Most Track-Ready Corvette? (C5, C6)
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Most Track-Ready Corvette? (C5, C6)
Hey all -
been a lonnggggg time since my last post. I had a 97 C5 Z51 until 2002 which I autocrossed in Street-Mod2, and did some track days. Sold it to buy a Radical and have been in similar cars ever since.
I've been racing SCCA open wheel quite successfully for the past 10 years, but since SCCA racing is sort of dying off around Colorado, plus us having a new baby boy, I'm considering taking a step back into production cars that don't take quite as much time to keep in tip-top shape for the race track, and that I'll be able to drive day-to-day a bit for fun as well. Plus, getting tired of "racing" in a class of one.
What I'm trying to get a sense of (and doing lots of forum searching), is generally how Corvettes have come along in terms of track-readiness. For example, my C5 would overheat the oil, water, brakes, diff, and transmission after only a few short hard laps on track.
I see that some of the C6's (Z06 only?) came with diff/transmission coolers. How do they do with brakes, oil, water, etc?
I'm thinking I'll probably do some NASA Time Trials with the car just to scratch the competitive itch. Thinking of a C5 Z06, or a C6 Z06, or perhaps a C6 GS, (what with all the fear of the C6 Z06 heads going kerblammo).
Is the C6 Z06 dry sump really worth anything, or is it not a very effective system out on track once there are slicks and higher g's involved? I ask since shortly after I sold my C5, the new owner ran it low on oil and blew 'er up. In the open wheel cars, we always run dry sumps.
Put another way, I know a C5 Z06 would take a lot of extra bits to allow it to do any number of laps in a row without overheating everything, since I remember all the T1 kits (diff cooler, radiator, oil cooler, brake ducting, ball joint covers etc).
Are any of the C6's any better in this regard, or do most of the aftermarket additions still need to be made since they're not in place from the factory?
Will keep searching the forum, but thought I'd throw up a new post in case there are some quick answers to help guide the ol' search.
Beyond whatever it would take to get the car to be reliable on track (coolers, pads, etc), I'd probably do some simple stuff like slicks on spare wheels, shocks, and maybe bushings, just to sharpen it up a bit, but still liveable on the street.
Thanks all,
-Jake
been a lonnggggg time since my last post. I had a 97 C5 Z51 until 2002 which I autocrossed in Street-Mod2, and did some track days. Sold it to buy a Radical and have been in similar cars ever since.
I've been racing SCCA open wheel quite successfully for the past 10 years, but since SCCA racing is sort of dying off around Colorado, plus us having a new baby boy, I'm considering taking a step back into production cars that don't take quite as much time to keep in tip-top shape for the race track, and that I'll be able to drive day-to-day a bit for fun as well. Plus, getting tired of "racing" in a class of one.
What I'm trying to get a sense of (and doing lots of forum searching), is generally how Corvettes have come along in terms of track-readiness. For example, my C5 would overheat the oil, water, brakes, diff, and transmission after only a few short hard laps on track.
I see that some of the C6's (Z06 only?) came with diff/transmission coolers. How do they do with brakes, oil, water, etc?
I'm thinking I'll probably do some NASA Time Trials with the car just to scratch the competitive itch. Thinking of a C5 Z06, or a C6 Z06, or perhaps a C6 GS, (what with all the fear of the C6 Z06 heads going kerblammo).
Is the C6 Z06 dry sump really worth anything, or is it not a very effective system out on track once there are slicks and higher g's involved? I ask since shortly after I sold my C5, the new owner ran it low on oil and blew 'er up. In the open wheel cars, we always run dry sumps.
Put another way, I know a C5 Z06 would take a lot of extra bits to allow it to do any number of laps in a row without overheating everything, since I remember all the T1 kits (diff cooler, radiator, oil cooler, brake ducting, ball joint covers etc).
Are any of the C6's any better in this regard, or do most of the aftermarket additions still need to be made since they're not in place from the factory?
Will keep searching the forum, but thought I'd throw up a new post in case there are some quick answers to help guide the ol' search.
Beyond whatever it would take to get the car to be reliable on track (coolers, pads, etc), I'd probably do some simple stuff like slicks on spare wheels, shocks, and maybe bushings, just to sharpen it up a bit, but still liveable on the street.
