RDnomorecobra

Went out 1st session. Did maybe 5-7 laps - North course - and it started cutting out under load at about 5k RPM in 3rd gear. Almost felt the same as hitting the rev limiter. Brought it in and noticed that the belt walked 2-3 ribs off of the tensioner. I put a wrench on the tensioner and put the belt back in place. Also noticed power steering pump pulley was not exactly flush with the shaft. The pulley is pressed on about 1/16" too far. I am told is should be flush. Maybe misalignment contributed to belt moving?

Regarding the engine cutting out, I checked the volts on the DIC and checked the spark plug boots etc as per a phone call to Joe @ Pheonix. When I started the car up it read 13.8, ran the rpm's up and down and it stayed about the same. Spark plug boots seemed secure to me.

I put a bottle of Techron in the tank and took it out later in the day. Took it a bit easier but still did notice it cutting out. Was about to just do a cool down lap and come in when I noticed the steering get real heavy, almost felt like a flat tire. Or maybe it was related to the power steering pump or fluid or something. Tires were fine. Last year at NJMP Lightning I had a similar steering issue, but not so pronounced as yesterday. I had a good crack in one rotor though, so I changed the fronts and brake pads and it seemed to go away. Maybe it really was the power steering and I just gave it time to cool down so didn't notice it again. Also coming back in to the paddock yesterday I did notice the volts fluctuate down as far as 12.2. It was about 80 degrees and sunny up there yesterday.

So not sure what to make of all that. Not sure the steering and belt issue would be related to the car cutting out like that.

What does everyone do with power steering pump/fluid on track cars? Is a cooler recommended?

One other thing, I was at NJMP May 16/17th and didn't notice any of these issues. Was much cooler out though, maybe 65.

sleeperstyle

for the cutting out- you need to datalog the car and see what is going on. i have hptuners and i think it is pretty easy to use, but if you have a tuner maybe let them handle it.

the belt issue, could be a weak tensioner. was the ps pump ever messed with or replaced?

HTH

Wickster

We had an alt almost seize on us once, you might look at that.

Mark2009

Tough to troubleshoot several issues at once, so one by one:

1. Engine cutting out. First I ask if the engine is stock, including the tune. If not, the mods are the second place I'd look -- first would be any stored codes, like misfires. If not, then as said you'd need to datalog the car and look for clues there.

2. Serpentine belt. Offhand I'd think the PS pulley should be in line with the others, so that would be the prime goal rather than how far it is pressed on the shaft. If the pulley is not in line with the others then that is the likely source of the belt trying to go elsewhere on you (if the pulleys are misaligned I'd be surprised if it doesn't do it again).

3. PS fluid cooling. Based on one particular experience, I think if you overheat the PS fluid then the pump will groan at low speeds (maneuvering in the pits/paddock). If your pulley is misaligned that could be another source of heat. I suppose you could have cooked the fluid (boiled) and lost power assist on the track but I'd think the pump would have made some noise when turning (think =/= sure).

4. Alternator. 12.2 with the engine running is no good. Before you replace anything pull the starter and check the wiring, depending on yours is wired (on the LS7 the starter connection is a major wire junction which tends to burn up and cause all kinds of problems that looks like a bad alternator or bad battery). Could also simply be an old battery. Or a bad alternator. But trace out the wiring all the way from the battery to the alternator first.

RDnomorecobra

Thanks. Car is a '03z06. Stock engine internals. Does have a ECS mail order tune. Battery is a Optima red top, maybe 2 years old. Should be in good shape as it is always kept on a Battery minder AGM charger.

Mark2009

I would think the C5 Z06 had a PS cooler, but I really have no idea (I would have thought they had an oil cooler, but apparently not).

I'd have the battery checked just to be on the safe side... assume nothing when things are going awry. Should be free at any chain auto parts store. If the battery is up front then the wiring may be less likely to be an issue, but I'd check to be sure (over the years Corvette batteries have been located in so many various places I can no longer keep track... trunk, behind seat, deep down in front fenderwell... )

I saw a prepped NASA C5 Z06 today, it looked pretty quick (custom dry sump but stock engine the owner said). Full cage, quick release steering wheel, not a street car. I should have mooched a ride around the track but I probably would have been scared
.

C5ZEE06

On the engine cutting out...try cleaning your maf. Appears I overfilled the crankcase at the track and oiled down the intake and maf. Bought a can of the CRC maf clearer and cleaned up the maf and alls well. Worth a try anyway.

On the ps issue...after replacing a couple of racks, I installed a BIG *** ps cooler (15,000 btu transmission cooler ) and haven't lost a rack since.
.
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argonaut

Any codes? I had similar issue that turned out to be a broken wire in the connector at the MAF. Diagnosed via a code on the DIC.

RDnomorecobra

Will check the MAF. I do have a catch can and there's hardly anything in it as per usual.

codes...only one current

10-PCM-nothing
28-TCS-U1016H
40-BCM-nothing
58-SDM-U1000H
U1016H
U1096H
60-IPC-U1016H
99-HVAC-B0361H C- left actuator feedback short to GND
A0-LDCM-B2282H
B2284H
U1255H
U1064H
U1016H
U1096H
A1-RDCM-B2283H
B2285H
B2265H
U1255H
U1064H
U1016H
U1096H
B0-RFA-U1096H
U1016H

RDnomorecobra

Car is at Phoenix. Talked to them today and it seems the crank pulley bolt had loosened and as the balancer started wobbling it wore a bit off the crank and that may need replacing. Also probably explains the squeal I started hearing earlier. Speculation is that it was not driving the belt sufficiently resulting in low voltage hence the cutting out. PS pump is leaking explaining the steering issues. So, lots of pain to be incurred shortly ... may be done for the season depending on just how much pain.

TheKomoman

Check out the Turn One pump. They have a design that helps keep things cooler, which will extend the life of your rack as well. More money for the pump but should save in the long run. They drop shipped one to Phoenix for me last year, no problem.

RDnomorecobra

Yea will likely do that.

Dr.Ron

That stinks Ray!! Hope you get her buttoned back up quickly and as painlessly as possible!!
I'm Running Thunderbolt 8/14, weather permitting as always....18" wheels and Conti GTR's on the way to me!

Ron

Bill Dearborn

I have seen others do this with the same results. Seems to be a more cost effective solution than the Turn 1 pump.

Bill