Apocolipse

Hey

Looking at going with a Wilwood 3 pedal floor mount assembly and Tilton m/c's. Anyone have experience with these? Does the balance bar work well? Will be nice to get rid of the brake booster.

http://www.wilwood.com/Pedals/PedalP...emno=340-12411

Opinions welcome!

0Todd TCE

Nothing wrong with moving to twin mc set ups, so long as you know what you're getting in to.....

Floor mounts are the easiest compared to hanging for sure. But consider you'll need to have room for both the pedal box and the masters also. Then there's the entire replumbing of the hydraulic system. You'll need hardline and a variety of fittings as well as flaring tools and such. The floor mount will require a substantial mating plate under it to secure the box as most floor steel is way too thin. And usually wrinkled due to the stampings- maybe two plates needed. Using the compact remotes will give you the least amount of mc up against the front firewall. Unless you're short you may need to hammer some dents into that or cut and fab some flares around this area also. (not sure what may be sheet steel here vs glass)

The one you show included a throttle also. A good idea. And then you will need to fab/alter the cable assembly from the throttle body to work and have a good safe return spring. You can do a twin and use the stock throttle pedal also, but know that your heel/toe will need to be set correctly meaning an alteration to the throttle pedal or raising the entire pedal box up off the floor 2" could be necessary. Leaving an elevated floor for you heels also.

And of course you'll need a place on the firewall, or inside, to mount and get at those remote reservoirs. Brackets, clamps, fancy billet holders there are options. Or you do one large one with three feeds off of it at various levels for safety reasons. (the front feed being the lowest point)

The next thing is choosing the proper bores for the cylinders. I' have a great TWIN MC and BIAS page that will help. Ultimately tho some of the comes down to driver choice- just how hard you want to push to make things the way you like them. There are no 'magic' bore sizes only a good split size relative to the caliper piston areas.

The bias bar works very well, personally I'd remove any prop valve using one as well. I don't personally like both used. But for a street car it's not so much of a bad thing, track I'd prefer manual adjustment only.

Not sure how much of that will help or hurt you. Aide or deter you, but understand that its no plun-n-play modification. Most race cars put them in but have much easier ways of securing and getting to them. If you opt to do it let me know and I'll get you a quote on that part.

Apocolipse

Hey Todd,

Thank you for the great post, I really appreciate all the pointers you gave.

I chose floor mount due to the fact of simplicity for install - as you have pointed out. The typical floor on the vette is much too weak to handle the loads generated by the moment force of the pedals, I will more than likely be replacing the entire balsa wood / composite floors with sheet metal. Thinking about 16 or 18ga welded in place instead of the composite floor. Yes this will add mass to the car but the floors are extremely low and will not be that great of a weight penalty. This steel floor "may" also act as a shear panel and "possibly" stiffen the car in torsional rigidity. This will give me a proper base to bolt the pedal assembly to and not worry about flex. It is also a small sq ft area so I should be able to avoid "oil canning" of the sheet metal. I may possibly have to increase gauge at the pedals... but we will see.

As for the room, I am pretty sure that the panel in the footwell is hollow and goes into the frame section leaving quite a bit of room inside there. I SHOULD be able to box something to keep it sealed from the elements...have you cut that panel before?

Lines are easy and I have all the flare tools necessary for proper install.

I wont be using the stock pedal in this assembly. I do not want to have to worry about height issues with the new pedals, may as well do it all in one shot, much easier and cleaner. I want to keep the fluids in the engine bay just to keep things cleaner inside the cabin.

As for pedal feel, I hate high assist pedals and I also do not want to need to leg press 200lbs each time I need to stop. I am not a small guy, 6'2 210, so I can use that strength to my advantage. The only issue I am going to have is positioning the pedals so I have a comfortable position. I am going with fixed seats and not putting them on sliders and I am worried I will be too crouched... Have you had to deal with something like this before?

I was thinking to just bolt the seats using side mounts, and those would then bolt to plates fixed on the floor. I am thinking I am going to need to raise the seat mounts up since it will be as if I was sitting directly on the floor...

Anyhow, too many points in one post, I should stop now lol

0Todd TCE

Wish I could offer more but I'm NOT a Corvette expert. Arguably somewhat of a brake expert...so my input is strictly from that angle. I hope it goes well for you!

andy3101

Todd is a great resource. You may want to call a couple shops that have run world challenge corvette cars. I.E. David farmer or Blackdog speed shop. There are others on the forum that are active and don't mean to leave any of the shops out of the post. but David is very active here on forum and I and several forum members have used Blackdog for our race cars.