C6 Z06 Max Camber settings?
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
C6 Z06 Max Camber settings?
I'm running R6 tires on C6 Z06 with front camber setting of -2 and rear camber setting of -1.75. I'm seeing excessive amount of outside tire wear. I also still have stock control arm bushings. Front toe is 0 and rear toe-in is 1/8(0.33).
What is the max that you have ran the camber settings without going too far or having bad adverse effects?
I was thinking of pushing the front closer to -3 and rear to -2.25. I ran that camber on my M3 with success but obviously the Z06 is a completely different car. I'm not an alignment/track expert so am hoping you might have some advice?
What is the max that you have ran the camber settings without going too far or having bad adverse effects?
I was thinking of pushing the front closer to -3 and rear to -2.25. I ran that camber on my M3 with success but obviously the Z06 is a completely different car. I'm not an alignment/track expert so am hoping you might have some advice?
#3
Drifting
-3 front camber, -2 rear camber, 1/16 toe out front, 1/16 toe in rear.
You need to upgrade the control arm bushings, The stock bushings with slicks have a lot of deflection, as much as 1 to 2 degrees depending on condition.
Hoosiers like at least -3 degrees in the front on a C6 to even out the wear.
The correct way to do suspension setup is with a tire pyrometer.
http://949racing.com/using-a-tire-py...49-Racing.aspx
You need to upgrade the control arm bushings, The stock bushings with slicks have a lot of deflection, as much as 1 to 2 degrees depending on condition.
Hoosiers like at least -3 degrees in the front on a C6 to even out the wear.
The correct way to do suspension setup is with a tire pyrometer.
http://949racing.com/using-a-tire-py...49-Racing.aspx
#4
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Not sure you need all that much camber in the rear. The Z06 can provide a lot but I have great tire wear across my rear tires when the rear camber is sitting at -1.5. I have been running Conti Slicks and R888s with those rear settings and they seem to work with both types of tires.
Bill
Bill
#5
Drifting
I agree, with the others, I am running 2.4 in the front and 1.5 in the rear and have fine wear characteristics very even. My guess is you might consider upgrading the bushings to prevent deflection or maybe something is bent or off in the suspension.
I am running a monoball suspension setup with Coilovers and sways
I am running a monoball suspension setup with Coilovers and sways
Last edited by morris; 07-02-2014 at 09:38 AM.
#6
Burning Brakes
I ran -3 front, -2 rear, 1/16th toe out front, 1/4" toe in rear and got really even wear on a set of A6's at Road Atlanta. You could tell I was running excessive toe in on the rear but it was nothing to get worked up about or enough to bother changing it. Like others have stated, LOTS of deflection in stock bushings and that's why I had such aggressive settings. I've moved on to sphericals now.
#7
Drifting
-3 front camber, -2 rear camber, 1/16 toe out front, 1/16 toe in rear.
You need to upgrade the control arm bushings, The stock bushings with slicks have a lot of deflection, as much as 1 to 2 degrees depending on condition.
Hoosiers like at least -3 degrees in the front on a C6 to even out the wear.
The correct way to do suspension setup is with a tire pyrometer.
http://949racing.com/using-a-tire-py...49-Racing.aspx
You need to upgrade the control arm bushings, The stock bushings with slicks have a lot of deflection, as much as 1 to 2 degrees depending on condition.
Hoosiers like at least -3 degrees in the front on a C6 to even out the wear.
The correct way to do suspension setup is with a tire pyrometer.
http://949racing.com/using-a-tire-py...49-Racing.aspx
That is a great link.