First HPDE Event. Do I Need New Brakes?
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
First HPDE Event. Do I Need New Brakes?
Running my first HPDE event at Thunderhill next month in the beginners bracket. Have a 2000 C5 convertible and hope to do 3-4 events per year but it will never be a track only car. Currently running cheapo Brakemotive rotors and ceramic pads. I realize brake and rotors will need upgrading if I continue to track even in a non competitive event. My question will my current crappy ceramic pads be OK for the first HPDE event. Thanks for the help, Mark
#2
I'd say yes, you do need new pads. Generally 1st timers do not get brakes hot enough to absolutely require new pads. If they were worn more than 50% that would change. Ceramics also change the game. Their operating temp is too low and their poor wear characteristics are such that replacement of them really is necessary. Flush the fluid while you're at it. Together, not one or the other and you will be good to go.
You're lucky this track allows 'verts. None around here do. I have a 330Ci that handles and steers so differently than the 'Vette, I would love to test it on the track.
You're lucky this track allows 'verts. None around here do. I have a 330Ci that handles and steers so differently than the 'Vette, I would love to test it on the track.
#3
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Running my first HPDE event at Thunderhill next month in the beginners bracket. Have a 2000 C5 convertible and hope to do 3-4 events per year but it will never be a track only car. Currently running cheapo Brakemotive rotors and ceramic pads. I realize brake and rotors will need upgrading if I continue to track even in a non competitive event. My question will my current crappy ceramic pads be OK for the first HPDE event. Thanks for the help, Mark
#4
Burning Brakes
Off Topic - come down to West Virginia. Summit Point Shenandoah allows Verts. Slower speed, highly technical track.
#5
Racer
Thread Starter
I'd say yes, you do need new pads. Generally 1st timers do not get brakes hot enough to absolutely require new pads. If they were worn more than 50% that would change. Ceramics also change the game. Their operating temp is too low and their poor wear characteristics are such that replacement of them really is necessary. Flush the fluid while you're at it. Together, not one or the other and you will be good to go.
You're lucky this track allows 'verts. None around here do. I have a 330Ci that handles and steers so differently than the 'Vette, I would love to test it on the track.
You're lucky this track allows 'verts. None around here do. I have a 330Ci that handles and steers so differently than the 'Vette, I would love to test it on the track.
The first thing you will realize is one question on this Forum will get you a thousand different answers, each being right under various assumptions and facts. My advice, free and worth every cent, is get a new set of street pads that don't require serious break in and have an instructor explain good braking technique. Your goals will be to learn good lines, keep your eyes up and forward, seat position, minimize steering inputs and other basics. Assuming you will have only the stock seat belt and this is your first time on track, forget about being fast and try to be smooth. If you like HPDEs and want to continue, learn about brake pads, rotors, harness system, tires, and many other things but the best way to go faster is to be smooth and run good lines from lots of seat time.
#6
Burning Brakes
yes those will be fine.. after the brake upgrade, the addiction starts...you will see how deeper you can go into a turn..... then $30,000 later your car is a "track car". ask me how I know.
Last edited by Mike.D; 08-13-2014 at 09:16 PM.
#7
Racer
Thread Starter
Researching the mods I can see that it could be a never ending hobby. Sure looks like a lot of fun though. At least you have something to show for your $30,000. Probably comes out to $1 a smile
#8
Drifting
I just did my first event earlier this year. I got a bunch of great advice, I attached my thread below.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/auto...imidating.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/auto...imidating.html
#9
Racer
Thread Starter
I just did my first event earlier this year. I got a bunch of great advice, I attached my thread below.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/auto...imidating.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/auto...imidating.html
#10
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Oct 1999
Location: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
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Not sure about Brakemotive rotors. Are they drilled or solid? If drilled spend some money on some cheapo NAPA Premium Rotors. They are solid rotors and will hold up to 3 or 4 days of hard braking. Try Hawk HP Plus brake pads. They are good track pads for a beginner and aren't as expensive as some others. They will dust and squeal.
Flush your brake fluid with something like Ford DOT3 Super Duty fluid (500 deg dry boiling point and reasonably priced), Wilwood 570, etc.
On a car as old as yours make sure the cooling system is in good shape. Get under the front of the car and check for debris lodged in front of the AC condenser right at the top of the condenser. Your Dexcool should be within its 5 year life cycle. If not flush the system and install new Dex.
Then check the serpentine belt and pulleys to make sure they are OK.
Before going to the track add an extra quart of oil and check it during the day to make sure it stays at that level. I never bothered removing the extra quart.
