No one told me
08-12-2014, 10:03 PM
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
No one told me
Default No one told me
Im a drag racer 56 years old got my first vette C6 Base this month and damn do I like turning curves. I have a 9sec gen 5 Camaro drag car really awesome, so I need some help, liking the curve carving Im planning on a Z06 wide body rear not the front yet adding a novi 1500 and mild cam headers 3" exhaust, Twin mantic clutch ecs brace. I don't have a clue on wheels and tires really don't understand the computer looking at stagger 18 to 19. I would like 20 front and back but what works without getting engine drag, stay with the 18 fr and 19 rear stock tire ht or are their combos that work. I cant Imagine what these cars are capable of after pushing a 4k lb pig into the 9s. This accelerating in a turn thing is awesome. Would like the RTS welds in 20 but open on the wheels how do you get the computer happy? Wide as possible in front and back.
Thanks
Mike aka Bad Dad
Im a drag racer 56 years old got my first vette C6 Base this month and damn do I like turning curves. I have a 9sec gen 5 Camaro drag car really awesome, so I need some help, liking the curve carving Im planning on a Z06 wide body rear not the front yet adding a novi 1500 and mild cam headers 3" exhaust, Twin mantic clutch ecs brace. I don't have a clue on wheels and tires really don't understand the computer looking at stagger 18 to 19. I would like 20 front and back but what works without getting engine drag, stay with the 18 fr and 19 rear stock tire ht or are their combos that work. I cant Imagine what these cars are capable of after pushing a 4k lb pig into the 9s. This accelerating in a turn thing is awesome. Would like the RTS welds in 20 but open on the wheels how do you get the computer happy? Wide as possible in front and back.
Thanks
Mike aka Bad Dad
08-12-2014, 11:56 PM
#2
Le Mans Master
Do a bit of a search in the racing section and you'll find what others say works well.
I'd say look for 18'S all the way around. As its easier and cheaper to find performance tires in 18 than 20
I'd say look for 18'S all the way around. As its easier and cheaper to find performance tires in 18 than 20
08-13-2014, 12:08 AM
#3
Le Mans Master
If you want turning performance buy 18x11" front and 18x12 in the rear. Run 315s up front and 335 in the rear. I got these tires for my street driven CTS-V and I really like them. They provide great dry grip on the street, but I am not sure how they do in standing water driving.
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....8GFR&tab=Sizes
If you want bling then buy the 20" wheels.
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....8GFR&tab=Sizes
If you want bling then buy the 20" wheels.
08-13-2014, 10:01 AM
#6
The car expects the front tires to be turning faster than the rear tires.
So, you need to keep the stock revolution-per-mile ratio between the front and rear tires as close to the same as stock. Stock tires are 816 revs/mile on the fronts, 783 revs/mile on the rear, so you should be okay if you maintain close to that ratio (1.042:1). I dunno how far you can deviate from that before causing the computer to malfunction.
Tire Rack will give you the rev-per-mile number for various sizes and brands (click on "specs").
So, you need to keep the stock revolution-per-mile ratio between the front and rear tires as close to the same as stock. Stock tires are 816 revs/mile on the fronts, 783 revs/mile on the rear, so you should be okay if you maintain close to that ratio (1.042:1). I dunno how far you can deviate from that before causing the computer to malfunction.
Tire Rack will give you the rev-per-mile number for various sizes and brands (click on "specs").
08-13-2014, 10:37 AM
#7
Drifting
Ex drag racer here, ran Super Gas, Super Comp ext.
IMHO do not do anything to the car yet if you want to go around corners quickly.
A wide booty setup will not help on the road course and will actually hurt cars balance, you need grip in the front to reduce under-steer.
Brakes, safety and cooling are the issues to deal with first.
Go out to Sebring, Palm Beach, or Daytona during a HPDE event if you want to see how people go around corners quickly and the setups that work.
Chin will be at Sebring this Saturday
http://www.chinmotorsports.com/Sebring.aspx
http://www.drivenasafl.com/
http://performancedrivinggroup.com/events/
IMHO do not do anything to the car yet if you want to go around corners quickly.
A wide booty setup will not help on the road course and will actually hurt cars balance, you need grip in the front to reduce under-steer.
Brakes, safety and cooling are the issues to deal with first.
