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Question about JOC rear swaybar positioning and oversteer

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Old 06-23-2014, 10:46 PM
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Chris Edwards
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Default Question about JOC rear swaybar positioning and oversteer

Hey all, so I just scaled the car over the weekend, car came in at 3320 with me and a half tank in it (I weight 185lbs). Full weight Z06 with harness bar, race seat, and 6 point harness.

I took the car to the alignment shop today and had them align it per Pfadt's aggressive street/ track recommendations.

I currently have the rear bar set to the outermost position (least stiff) but the endlinks are as short as possible.

If I lengthen the endlinks, will that soften up the rear bar even more?

Car handles beautifully., but I'm trying to tune out as much oversteer as possible, and neutralize the car a bit.
Old 06-24-2014, 12:30 AM
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froggy47
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Originally Posted by lxcoupe
Hey all, so I just scaled the car over the weekend, car came in at 3320 with me and a half tank in it (I weight 185lbs). Full weight Z06 with harness bar, race seat, and 6 point harness.

I took the car to the alignment shop today and had them align it per Pfadt's aggressive street/ track recommendations.

I currently have the rear bar set to the outermost position (least stiff) but the endlinks are as short as possible.

If I lengthen the endlinks, will that soften up the rear bar even more?

Car handles beautifully., but I'm trying to tune out as much oversteer as possible, and neutralize the car a bit.
Try a stock z06 bar.

Sway bars are like golf clubs, everyone should have many of them (even adjustables). As the rest of the car (and driver) evolves change as needed. I have seen some solo champs on a practice day try 3 different rear bars.

Lengthen the link might give you a teeny tiny change (in theory anyway).

Oversteer is good, control it with right foot.

Last edited by froggy47; 06-24-2014 at 12:36 AM.
Old 06-24-2014, 12:44 AM
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Chris Edwards
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Originally Posted by froggy47
Try a stock z06 bar. Sway bars are like golf clubs, everyone should have many of them (even adjustables). As the rest of the car (and driver) evolves change as needed. I have seen some solo champs on a practice day try 3 different rear bars. Lengthen the link might give you a teeny tiny change (in theory anyway). Oversteer is good, control it with right foot.
Froggy, I sold my stock swaybars lol. Would you think 2001 or 2002-2004 rear bar?
Old 06-24-2014, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by lxcoupe
Froggy, I sold my stock swaybars lol. Would you think 2001 or 2002-2004 rear bar?
AFAIK they are the same.
Old 06-25-2014, 08:26 AM
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I'm with Froggy. It's always good to have extra swaybars to balance the car. If you want more overall roll stiffness, balance the car with a little stiffer front bar. If you want less, get a lighter rate rear bar. It's nice balancing with a rear bar since it's an easier swap of course.
Old 06-25-2014, 09:08 AM
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I have my rear JOC bar set in the middle. 275/40/17 Front, 295/35/18 rear nitto nt-05s. Very neutral handling, trace of under steer at mid-corner. Easy to modulate with throttle. Very confidence-inspiring. I recommend the same.
Old 06-29-2014, 06:26 PM
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JeremyGSU
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I have my JOC bar set in the middle.
Old 06-30-2014, 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by lxcoupe
I currently have the rear bar set to the outermost position (least stiff) but the endlinks are as short as possible.
Are you sure you have no preload in your bar?
What shocks are you using?
What is your rear toe setting?
Old 06-30-2014, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by lefrog
Are you sure you have no preload in your bar?
What shocks are you using?
What is your rear toe setting?
Yes I am positive I have no preload. Endlinks were adjusted with the car weighted (on wooden ramps), the suspension was never unloaded during the scaling process. All endlink bolts slipped through by hand and the bearings themselves were parallel to the control arms/ swaybar mating surfaces.

Shocks are JOC.

Rear toe setting is 1/8" toe-in.

I would not consider the oversteer to be excessive or abnormal, and I do have something that is complicating the tuning of the suspension; mismatched tires front and rear. I was just curious about whether or not having the endlinks adjusted longer would allow even more adjustability, or if endlink length was irrelevant.
Old 06-30-2014, 04:57 PM
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froggy47
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Originally Posted by lxcoupe
Yes I am positive I have no preload. Endlinks were adjusted with the car weighted (on wooden ramps), the suspension was never unloaded during the scaling process. All endlink bolts slipped through by hand and the bearings themselves were parallel to the control arms/ swaybar mating surfaces.

Shocks are JOC.

Rear toe setting is 1/8" toe-in.

I would not consider the oversteer to be excessive or abnormal, and I do have something that is complicating the tuning of the suspension; mismatched tires front and rear. I was just curious about whether or not having the endlinks adjusted longer would allow even more adjustability, or if endlink length was irrelevant.
In my experience I just use the endlinks to adjust the movement range of the bar so it doesn't hit anything as it moves around.
Old 06-30-2014, 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by froggy47
In my experience I just use the endlinks to adjust the movement range of the bar so it doesn't hit anything as it moves around.
Personally, I initially set my adjustable end links to be the same length as the OE units, then made the small adjustment to one side and eliminated preload. I found very little adjustment needed from OE length.
Old 06-30-2014, 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by lxcoupe
I was just curious about whether or not having the endlinks adjusted longer would allow even more adjustability, or if endlink length was irrelevant.
Endlink length is irrelevant for adjusting the bar stiffness. You just pick one length on one side and adjust the other side to make sure you have no preload.
It is the hooking point of the endlink on the bar that defines the stiffness.
Old 07-01-2014, 12:28 AM
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froggy47
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Originally Posted by HabberstadChris
Personally, I initially set my adjustable end links to be the same length as the OE units, then made the small adjustment to one side and eliminated preload. I found very little adjustment needed from OE length.
Old 07-01-2014, 12:28 AM
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Originally Posted by lefrog
Endlink length is irrelevant for adjusting the bar stiffness. You just pick one length on one side and adjust the other side to make sure you have no preload.
It is the hooking point of the endlink on the bar that defines the stiffness.

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