Thanks all,
-Jake
#2
Drifting
AFAIK all C5's and C6's need more or less the same stuff. Figure $5k ballpark to make the car track-worthy, plus wheels/tires/pads/harnesses.
I'm basically driving the car you describe, C5Z with all of the cooling upgrades of a race car but with a full interior and daily driven on the street. Power/weight/tire setup is for NASA TT3.
I'm basically driving the car you describe, C5Z with all of the cooling upgrades of a race car but with a full interior and daily driven on the street. Power/weight/tire setup is for NASA TT3.
#3
Safety Car
My C6 Z06 runs NASA time trials with stock calipers (2 piece rotors) and carbotech xp20s front XP 10s rear. This set up gives me great stopping power for the 15 minutes sessions I run. Much longer and I would upgrade calipers.
I make over 650 crank hp with heads and cam and coolant and oil temps are not an issue (I do have a World Challenge vented hood).
Dry sump with a larger tank keeps my oil pressure where it needs to be running slicks, coilovers, full aero, etc.
Tranny and diff temps have never gotten high with the factory coolers. My C5 Z06 would get overheat warnings after 15 to 20 minutes.
I make over 650 crank hp with heads and cam and coolant and oil temps are not an issue (I do have a World Challenge vented hood).
Dry sump with a larger tank keeps my oil pressure where it needs to be running slicks, coilovers, full aero, etc.
Tranny and diff temps have never gotten high with the factory coolers. My C5 Z06 would get overheat warnings after 15 to 20 minutes.
#4
Drifting
If you are running TT I don't think you need to worry about any overheating no matter C5 or C6. You aren't going to get faster after your 2nd or 3rd lap so no need to worry about cooling or you can always run two hot laps and a cooling lap then two hot laps and repeat during TT.
#5
Drifting
My C5 ran under 210 water degrees in 95 degrees in AZ this weekend. I run a front laying, cheaper nascar radiator and an oil cooler. No need to upgrade brakes, just good pads if running TT, now if running race group you will save money over the course of a year or two running an aftermarket caliper with cheaper, wider pads.
#6
Drifting
Thread Starter
If you are running TT I don't think you need to worry about any overheating no matter C5 or C6. You aren't going to get faster after your 2nd or 3rd lap so no need to worry about cooling or you can always run two hot laps and a cooling lap then two hot laps and repeat during TT.
Also, gotta make sure you can stay out for plenty of laps to show those pesky 911's what's-what
Appreciate the answers so far everybody.
-J
#7
Drifting
My C5Z fully stock hit 300F oil temp in 10-15 minutes and that was still taking it easy a little bit (leaving 2 seconds on the table on a 2 minute track). You absolutely need the oil cooler on a C5 if you push the car hard.
The vented hood might actually make a big difference in both cooling and lap times though, I have not tried one yet. It might be enough to make the car last for a 15-20 minute session with otherwise stock cooling and 15w50 oil. I don't think I've seen anyone test the cooling effects of the hood vents without already having other aftermarket cooling in place first.
The vented hood might actually make a big difference in both cooling and lap times though, I have not tried one yet. It might be enough to make the car last for a 15-20 minute session with otherwise stock cooling and 15w50 oil. I don't think I've seen anyone test the cooling effects of the hood vents without already having other aftermarket cooling in place first.
#8
Melting Slicks
Hey all -
been a lonnggggg time since my last post. I had a 97 C5 Z51 until 2002 which I autocrossed in Street-Mod2, and did some track days. Sold it to buy a Radical and have been in similar cars ever since.
I've been racing SCCA open wheel quite successfully for the past 10 years, but since SCCA racing is sort of dying off around Colorado, plus us having a new baby boy, I'm considering taking a step back into production cars that don't take quite as much time to keep in tip-top shape for the race track, and that I'll be able to drive day-to-day a bit for fun as well. Plus, getting tired of "racing" in a class of one.
What I'm trying to get a sense of (and doing lots of forum searching), is generally how Corvettes have come along in terms of track-readiness. For example, my C5 would overheat the oil, water, brakes, diff, and transmission after only a few short hard laps on track.