Go out to Sebring, Palm Beach, or Daytona during a HPDE event if you want to see how people go around corners quickly and the setups that work.
Chin will be at Sebring this Saturday
http://www.chinmotorsports.com/Sebring.aspx
http://www.drivenasafl.com/
http://performancedrivinggroup.com/events/
08-13-2014, 10:45 AM
#8
Le Mans Master
Mike,
Really short version of what I'd recommend is do *zero* to your car until you get some track time on it. I expect you're going to fall into the same trap as the rest of us and fall in love with tracking your car (either on the track or autocross). Mods to the car are utterly different in goals than drag racing. and you very well may go in the wrong direction if you mod first.
Oh, and have a blast!
Mike
Really short version of what I'd recommend is do *zero* to your car until you get some track time on it. I expect you're going to fall into the same trap as the rest of us and fall in love with tracking your car (either on the track or autocross). Mods to the car are utterly different in goals than drag racing. and you very well may go in the wrong direction if you mod first.
Oh, and have a blast!
Mike
08-13-2014, 11:28 AM
#9
Safety Car
Do nothing. Spend at least a year learning how to drive. Spend your money on more track days. Even if you do nothing to the car budget $1,000 a day for all your maintenance and travel costs.
Spend the money on driving not on bling.
Richard Newton
Track Day Primer
Spend the money on driving not on bling.
Richard Newton
Track Day Primer
08-13-2014, 01:24 PM
#10
Pro
Thread Starter
OK I'm doing nothing WOW I didn't know how hard that is to do. I will start with safety and track time racing season is coming here in Fla.
I have to say waking up in the morning now and getting to drive my vette to work is absolutely awesome. I appreciate the advice and suggestions. And I like performance over bling, the car screams both by itself.
YES this old guy is in love with this car.
But It Is To Quiet..
I have to say waking up in the morning now and getting to drive my vette to work is absolutely awesome. I appreciate the advice and suggestions. And I like performance over bling, the car screams both by itself.
YES this old guy is in love with this car.
But It Is To Quiet..
08-14-2014, 12:27 PM
#11
Pro
Thread Starter
Mike,
Really short version of what I'd recommend is do *zero* to your car until you get some track time on it. I expect you're going to fall into the same trap as the rest of us and fall in love with tracking your car (either on the track or autocross). Mods to the car are utterly different in goals than drag racing. and you very well may go in the wrong direction if you mod first.
Oh, and have a blast!
Mike
Really short version of what I'd recommend is do *zero* to your car until you get some track time on it. I expect you're going to fall into the same trap as the rest of us and fall in love with tracking your car (either on the track or autocross). Mods to the car are utterly different in goals than drag racing. and you very well may go in the wrong direction if you mod first.
Oh, and have a blast!
Mike
Advice Taken
08-14-2014, 04:06 PM
#12
What others said on the performance mods... later. If you want to tinker (and that is part of the fun of these cars IMHO) here's some stuff I did to mine -- part of it is normal maintenance catch-up on a used car and part of it is to prep the car for track use:
1. New coolant. I went 60 water / 40 coolant with a bottle of water wetter (can't hurt). The 60/40 should cool slightly better than 50/50. For a street car in cold weather I personally wouldn't go over 60/40.
2. New fluid in trans, diff, power steering (flushed) (for the P.S. I used what Redline recommends for my car... I've seen P.S. fluid get hot in the past on a track, so wanted the best fluid). With no coolers you'll want the best fluid for your trans and diff as well... which is probably going to be Amsoil or Redline for the trans, unsure about your diff (my Z06 diff pretty much uses only the OEM fluid). Check with a rep for the proper fluid, there are many variations and only one is probably correct.
3. I installed new pads and rotors (mostly OEM) but mine were due anyway. Had they had more life in them I would have left them alone.
4. Removed upper radiator cover and flushed A/C condenser fins (dirty) and radiator fins (not too dirty) with aluminum-friendly commercial HVAC foaming condenser cleaner (the stuff you get at Graingers, not the Home Depot brand) and a water hose. Let me know if you want the part number. I had initially thought of using a pressure washer but read that it is a bad idea (bends the fins).
