Feeling Blue
#1
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Feeling Blue
I get the general impression that less trail braking is in order, but the fronts look the same (in fact they got there first; the rears got there when I began picking up the pace). Is this an issue for the rotors? (they are stock GM):
#3
Melting Slicks
I don't see any issue here. They look perfectly normal.
When you really start picking up the pace these will look as blue as cheap Chinese headers, and then they'll be cracked, and ready to replace.
When you do replace them don't waste your time with OEM rotors like I did. My last set lasted exactly 3.5 track days. Get a set of Stoptech, or similar, slotted rotors. NOT DRILLED, slotted only.
Good luck, safe driving.
When you really start picking up the pace these will look as blue as cheap Chinese headers, and then they'll be cracked, and ready to replace.
When you do replace them don't waste your time with OEM rotors like I did. My last set lasted exactly 3.5 track days. Get a set of Stoptech, or similar, slotted rotors. NOT DRILLED, slotted only.
Good luck, safe driving.
#4
Safety Car
Thread Starter
fm, it's a UK pad called EBC Yellowstuff. Kind of a middling track pad deal, not too expensive so I thot I'd give them and the stock rotors a try before jumping into the deep end of the money pool (Carbotech, etc). They did okay, even though I cooked them a li'l bit and picked up some fade at one point (was my error). On the bright side the Motul 600 fluid tolerated the temp well so no soft pedal.
jb, that's kinda what I thot. Thanks for the input. I think I can be a little more effective with the brakes next time out; braking later and harder seemed to control the heat better, altho there was some confusion about the cone layout the first couple sessions (I thot the turn in cones were brake point cones ) (track was new to me).
jb, that's kinda what I thot. Thanks for the input. I think I can be a little more effective with the brakes next time out; braking later and harder seemed to control the heat better, altho there was some confusion about the cone layout the first couple sessions (I thot the turn in cones were brake point cones ) (track was new to me).
#5
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Oct 1999
Location: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
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Stock rotors last me about 5 track days with race pads. At less than $100 delivered to the door from GM Parts House they are about the best value you can get for C6 Z06/GS rotors.
Bill
Bill
#6
Le Mans Master
I have been real happy with my Hawk pads. Consider getting something more aggressive from Hawk, even if you put them in just for the track days.
Additionally, the guys at KNS brakes have those really cool two piece rotors if you are looking for OEM size on the front. The best part is they last a really really long time. In my opinion they are once slightly better value than the OEM because the KNS rotors last so long and it is nice not having to worry about them cracking while at the track. I beat the crap out of those racing my C5 when I was required to run 325mm rotors.
And then there is the full race grade stuff from AP. The new 355mm endurance rotor I am running on the front is mind-boggling how well those are holding up on tracks like ACS, BRP, Thunderhill and Laguna Seca.
Additionally, the guys at KNS brakes have those really cool two piece rotors if you are looking for OEM size on the front. The best part is they last a really really long time. In my opinion they are once slightly better value than the OEM because the KNS rotors last so long and it is nice not having to worry about them cracking while at the track. I beat the crap out of those racing my C5 when I was required to run 325mm rotors.
And then there is the full race grade stuff from AP. The new 355mm endurance rotor I am running on the front is mind-boggling how well those are holding up on tracks like ACS, BRP, Thunderhill and Laguna Seca.