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Thanks for the great service last week Todd. Car ran great at Inde. Got second overall on Sunday and first in class, was able to out brake just about every car with no abs. Thanks again!
That's great! Hope you had a safe and enjoyable outing.
Effective August 1st: All Wilwood factory and TCE/Wilwood kit sold with the W6A and W4A calipers will now be shipped with the new Aero6 and Aero4 models.
The Aero series represents an extension of the proven and popular W series and builds upon that success.
What makes the Aero series stand out?
1. A slightly larger body and anulus designed to accommodate up to 15" diameter discs. 2. A build in bridge reinforcement addressing those who had concerns about body flex. 3. An internal crossover, removing unsightly and potentially damaged external pipes. 4. Single fit bleeder fittings for ease of service and less visual streaking of the outer shell. 5. The availability of a base black anodized caliper for those with track use applications where powder coat finishes can trap heat.
Or course these calipers are also available in standard BLACK and RED powder coat as well as QUICK SILVER finish.
And if that's not enough; all models can be fit with Wilwood's Thermlock pistons for extreme heat applications.
The Aero series uses the same 6617 pad found in the W series as well as the same mounting specs making it a direct interchange for anyone using a W6A or W4A now.
This calipers does retain the pesky clip and pin pad retention found on the W series and does now require the caliper be removed from the bracket to replace the pads. It is no longer a 'top loading' caliper. I'm certain some will find fault with that but it's part of the design trade off. Hopefully compared to other options the additional 10-20% cubic pad material will not having you service the pads as often anyhow.
TCE will be supplying this caliper on all future 'house' kits and customs that were supplied with the W series as well as continuing to stock a extensive line of pads, service parts and Titaninum heat barriers for all your needs!
Todd, what is the weight of the Aero6 and Aero4 calipers? Is the Aero4 a smaller forging or a four piston version of the Aero6 forging?
I'm researching these new AERO calipers and the GT72/Spec37 rotors to understand how they compare to other BBKs. Your price on the kits certainly looks attractive, but I'm a data guy who can't get too much information and want to put some numbers into my comparison matrix. I see you are offering a C6 Z06 BBK with the new AERO6 caliper up front and the smaller FNSL4R in the rear (kit #4X Kit 141-10226.10638-N) Does this kit work with the parking brake, and if so, is the rear hat aluminum or iron? This stuff is not always easy to get from the manufacturer's site. Also, do the nickel plate AERO6 "Race" calipers have knock back springs (AKBs), and use the 20mm pads? Based on my research so far, it looks like this kit will fit OEM C6 Z06 wheels. What other brands of pads will fit these calipers? I can't find a Cobalt pad that cross references to the 6617/6620 P/N. The caliper is supposed to accommodate up to 15inch/380mm rotors. Will a kit be offered with this size rotor?
Maybe instead of all these questions, I should just say I am interested in how a Wilwood BBK would compare to the Exxex/AP Racing Endurance BBK. It looks like this new AERO caliper with forged body, internal crossover, anodize or nickel finish, 20mm pads, and thermlock pistons should compare very will to the AP Racing CP5060 cast caliper. I'm not so sure about using a caliper the size of the AERO4 with 14.25 inch rotors on the rear, but it looks like you should be able to put something together that compares favorable to the Essex/AP Racing Rear Endurance kit. http://www.essexparts.com/essex-comp...te-bundle.html
Hmm. Cannot vouch for the data off the Wilwood page regarding the weight. But I can tell you that what I posted was without pads, on the postal scale and I'll stand by that number. Not the 7lb one.
All the street Wilwood kits use an iron hat for the parking brake drum. The 4X kit with a 10638 rear kit will be a NON parking brake race kit. The details of which can be had by clicking any of the links found in that table.
If you want a p-brake you'll have to pick from the others: 9119 or 11119 etc from the columns to the left. But..yes I'm pretty certain I can. Can what? Put the nickel set into those kits (for an added cost vs black or red) and we can talk thermlocks etc if you wish. In short I can package them in nearly any configuration you'd like. The table lists them in the most cost effective and popular fashion is all.