I see that some of the C6's (Z06 only?) came with diff/transmission coolers. How do they do with brakes, oil, water, etc?
I'm thinking I'll probably do some NASA Time Trials with the car just to scratch the competitive itch. Thinking of a C5 Z06, or a C6 Z06, or perhaps a C6 GS, (what with all the fear of the C6 Z06 heads going kerblammo).
Is the C6 Z06 dry sump really worth anything, or is it not a very effective system out on track once there are slicks and higher g's involved? I ask since shortly after I sold my C5, the new owner ran it low on oil and blew 'er up. In the open wheel cars, we always run dry sumps.
Put another way, I know a C5 Z06 would take a lot of extra bits to allow it to do any number of laps in a row without overheating everything, since I remember all the T1 kits (diff cooler, radiator, oil cooler, brake ducting, ball joint covers etc).
Are any of the C6's any better in this regard, or do most of the aftermarket additions still need to be made since they're not in place from the factory?
Will keep searching the forum, but thought I'd throw up a new post in case there are some quick answers to help guide the ol' search.
Beyond whatever it would take to get the car to be reliable on track (coolers, pads, etc), I'd probably do some simple stuff like slicks on spare wheels, shocks, and maybe bushings, just to sharpen it up a bit, but still liveable on the street.
Thanks all,
-Jake
been a lonnggggg time since my last post. I had a 97 C5 Z51 until 2002 which I autocrossed in Street-Mod2, and did some track days. Sold it to buy a Radical and have been in similar cars ever since.
I've been racing SCCA open wheel quite successfully for the past 10 years, but since SCCA racing is sort of dying off around Colorado, plus us having a new baby boy, I'm considering taking a step back into production cars that don't take quite as much time to keep in tip-top shape for the race track, and that I'll be able to drive day-to-day a bit for fun as well. Plus, getting tired of "racing" in a class of one.
What I'm trying to get a sense of (and doing lots of forum searching), is generally how Corvettes have come along in terms of track-readiness. For example, my C5 would overheat the oil, water, brakes, diff, and transmission after only a few short hard laps on track.
I see that some of the C6's (Z06 only?) came with diff/transmission coolers. How do they do with brakes, oil, water, etc?
I'm thinking I'll probably do some NASA Time Trials with the car just to scratch the competitive itch. Thinking of a C5 Z06, or a C6 Z06, or perhaps a C6 GS, (what with all the fear of the C6 Z06 heads going kerblammo).
Is the C6 Z06 dry sump really worth anything, or is it not a very effective system out on track once there are slicks and higher g's involved? I ask since shortly after I sold my C5, the new owner ran it low on oil and blew 'er up. In the open wheel cars, we always run dry sumps.
Put another way, I know a C5 Z06 would take a lot of extra bits to allow it to do any number of laps in a row without overheating everything, since I remember all the T1 kits (diff cooler, radiator, oil cooler, brake ducting, ball joint covers etc).
Are any of the C6's any better in this regard, or do most of the aftermarket additions still need to be made since they're not in place from the factory?
Will keep searching the forum, but thought I'd throw up a new post in case there are some quick answers to help guide the ol' search.
Beyond whatever it would take to get the car to be reliable on track (coolers, pads, etc), I'd probably do some simple stuff like slicks on spare wheels, shocks, and maybe bushings, just to sharpen it up a bit, but still liveable on the street.
Thanks all,
-Jake
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...k-day-car.html
JD
#10
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Oct 1999
Location: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
Posts: 40,088
Received 8,928 Likes
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5,333 Posts
Hey all -
been a lonnggggg time since my last post. I had a 97 C5 Z51 until 2002 which I autocrossed in Street-Mod2, and did some track days. Sold it to buy a Radical and have been in similar cars ever since.
I've been racing SCCA open wheel quite successfully for the past 10 years, but since SCCA racing is sort of dying off around Colorado, plus us having a new baby boy, I'm considering taking a step back into production cars that don't take quite as much time to keep in tip-top shape for the race track, and that I'll be able to drive day-to-day a bit for fun as well. Plus, getting tired of "racing" in a class of one.