Check the PS, trans and diff fluids. PS fluid should be just a little under the Fill Cold line when cold, otherwise, the fluid may overflow the reservoir when it gets hot.
A lot of little things but any of them can ruin your day if Murphy decides to bite.
Bill
Flush your brake fluid with something like Ford DOT3 Super Duty fluid (500 deg dry boiling point and reasonably priced), Wilwood 570, etc.
On a car as old as yours make sure the cooling system is in good shape. Get under the front of the car and check for debris lodged in front of the AC condenser right at the top of the condenser. Your Dexcool should be within its 5 year life cycle. If not flush the system and install new Dex.
Then check the serpentine belt and pulleys to make sure they are OK.
Before going to the track add an extra quart of oil and check it during the day to make sure it stays at that level. I never bothered removing the extra quart.
Check the PS, trans and diff fluids. PS fluid should be just a little under the Fill Cold line when cold, otherwise, the fluid may overflow the reservoir when it gets hot.
A lot of little things but any of them can ruin your day if Murphy decides to bite.
Bill
#11
I would say, its unliekly you will really heat cycle anything too seriously if it is your first actual track day in any car, but for confidence I would do a full brake fluid swap to ate or better and do front and rear pads real track pads like an xp10/8 combo.
I say front and rear as for my first track day (wasnt in a vette but an sti with reasonable brembos) i only did front pads and I was draging the brakes so much i boiled the fluid in the front cause they were doing all the work, it is sort of scary when you are already thinking about 100 different things and really overwhelmed.
Also I run carbo techs and i have never had a pair not gas out on me in the morning when new. Which is a bit scary if you haven't experienced it or dont expect it. I used to buy them "pre-bedded" which i assumed really meant pre-gassed, but clearly wasn't the case. Possibly someone else can reccomend something that doesn't do that, or you can run carbos just be ready for it. They are excelent pads otherwise.
First track day in my vette i just did ate bleed with whatever random pads the previous owner put on it. I had already changed the trans and diff fluid and oil. They were SUPER SKETCHY but i had been on track a number of times so knew what could happen and how to deal with it so wasn't too concerned.
Any new pad/fluid combo can be driven around just setting a slower limit for the cars lap time. But as a rookie I would advise you prep the car in an attempt to take brakes out of the equasion, as being on track is fairly overwheling the first time. No reason to try to figure out whats going on with your brakes at the same time.
I say front and rear as for my first track day (wasnt in a vette but an sti with reasonable brembos) i only did front pads and I was draging the brakes so much i boiled the fluid in the front cause they were doing all the work, it is sort of scary when you are already thinking about 100 different things and really overwhelmed.
Also I run carbo techs and i have never had a pair not gas out on me in the morning when new. Which is a bit scary if you haven't experienced it or dont expect it. I used to buy them "pre-bedded" which i assumed really meant pre-gassed, but clearly wasn't the case. Possibly someone else can reccomend something that doesn't do that, or you can run carbos just be ready for it. They are excelent pads otherwise.
First track day in my vette i just did ate bleed with whatever random pads the previous owner put on it. I had already changed the trans and diff fluid and oil. They were SUPER SKETCHY but i had been on track a number of times so knew what could happen and how to deal with it so wasn't too concerned.
Any new pad/fluid combo can be driven around just setting a slower limit for the cars lap time. But as a rookie I would advise you prep the car in an attempt to take brakes out of the equasion, as being on track is fairly overwheling the first time. No reason to try to figure out whats going on with your brakes at the same time.
#12
Racer
Thread Starter
Thanks for all the advice. I went ahead and ordered some new Hawk performance street/race pads. Brand new item. Supposedly good from 100-1200 degrees. Better than the HPS and HP+. Only place I could find them was KNS brakes. I agree, one less thing to worry about. My rotors are drilled and slotted. (I know but they sure look nice) I will try and get through one event with those. Can't believe I threw my stock rotors away, I keep all my stock stuff. Also have an A&A blower so I will be keeping an eye on my engine temp. Have nice t-10 CCW wheels and Hankook Ventus tires. Planning on putting on my stock rims and BFG Super Sport tires for the event because my CCW's are so damn nice. I will be checking fluids and replacing brake fluid when I change brakes. Keep the advice coming, nice to hear from experience.
#13
Drifting
I would NOT use ceramic pads at all on track. If they were stock but semi-metallic I'd say you will be ok. In my experience ceramics don't work well on the street on a hot day. Even first day at this you will put more heat in them than that.