So yes you can have the full race kits with 20mm pads and we can combine them with a variety or rears. Know that the 20mm kit will require 2MM more wheel clearance. Why? Because to work the hat offset, bracket and caliper itself is different. Wider pads mean wider body mean more wheel clearance needed.
Confusing? Yup. I live it. There are so many ways you can slice up these kits. From street to race, to caliper options to pads to...? It's crazy. I'd have a need for two more tables if I tried to list them all as options. And still get a call for one I didn't think of! How it goes. Personally I'd look at all the kits available with the parking brake and see what you like, from there see what fronts pair with them well and we can talk pros and cons and price.
As for comparing....that's tough for any supplier. All the kits on the market have pros and cons whether others want to admit it or not.
As for the knock back springs: ten years ago they were a sure sign of a bad design, not needed and such. Today some kits tout them as the greatest thing. What's old is new again. The true need is not caliper related here its bearing related. They are not a standard feature on a Wilwood caliper and not engineered for them. But they've been done.
Floating or fixed hats? Won't argue the thermal benefits of floaters. But they wear out parts faster, been know to split aluminum hats, have high cost hardware, and rattle in time for street use. Some will say that's not all true. Not new, no. In time it's the nature of the beast. Fixed have limited expansion capabilities. Rotors and hardware are less money.
SS vs alum piston. Yeah we got that too. Deep dish forged aluminum pistons. Vented? No. But optional thermlock insulated pistons which one may argue are better yet. All in what you value. Boots? Nope don't have those either.
Personally I've seen some of the brackets that others use and I'm stunned that anyone today would ship some of the light weight parts I've seen. Often including BOLTs for caliper mounting. Insanely prone to problems by Joe Consumer. I'll take hardened studs (in fact all TCE parts are also) any day for peace of mind.
Rotors are the newer Spec37 castings. Which like any marketing jargon doesn't really mean anything. 72 curve vane design. Slots, not hooks, dimples, holes, of course. Better or worse? Depends on who's selling you on their product. If everyone sold the same design that would limit the ability to "better" claims. Each supplier has their own design is all. I'd take a 14"+ rotor over a smaller one any day. Simple efficiency of the system. Greater thermal mass.
Forged bodies, hard anodized, nickel plated...or colored. Most folks want color today. That's really the primary market of course. Nickel is nicer than ano and not a heat barrier that you get with PC. Now with internal cross overs, no tubes to be damaged (true we both know is seldom happens tho) and one fat bridge section makes for a stiff enough caliper that it's not believed to leak under high pressure.
As for the pads, I don't have any issue with the 17mm pad. But in a world of "more is better" that new 20mm pad is nice. Necessary? I don't really think it is. More so mentally than functionally. And as they wear you'd ideally want fatter wear plates now also. But 17mm with thermlocks and even Ti plates are more than ample. Comparing these to a 7420 pad even the 17s have equal or more cubic inches of block material. A slightly taller pad, while a bit less Er in the math will also result in a more balanced or spread thermal patch on the rotor than concentrating it all at the edge. Same reason most street car pads are fat. Better this way? We're in the gray area. But reality is that a bigger caliper just needs a bigger pad for it and you get one with a bigger footprint.
As said before: the comparative post is prone to opinions, argument and tempers. I've probably enraged a few thus far and I'm sure we'll get some more input.
Hope that helps some. If you want more I'd ask that you call and we can talk once you narrow down some options. *I'm out of town until mid Thursday this coming week on a Ford Teen Driving program in Canada. Or you can email me also. thx
Sorry to revive an old thread...does anyone know if the Aero 6 Race Kit (20mm pads and 14 inch rotors) will fit under the stock C5 Z06 rear wheels when run on the front? Thanks!
Sorry to revive an old thread...does anyone know if the Aero 6 Race Kit (20mm pads and 14 inch rotors) will fit under the stock C5 Z06 rear wheels when run on the front? Thanks!