What I'm trying to get a sense of (and doing lots of forum searching), is generally how Corvettes have come along in terms of track-readiness. For example, my C5 would overheat the oil, water, brakes, diff, and transmission after only a few short hard laps on track.
I see that some of the C6's (Z06 only?) came with diff/transmission coolers. How do they do with brakes, oil, water, etc?
I'm thinking I'll probably do some NASA Time Trials with the car just to scratch the competitive itch. Thinking of a C5 Z06, or a C6 Z06, or perhaps a C6 GS, (what with all the fear of the C6 Z06 heads going kerblammo).
Is the C6 Z06 dry sump really worth anything, or is it not a very effective system out on track once there are slicks and higher g's involved? I ask since shortly after I sold my C5, the new owner ran it low on oil and blew 'er up. In the open wheel cars, we always run dry sumps.
Put another way, I know a C5 Z06 would take a lot of extra bits to allow it to do any number of laps in a row without overheating everything, since I remember all the T1 kits (diff cooler, radiator, oil cooler, brake ducting, ball joint covers etc).
Are any of the C6's any better in this regard, or do most of the aftermarket additions still need to be made since they're not in place from the factory?
Will keep searching the forum, but thought I'd throw up a new post in case there are some quick answers to help guide the ol' search.
Beyond whatever it would take to get the car to be reliable on track (coolers, pads, etc), I'd probably do some simple stuff like slicks on spare wheels, shocks, and maybe bushings, just to sharpen it up a bit, but still liveable on the street.
Thanks all,
-Jake
been a lonnggggg time since my last post. I had a 97 C5 Z51 until 2002 which I autocrossed in Street-Mod2, and did some track days. Sold it to buy a Radical and have been in similar cars ever since.
I've been racing SCCA open wheel quite successfully for the past 10 years, but since SCCA racing is sort of dying off around Colorado, plus us having a new baby boy, I'm considering taking a step back into production cars that don't take quite as much time to keep in tip-top shape for the race track, and that I'll be able to drive day-to-day a bit for fun as well. Plus, getting tired of "racing" in a class of one.
What I'm trying to get a sense of (and doing lots of forum searching), is generally how Corvettes have come along in terms of track-readiness. For example, my C5 would overheat the oil, water, brakes, diff, and transmission after only a few short hard laps on track.
I see that some of the C6's (Z06 only?) came with diff/transmission coolers. How do they do with brakes, oil, water, etc?
I'm thinking I'll probably do some NASA Time Trials with the car just to scratch the competitive itch. Thinking of a C5 Z06, or a C6 Z06, or perhaps a C6 GS, (what with all the fear of the C6 Z06 heads going kerblammo).
Is the C6 Z06 dry sump really worth anything, or is it not a very effective system out on track once there are slicks and higher g's involved? I ask since shortly after I sold my C5, the new owner ran it low on oil and blew 'er up. In the open wheel cars, we always run dry sumps.
Put another way, I know a C5 Z06 would take a lot of extra bits to allow it to do any number of laps in a row without overheating everything, since I remember all the T1 kits (diff cooler, radiator, oil cooler, brake ducting, ball joint covers etc).
Are any of the C6's any better in this regard, or do most of the aftermarket additions still need to be made since they're not in place from the factory?
Will keep searching the forum, but thought I'd throw up a new post in case there are some quick answers to help guide the ol' search.
Beyond whatever it would take to get the car to be reliable on track (coolers, pads, etc), I'd probably do some simple stuff like slicks on spare wheels, shocks, and maybe bushings, just to sharpen it up a bit, but still liveable on the street.
Thanks all,
-Jake
I have no cooling issues with my C6Z. In mid 80 ambient temps the coolant will run right about 220 and the oil will run about 260. This is with a large stock oil cooler mounted in front of the AC condenser. The trans/diff cooler work great and you don't have to add any. C6Z51 and all wide body cars came with the trans/diff cooler. These were all lessons learned from the C5.
It is probably a good idea to change the brake calipers and rotors to something like stoptech as soon as you get your car. I have evolved from the stock units to Wilwood W6A in front and W4A in the rear. The Wilwoods work well, pad costs are lot more reasonable than pads that fit the stock calipers. The stock front rotors will go about 5 hard days before tracking. Stock rears about the same. At $100 ea shipped to your home they aren't a bad deal from a cost effectiveness standpoint. The stock setup is almost there but the calipers could be easier to work with and the padlet design just makes pad costs excessive.