5. Four wheel alignment. Find the torque values for whatever they'll be loosening and give them to the guy that does the alignment and try to make sure he does torque the stuff (mainly the camber eccentrics, I have heard reports of those shifting under hard track use). If not, torque them yourself when you get home from the alignment. Mark the camber eccentrics with a Sharpie so you can see, later, if they've moved during the track event.
6. Check for play/looseness/roughness in all four wheel bearings. I found a little steering rack play in my right front wheel, which means I'll probably get to replace the steering rack in the not too distant future. What fun
7. Check for run-out on all wheels. You can kinda do this by eye if you have the car on jackstands. Do the same for your brake rotors when you have the wheels off for bleeding the brakes (you'll need a dial indicator for this, allowable runout is very very small -- something like .003). Torqueth thy lug nuts
8. Get a good eyeball on your motor mounts; if you have they hydraulic ones they sometimes break and leak (I'm thinking this may be more of a problem on drag-stripped cars, but that's just a guess).
9. Go over basic suspension stuff for tightness; sway bar brackets, control arm mounting nuts, rear spindle nuts, etc.
10. Watch your oil temp. Personally I wouldn't let it get over 275F. If it does get that hot then think about switching to a 10W40 or 20W50 for your next track event.
1. New coolant. I went 60 water / 40 coolant with a bottle of water wetter (can't hurt). The 60/40 should cool slightly better than 50/50. For a street car in cold weather I personally wouldn't go over 60/40.
2. New fluid in trans, diff, power steering (flushed) (for the P.S. I used what Redline recommends for my car... I've seen P.S. fluid get hot in the past on a track, so wanted the best fluid). With no coolers you'll want the best fluid for your trans and diff as well... which is probably going to be Amsoil or Redline for the trans, unsure about your diff (my Z06 diff pretty much uses only the OEM fluid). Check with a rep for the proper fluid, there are many variations and only one is probably correct.
3. I installed new pads and rotors (mostly OEM) but mine were due anyway. Had they had more life in them I would have left them alone.
4. Removed upper radiator cover and flushed A/C condenser fins (dirty) and radiator fins (not too dirty) with aluminum-friendly commercial HVAC foaming condenser cleaner (the stuff you get at Graingers, not the Home Depot brand) and a water hose. Let me know if you want the part number. I had initially thought of using a pressure washer but read that it is a bad idea (bends the fins).
5. Four wheel alignment. Find the torque values for whatever they'll be loosening and give them to the guy that does the alignment and try to make sure he does torque the stuff (mainly the camber eccentrics, I have heard reports of those shifting under hard track use). If not, torque them yourself when you get home from the alignment. Mark the camber eccentrics with a Sharpie so you can see, later, if they've moved during the track event.
6. Check for play/looseness/roughness in all four wheel bearings. I found a little steering rack play in my right front wheel, which means I'll probably get to replace the steering rack in the not too distant future. What fun
7. Check for run-out on all wheels. You can kinda do this by eye if you have the car on jackstands. Do the same for your brake rotors when you have the wheels off for bleeding the brakes (you'll need a dial indicator for this, allowable runout is very very small -- something like .003). Torqueth thy lug nuts
8. Get a good eyeball on your motor mounts; if you have they hydraulic ones they sometimes break and leak (I'm thinking this may be more of a problem on drag-stripped cars, but that's just a guess).
9. Go over basic suspension stuff for tightness; sway bar brackets, control arm mounting nuts, rear spindle nuts, etc.
10. Watch your oil temp. Personally I wouldn't let it get over 275F. If it does get that hot then think about switching to a 10W40 or 20W50 for your next track event.
08-14-2014, 05:44 PM
#13
Pro
Thread Starter
What others said on the performance mods... later. If you want to tinker (and that is part of the fun of these cars IMHO) here's some stuff I did to mine -- part of it is normal maintenance catch-up on a used car and part of it is to prep the car for track use:
1. New coolant. I went 60 water / 40 coolant with a bottle of water wetter (can't hurt). The 60/40 should cool slightly better than 50/50. For a street car in cold weather I personally wouldn't go over 60/40.
2. New fluid in trans, diff, power steering (flushed) (for the P.S. I used what Redline recommends for my car... I've seen P.S. fluid get hot in the past on a track, so wanted the best fluid). With no coolers you'll want the best fluid for your trans and diff as well... which is probably going to be Amsoil or Redline for the trans, unsure about your diff (my Z06 diff pretty much uses only the OEM fluid). Check with a rep for the proper fluid, there are many variations and only one is probably correct.
