How to fasten Smart Strings tool to C6
#1
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How to fasten Smart Strings tool to C6
Just purchased a Smart Strings tool to make it easier to measure toe when I am doing alignments. Problem is I can't figure out how to attach the bars to the rear of the car. Has anybody figured out how to do it? I really don't want to send them back to the vendor.
Bill
Bill
#2
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Just purchased a Smart Strings tool to make it easier to measure toe when I am doing alignments. Problem is I can't figure out how to attach the bars to the rear of the car. Has anybody figured out how to do it? I really don't want to send them back to the vendor.
Bill
Bill
#3
Racer
Bill,
I attached them to my '07 by opening the hatch and using the lip opening. Not ideal, but I was able to get a robust attachment point and the strings onto the rear axle centerline.
This is the best photo I have... at least it shows that it is possible, lol:
Smart strings front attachment on C6
I attached them to my '07 by opening the hatch and using the lip opening. Not ideal, but I was able to get a robust attachment point and the strings onto the rear axle centerline.
This is the best photo I have... at least it shows that it is possible, lol:
Smart strings front attachment on C6
Last edited by parsonsj; 09-11-2014 at 11:03 AM.
#4
Safety Car
Just purchased a Smart Strings tool to make it easier to measure toe when I am doing alignments. Problem is I can't figure out how to attach the bars to the rear of the car. Has anybody figured out how to do it? I really don't want to send them back to the vendor.
Bill
Bill
#5
Race Director
That's more/less how I do the c5z, just hook it over the trunk opening lip, it looks iffy but it stays there ok, even when rolling/bouncing the car.
Actually I put mine one "step" higher & it's good. Try whever it seems to grip best on yours.
I suppose (just thought of this) you could use velcro hook/loop to make that more secure as all the adjusting is at the other end. A little tab of velcro & just leave it there as a marker where the pole goes next time.
I may do that.
Actually I put mine one "step" higher & it's good. Try whever it seems to grip best on yours.
I suppose (just thought of this) you could use velcro hook/loop to make that more secure as all the adjusting is at the other end. A little tab of velcro & just leave it there as a marker where the pole goes next time.
I may do that.
Last edited by froggy47; 09-11-2014 at 12:20 PM.
#6
Strings. How does it work? Do you have to find the car centerline then mount the jig front and rear based off the centerline somehow? It seems that strings made sense before lasers were cheap and plentiful.
#8
Race Director
Here is a RedBull F1 car getting a string alignment.
https://i.imgur.com/3WXBmc5.jpg
I suppose if laser was better, they could afford it.
https://i.imgur.com/3WXBmc5.jpg
I suppose if laser was better, they could afford it.
#9
Here is a RedBull F1 car getting a string alignment.
https://i.imgur.com/3WXBmc5.jpg
I suppose if laser was better, they could afford it.
https://i.imgur.com/3WXBmc5.jpg
I suppose if laser was better, they could afford it.
#10
Safety Car
Agreed! You and I do it completely differently. I don't know if one way is better than another, more accurate, more fool proof, easier, or cheaper. Are you interested in doing a compare and contrast thread and maybe we both can benefit from it? I always want to learn a better way or take elements of another system and make mine better. But we will be civil for the sake of learning not a "my way is better than your way" argument. What do you think?
what do you do different?
#12
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I will start the discussion. I have been using toe plates to set the toe at both front and rear. I start with the rear toe and get it close then I lay my Sears 24 inch laser level on top of the plate and across the tire. I have a jackstand with a measuring stick (marked on both sides) taped to it and install it into the front hub. Then I adjust the laser until the beam is hitting the measuring stick mark down the reading and move the laser and measuring stick to the other side of the car. I mark down that reading and then adjust the rear toe to move the wheels so the thrust angle is as close as I can possibly get it. The problem being that each time I take a measurement I have to move the toe plates and tapes, move the jackstand and get the level out of the way and then reassemble the rig to take another measurement. When I do the front I do exactly the same thing except I aim the laser back at the rear wheels and make sure the steering wheel is centered when I take the measurements. This tells me how much I have to tweak the front toe adjustments to get the steering wheel centered and for the total toe setting I want. The process is quite iterative requiring adjustments each step of the way. However, it works quite well.
I wanted the smart strings so I could get a measure of the toe at each wheel and be able to reduce the number of times I have to make adjustments. At 72 it is getting harder to do all the ups and downs to get the car setup. If I could afford an alignment rack in the garage I would have one.
Bill
I wanted the smart strings so I could get a measure of the toe at each wheel and be able to reduce the number of times I have to make adjustments. At 72 it is getting harder to do all the ups and downs to get the car setup. If I could afford an alignment rack in the garage I would have one.
Bill
#14
Race Director
Let's not ruin Bill's thread here. Let's take the compare and contrast thread to here. Sorry for thread drift Bill!
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-contrast.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-contrast.html