Brake cooling can be improved. One thing that is easy to do is to buy some LG C6Z brake ducts and run hoses from them to Quantum spindle ducts. The LG ducts are just like the stockers except they have a finished 3 inch end on the outlet that allows you to attach a 3 inch hose. Some people bypass the stock brake duct inlets and plumb a hose from the front bumper air intake. Wide body cars get their cooling air from the front of the car Vs under it.
On earlier Zs GM didn't really recommend any special maintenance on the diff but on the 09s and newer cars they recommend changing the diff fluid after ea 24 hours of track usage. Since they didn't charge the hardware that recommendation may have come from some warranty experience.
Rear tie rods on the Z51 and wide body cars need to be greased after each track day.
It will cost more to run a C6Z than a C5Z. The cars are faster and you just go through more parts faster. Wheel bearings and tie rod ends will be things that wear just like they were on the C5s.
All in all they make a superior track car that will run with the highest dollar super cars.
Bill
#11
Drifting
With a vented hood and a larger radiator laid forward and sealed my car dropped 20 to 30 degrees of water temps.
#12
Le Mans Master
#13
Drifting
Thread Starter
Bill,
Great response, thank you. Great info about the Z51 and widebody cars getting the coolers, that's great to know.
test-driving a Z06 today or tomorrow to see if it gets the blood moving or not ;-)
Thanks for all the info everybody. Feel like I'm starting to get the lay of the land again just a bit.
-Jake
Great response, thank you. Great info about the Z51 and widebody cars getting the coolers, that's great to know.
test-driving a Z06 today or tomorrow to see if it gets the blood moving or not ;-)
Thanks for all the info everybody. Feel like I'm starting to get the lay of the land again just a bit.
-Jake
#15
Le Mans Master
Jim
#16
Drifting
The C6 and the C5 did not, in any way, need the same stuff. The C6 GS (standard), from the factory, is a very capable track day car. The C6Z 2009 and later is too. The base C6, not as much. The C5Z is a great track car, until you learn to drive, then the lack of any good coolers will kill it.
So, starting from the C6 GS, I'd add stainless steel brake lines and a harness bar. Install a Schroth four point harness (low effort) and wear a Hans or R3. Trailer hitch and a tire trailer with stickies. Use real brake pads, one piece, of your compound of choice. Ditch the drilled rotors for something else. Pretty easy.
So, starting from the C6 GS, I'd add stainless steel brake lines and a harness bar. Install a Schroth four point harness (low effort) and wear a Hans or R3. Trailer hitch and a tire trailer with stickies. Use real brake pads, one piece, of your compound of choice. Ditch the drilled rotors for something else. Pretty easy.
#18
Racer
New Member resurrecting an old thread.
I am considering a C6 Z51 as my HPDE car. I have 20 or 25 track days under my belt and just stared running in the intermediate group.
Any suggestions on "Must-do mods" other than track pads and hight temp brake fluid?
I am considering a C6 Z51 as my HPDE car. I have 20 or 25 track days under my belt and just stared running in the intermediate group.
Any suggestions on "Must-do mods" other than track pads and hight temp brake fluid?
Last edited by Bossdog; 05-31-2016 at 10:23 AM.
#19
Intermediate
I don't think the LS2's had as much of an issue, something with the head design for the fuel system in the LS3.
Bought a modded C6Z to replace it. Much more suited to the track.
#20
Racer
With my LS3 Z51 I had trouble keeping the oil cool, which I believe is the reason they came out with the Grand Sport. Car was a blast, but I was worried I might grenade the thing with 300 degree oil. Pressure would only read around 30 psi as well.
I don't think the LS2's had as much of an issue, something with the head design for the fuel system in the LS3.
Bought a modded C6Z to replace it. Much more suited to the track.
I don't think the LS2's had as much of an issue, something with the head design for the fuel system in the LS3.
Bought a modded C6Z to replace it. Much more suited to the track.
Last edited by Bossdog; 05-31-2016 at 02:25 PM.