Apocolipse

Are you guys running aluminum?

Bill Dearborn

The stock clutch is fine for track work. LS7 clutch is fine as well. If you trailer your car and drive the car on the trailer the hardest workout the clutch will see is when you are driving onto the trailer.

The stock clutch in my C5Z had a small tab break off the pressure plate and I replaced it with an LS7 unit. That ran fine for 3.0 years then I sold the car to buy a C6Z. Have been running the same clutch since I bought the car in 09 with 13K miles. Didn't even bother replacing it 3 years ago when the engine was replaced. It has been burnt many times over the years from driving up on the trailer with idiots trying to help, to two teenage boys trying to learn how to drive a manual transmission car. Clutch is still going strong and other than adding a remote bleeder to the system when the engine was out have never done anything to it. Many high rpm shifts (6 per lap) per day (~ 30 laps per day, ~ 20 days per year) with no issue. Have never had a Corvette Clutch stick to the floor.

Bill

troyguitar

I love the lightweight one with my stage 2 setup. It only chatters a little bit when you are below like 1200 rpm and is otherwise totally street friendly. It allows you to shift much more quickly both up and down.

Apocolipse

Makes me worried about my clutch choice...

steponc

If you are interested I have a Fidanza twin disc with aluminum flywheel and GM slave. All new in the box.

crimlwC6

I've had a spec 3 plus iirc with a used fidz aluminum flywheel for 3 yrs racing.

mark b

So car is being fixed, my clutch is still good, but my flywheel was burnt so Im putting in a fidanza aluminum flywheel with my LS6 clutch, replaced the slave, bearings, and my driveshaft is solid..

Hope when the car is put back together this solves the issue I had..
I should have about a year before the clutch needs changing..

Then Ill get a Mccleod RST twin clutch that handles 800 hp...with my 420 or so it should last for a long time..

Apocolipse

I went with a steel because I figured it would help smooth the transition bite with the stage 3... I don't drag and it's for on the street plus some open track races...im worried it will bite too hard I'm only a mild 383.

Poor-sha

The Exedy clutch in my C6Z is toast after this week at NCM. Frankly it's lifespan was unacceptably short for a car that is 99% track.

So far the leading contenders for replacement are Tilton and the RPS that JD mentioned. I like the idea that the Tilton comes with a replacement slave as I currently run the Tilton slave for the LS9X + a spacer and want to replace that to make sure everything is designed to work together before I pull this car apart again. I also have the Tick master and the engine makes 660 HP at the crank.

Any other feedback on the RPS or Tilton setups? Any other recommendations for a track car that will hold up?

Lasco001

RPS 3 Full Carbon Lightweight works perfectly in my C5 with GT3 engine
For the racetrack perfect approach needs some training, therefore safe for the road not suitable.

For customers I install a lot of the McCloud RXT this also works very well

Werks

Hey Sean, I've been running the Tilton 7.25" triple plate carbon clutch and flywheel on my car for about about 2 years now which weighs about 13lbs. Initial purchase price is a little high but the beauty of it is that the clutch pack is extremely long wearing. So during normal use as the carbon clutch plates start to wear the pedal engagement point gets later in the range of pedal movement. You can then purchase low cost shims from Tilton to re-shim the clutch pack which in essence brings it back to new spec. You can do this about 3x times before needing to replace the clutch pack. The low moi of the clutch makes it a little tricky to use for the street i.e. at stop lights etc where you tend to have to slip it which is not good for wear and is probably primarily what caused me to have to have the clutch re-shimmed after about a season and a half (about 45 track days) but I've since stopped street'ing the car and after a good 30+ track days since then I've noticed almost no change in the engagement point of the pedal (meaning next to no wear). I'm guessing with track only use now I should be able to get at least 2 seasons (60x track days) out of each re-shim, so theoretically I would think that a new clutch pack for track only use should last about 180x track days before needing to be replaced.

The beauty of a the Tilton carbon clutch is that the MOI on it is so low that your engine accelerates (spools up) so quickly that it's amazing, it almost feels like you picked up an extra 30-40hp. Also the clamping power that these things have is impressive, even with the lightest spring the clutch will hold over 1000 ft-lb of torque, so they do not slip. Also the the amount of pedal pressure required to modulate the clutch is just slightly more than stock, so it's not crazy heavy. Imho I think that for a track oriented car the Tilton carbon clutch is something that is well worth your time to take a look at.

Hi Volts Z06

Mantic Dual Disk. Switched to this after a brand new Spec single disk (Stage 3) exploded and caused about $10k worth of damage (mostly from the fire which ensued). I've been running it for a full season behind my LS-3 stroker which made close to 500 ft. Lbs of torque at the rear wheels. Feels great and gives you reason to think about it. A Tick master cylinder is a must have item with any aftermarket clutch and don't forget the remote bleeder as well.

Poor-sha

Thanks Ron. At ~$6K for just the parts I have a really hard time justifying the cost of the carbon Tilton. I'm considering the metallic version at less than half the cost but I do hear they are on or off with no slip.

I'm hoping for something that will last a very long time without having to tear in to the drivetrain again. It's such a PITA to get to the clutch on these cars and you would think on the track a well designed clutch should last damn near forever given that you hardly ever start from a stop and slip the clutch.

Right now my Exedy has just started to slip and it's only at heavy throttle right at torque peak in 3rd in 4th. Of course if I'm going to spend a weekend tearing in to it though I just want to replace parts rather than shim them.

Werks

Hey Sean, agree on the price of them being high but I believe they are without a doubt the ultimate track clutch. Talk to some of the race guys though as I believe they have been using the Rally clutch plates also with good results!

Screamin Z

Another vote for the RPS clutch. Been running the twin disk carbon clutch with aluminum flywheel. We made a spacer to work with the Tilton slave. Has lasted a long time.

Superbee

Hi Sean
I have a complete Tilton setup, carbon/carbon I can sell you. Bought Katech, used fo2 months. Half price just PM me

Poor-sha

How long are you going on the RPS clutch before having to replace the discs?

Do you know the part number of the Tilton slave you are running and the specs on the spacer? I need to try and figure out if it's the same slave that's in my car and if my current spacer will work.

Are you running the Tick master as well? Which size?

Thanks.

Screamin Z

Last time we changed disks was 2 years ago as preventative maintenance. It didn't exactly need it.

I'll have to try and find the part number on the slave. Ours was provided by rob at RPS. Also I'll have to find the spacer information when I get home later today.

The sku/part number on the tick/Tilton master is TAMCKYBC6