my e-mail but I never recieved a message. They also told me they were about to move so most engine builds would take about 2 months to complete.

FASTFATBOY

Do what I did for my Camaro.

I built the LS1 bottom end with stock rods with ARP bolts, Mahle forged pistons, stock crank, Katech timing chain, stock Melling oil pump, LS2 lifter buckets(drilled) and balanced it.

I bought the entire top end off a 2002 Z06 with PAC 1518 valve springs, which you already have.

It makes 385 to the wheels, has 25,000 miles....who knows how many track days with no oil cooler and still runs strong.

I have about $4200 in it IIRC, I assembled and installed it.

Or just buy a reman LS1 short block and put your top end on it.

FASTFATBOY

This is a pretty good looking deal here.

Forged rods/pistons...nice stuff for $3695.

http://www.lingenfelter.com/mm5/merc...9#.U53-nLHw-0w