I am going to venture a somewhat educated guess. I run Todd's W6A kit that works with the stock C6Z 14 inch rotors and I do not believe a 17 inch wheel will fit over the calipers. If it does it will be very close. All you have is less than an inch and a half of caliper height above the rotor to play with. Yes, we are talking 14 inches Vs 17 inches but the inside of the barrel on a 17 inch wheel is smaller than 17 inches. I have a set of LG World Challenge Z06 wheels and the barrels of the front wheels are much smaller than 18 inches and when I run them I get all sorts of scrapes on the rotors and wheels from debris that gets between the two. I know that I couldn't run the regular Wilwood 14.25 inch rotor kit since the extra 1/8 inch of radius would have the inner part of the barrel scraping the caliper or so close to it all sorts of debris would cause damage to the wheel and caliper.
Todd's diagrams on the first page of the thread show a radius (E) from the center of the hub to the edge of the caliper for a 14 inch rotor as 8 inches. The rotor has a 7 inch radius. The caliper is taking up an inch of that less than an inch and a half of space. It all depends on the wheel and the inner diameter of the barrel.
Bill
Last edited by Bill Dearborn; 04-07-2015 at 08:33 PM.
Sorry to revive an old thread...does anyone know if the Aero 6 Race Kit (20mm pads and 14 inch rotors) will fit under the stock C5 Z06 rear wheels when run on the front? Thanks!
I realize Bill already commented here...but he saw 17" C5Z wheels when you actually wrote 18" C5 Z06 wheels. To answer your questions, yes the 14" kit will fit with the C5Z 18" wheels up front HOWEVER I am not certain that the wide caliper for the 20 mm pads will clear the spokes.. Bill rarely makes mistakes and is a top source of good tech info here
Part of that info lies HERE in the pdf, see page 3 for the wheel fit info.
Comparing to THIS the older 17mm pad version page 3.
The 'new' set up has a marginal .070" additional overhang relative to the spoke clearance. That's pretty good. Probably compromises BJ or LCA clearance a bit to get it but not nearly what it could have been.
If there is ample air gap with the 17 pad kit you'll only need 1/16" more. Nice.
Old thread but same topic. I'm installing the 140-11119 (rear) and 140-10163 (front) kits on an SRIII frame (going under a C3) with C6 front suspension and C5 rear suspension. The kits look great and very well made (bought from TCE - thanks). The front fit's perfectly.
However the rear rotors are contacting the lower control arms:
The interference is about .04" so I know the easy way out is to grind the control arms. Just wondering if anyone else has had this issue or can confirm the C5 and C6 rear knuckles differ by about 1/8"?
Old thread but same topic. I'm installing the 140-11119 (rear) and 140-10163 (front) kits on an SRIII frame (going under a C3) with C6 front suspension and C5 rear suspension. The kits look great and very well made (bought from TCE - thanks). The front fit's perfectly.
However the rear rotors are contacting the lower control arms:
The interference is about .04" so I know the easy way out is to grind the control arms. Just wondering if anyone else has had this issue or can confirm the C5 and C6 rear knuckles differ by about 1/8"?
I've never heard of this. Seems possibly an issue with the cross fit of parts or maybe an alternative wheel bearing or...The lack of a factory dust plate of sorts perhaps?
Can't say for sure about differences between C5 and C6 knuckles other than the C6 knuckles are more rugged. People do regularly use them on C5s. There could be differences in the control arms dimensions but I don't really know.
I ran the W4A version of your rear kit on my C6Z. There was no issue with the rotor clearing the control arm although the rotor barely cleared (less than 1/16) the tie rod end. Other than needing to be careful when greasing the tie rod end I didn't have an issue with it in 3 seasons of usage.
Size of the screw driver used to show gap size.
Bill
Last edited by Bill Dearborn; 01-28-2017 at 04:22 PM.
Thanks for the info. I did work with Wilwood for about 2 weeks - they didn't have an explanation and recommended grinding. I have checked the part numbers on the control arms and knuckles and they look correct for late C5. I'm beginning to think Wilwood has the clearance very tight.
If I space the rotor/hub out so it doesn't rub I need to space the caliper bracket out about the same amount (so I don't think it's the hub).
09-02-2014, 10:35 AM