3. I installed new pads and rotors (mostly OEM) but mine were due anyway. Had they had more life in them I would have left them alone.
4. Removed upper radiator cover and flushed A/C condenser fins (dirty) and radiator fins (not too dirty) with aluminum-friendly commercial HVAC foaming condenser cleaner (the stuff you get at Graingers, not the Home Depot brand) and a water hose. Let me know if you want the part number. I had initially thought of using a pressure washer but read that it is a bad idea (bends the fins).
5. Four wheel alignment. Find the torque values for whatever they'll be loosening and give them to the guy that does the alignment and try to make sure he does torque the stuff (mainly the camber eccentrics, I have heard reports of those shifting under hard track use). If not, torque them yourself when you get home from the alignment. Mark the camber eccentrics with a Sharpie so you can see, later, if they've moved during the track event.
6. Check for play/looseness/roughness in all four wheel bearings. I found a little steering rack play in my right front wheel, which means I'll probably get to replace the steering rack in the not too distant future. What fun
7. Check for run-out on all wheels. You can kinda do this by eye if you have the car on jackstands. Do the same for your brake rotors when you have the wheels off for bleeding the brakes (you'll need a dial indicator for this, allowable runout is very very small -- something like .003). Torqueth thy lug nuts
8. Get a good eyeball on your motor mounts; if you have they hydraulic ones they sometimes break and leak (I'm thinking this may be more of a problem on drag-stripped cars, but that's just a guess).
9. Go over basic suspension stuff for tightness; sway bar brackets, control arm mounting nuts, rear spindle nuts, etc.
10. Watch your oil temp. Personally I wouldn't let it get over 275F. If it does get that hot then think about switching to a 10W40 or 20W50 for your next track event.
1. New coolant. I went 60 water / 40 coolant with a bottle of water wetter (can't hurt). The 60/40 should cool slightly better than 50/50. For a street car in cold weather I personally wouldn't go over 60/40.
2. New fluid in trans, diff, power steering (flushed) (for the P.S. I used what Redline recommends for my car... I've seen P.S. fluid get hot in the past on a track, so wanted the best fluid). With no coolers you'll want the best fluid for your trans and diff as well... which is probably going to be Amsoil or Redline for the trans, unsure about your diff (my Z06 diff pretty much uses only the OEM fluid). Check with a rep for the proper fluid, there are many variations and only one is probably correct.
3. I installed new pads and rotors (mostly OEM) but mine were due anyway. Had they had more life in them I would have left them alone.
4. Removed upper radiator cover and flushed A/C condenser fins (dirty) and radiator fins (not too dirty) with aluminum-friendly commercial HVAC foaming condenser cleaner (the stuff you get at Graingers, not the Home Depot brand) and a water hose. Let me know if you want the part number. I had initially thought of using a pressure washer but read that it is a bad idea (bends the fins).
5. Four wheel alignment. Find the torque values for whatever they'll be loosening and give them to the guy that does the alignment and try to make sure he does torque the stuff (mainly the camber eccentrics, I have heard reports of those shifting under hard track use). If not, torque them yourself when you get home from the alignment. Mark the camber eccentrics with a Sharpie so you can see, later, if they've moved during the track event.
6. Check for play/looseness/roughness in all four wheel bearings. I found a little steering rack play in my right front wheel, which means I'll probably get to replace the steering rack in the not too distant future. What fun
7. Check for run-out on all wheels. You can kinda do this by eye if you have the car on jackstands. Do the same for your brake rotors when you have the wheels off for bleeding the brakes (you'll need a dial indicator for this, allowable runout is very very small -- something like .003). Torqueth thy lug nuts
8. Get a good eyeball on your motor mounts; if you have they hydraulic ones they sometimes break and leak (I'm thinking this may be more of a problem on drag-stripped cars, but that's just a guess).
9. Go over basic suspension stuff for tightness; sway bar brackets, control arm mounting nuts, rear spindle nuts, etc.
10. Watch your oil temp. Personally I wouldn't let it get over 275F. If it does get that hot then think about switching to a 10W40 or 20W50 for your next track event.
