froggy47

Please be specific in the process if I need to take a pry tool or other to check for play while on the car in between events.

Thanks!

ScaryFast

Ball Joint Inspection



- Tools Required

•J 8001 Dial Indicator
Important:

•The vehicle must rest on a level surface.
•The vehicle must be stable. Do not rock the vehicle on the jack stands.
•The upper control arm bumper must not contact the frame.
1.Raise and support the vehicle with safety stands. Refer to Vehicle Lifting.
2.Support the lower control arm with a jack stand, as far outboard as possible, near the lower bail joint.
Important: If a seal is cut or torn, replace the ball joint.
3.Wipe the ball joints clean. Check the seals for cuts or tears.
4.Check the wheel bearings for looseness. If looseness in the wheel bearings is present, refer to Wheel Bearings Diagnosis.
5.Check the ball joints for horizontal looseness.
5.1. Position the J 8001 dial indicator against the lowest outboard point on the wheel rim.
5.2. Rock the wheel in and out while reading the dial indicator. This shows horizontal looseness in both joints.
5.3. The dial indicator reading should be no more than 3.18 mm (0.125 inch) . If the reading is too high, check the lower ball joints for vertical looseness.

6.Check the lower ball joints for wear and for vertical looseness using the following procedure:
6.1. Inspect by sight the lower ball joint for wear. The position of the housing into which the grease fitting is threaded indicates wear. This round housing projects 1.27 mm (0.050 inch) beyond the surface of the lower ball joint cover on a new ball joint. Under normal wear, the surface of the lower ball joint housing retreats inward very slowly.
6.2. First observe, then scrape a scale, a screwdriver, or a fingernail across the cover. If the round housing is flush with or inside of the cover surface, replace the lower control arm.
7.Place a J 8001 dial indicator (1) against the spindle in order to show vertical movement.
8.Pry between the lower control arm (2) and the outer bearing race (1) while reading the dial indicator. This shows vertical looseness in the ball joints. The lower ball joint is not preloaded and may show some looseness.
9.If the dial indicator reading is more than 3.18 mm (0.125 inch) , replace the lower control arm.
10.If the lower ball joint is within specifications, and there is too much horizontal looseness, check the upper ball joint for wear.
10.1. Disconnect the upper ball joint from the steering knuckle.
10.2. If you find any looseness or can twist the stud with your fingers, replace the upper ball joint.

ScaryFast

Of course, as per step 6 we should have a grease fitting on the bottom and C5 ball joints don't. But I assume the procedure shoudl be the same.

flink

That's what I use on the BMW. aka "large screwdriver". Find a way to use it to apply lateral force to the balljoint and apply that force while pressing fingertips hard into the joint itself to feel any relative movement. Do that four times per balljoint, 90 degrees apart.

Bill Dearborn

One thing that can't be detected is an imminent structural failure of the ball itself. Was at a track event where an instructor's early 90s Mustang suddenly broke loose going around the Carousel turn at the Glen and hit the guard rail while at a very high speed. Once the car got towed back to the paddock it was quickly evident the left lower ball joint had failed due to a crack that finally propogated all the way through the ball causing everything to come apart.

Bill

naschmitz

Is there a preventative maintenance schedule for just replacing all the ball joints on a tracked car? It would be a pain to transfer my delrin bushings to the new LCAs, but it could be done.

froggy47

Thanks all, any more?

parsonsj

I replaced my hubs about 3 weeks ago with SKF units, and all the lower balljoints seemed "floppy": no measurable play, but were easily moved with just a touch of my finger.

Is this normal?

RX-Ben

Yes, for well-used ones. Might consider replacement, but I'm not sure when that floppy-ness develops. Any play and they should be replaced.

05C6GAC

Is there a sticky out there for the ball joint replacement procedure, not to hijack this thread???

froggy47

Do the ball joints tyically outlast the hubs? No, 1.5x, 2x?

flink

Damn, I never thought of using a dial indicator.

I torqued down all the brake rotors, attached the magnetic dial indicator onto a jackstand pressing against the rotor face and measured wheel bearing play on all four as well as play on a couple of control arm balljoints.

Then I wrote it all down. So next time I do it I can see what's deteriorating and by how much.

Thanks!

ScaryFast

I couldn't find a lower ball joint replacement procedure, but it probably reads a lot like the upper, which basically says "remove the ball joint" and "install a new ball joint".

I assume if you have these "required" tools it's self explanatory

- Tools Required

•J 9519-E Ball Joint Remover Kit
•J 28685 Upper Ball Joint Installer
•J 21474-5 Upper Ball Joint Remover

froggy47

Yeah, I'm so glad I bought the factory service manuals.

ErnieN85

Chevy says no replacement for ball joints, do the hole arm or spindle. That is why there is no procedure listed

now as to how to do it press out the old one, put the new one in the freezer. when it is cold. heat the arm and drop in the new one

froggy47

Heat & cold worked GREAT when I put my balancer on (just the heat part for that one).

hungryhippo

So how long do ball joints typically last? My front uppers are creaking pretty bad when loading and unloading the suspension. They are only 5k miles old and have no play, are they still use able?

RX-Ben

The uppers do not see much load. Are you sure they are creaking? I am not even sure how a ball joint could creak.

Bill Dearborn

Back in the old days when we had to grease them every 3K miles you could tell if they needed grease by the creaking sound they made.

Bill